Brake Problem

I got in my car after work, put my foot on the brake with normal pedal travel, then turned on the car and the pedal went to the floor, and braking capability tanked to near zero. I grandma'd it home and on the way there the brake warning light at the bottom of the tach came on. The ABS light is not on though. So, pedal travel to the floor, hardly any brake application, and the brake warning light. What do you think, master cylinder went out?

Was the resovoir empty? If it was its time to check for leaks! it could be anything lines, hoses, calipers, wheel cylinders, banjo bolts, etc.

Havn't checked yet--didn't want to piss off the neighbors with a bunch of hood clanking in the wee of night. But it does look like something leaked on the pavement underwhere the booster/cylinder would be, although the stuff on the ground is colorless.

Let us know what you find!!

It is leaking brake fluid from a line, I'm guessing. Brake fluid is dripping off part of the unibody right ahead of where the front passengers left foot would be. (I can't actually see where the fluid is leaking from, havn't been under the car yet) How much would a new line cost?

lines are cheap but you have to bend yourself.most lines are cant kink so you should'nt have a problem just no sharp bends.they come straight in different lengths so you'll need to measure.good luck

I haven't run into a line leaking in that area as of yet. I would almost lean towards the possibility that you may be on the right track with the master cylinder leaking and your seeing the fluid thats running down the booster? Should be fairly easy to see if this is where the fluid is comming from!

Well, it's the line that runs to the front brakes (corroded out right after the heat shielding). The kinking in that thing is ridiculous, much less trying to feed it in. I don't have the experience to pull it off, and my dad (ex-mechanic) said it'd be tough to pull off a perfect bending of new pipe, and then we'd need a hoist to get it in with any ease. So a trip to dealer is in store; bless Michigan's salted winter roads!

Remember it doesn't have to look pretty it just has to work! I commend you on knowing when a project is over your head and seeking a professional repair. Especially with brake work a lot of things can and do go wrong. Theirs no sense in getting in a pickle if you don't have to.

I would think you would find the repair to be pretty reasonable as far as cost.

Hehe, yeah. Worked out to just over $200 for the brake line replacement, not bad considering its a Chevrolet dealership, GM Goodwrenched up the was. I don't know if it not having a car combined with occasionally driving a Mercury Snoooze-Sable, but the brakes seem tighter than before. Whole chassis seems a bit nicer in fact. So I'm guessing they did a little bit extra for me, not to mention they reglued my window switch panel no charge! If it weren't for the dough I was paying out, it'd feel like a warranty job.

So for any one who asks: a rusted right front brake line replacement is like $200 through a certified shop.

Good to hear and the bite wasn't to bad!

brake line: $5 (GM custom bent $50)

Bleeding your brakes: Priceless

Haha, just buy a power bleeder for 60, the GM custom for 50 and youve still spent less money.

Plus, I finally know someone with a power bleeder so I can borrow it!

This poster should not be ridiculed because of the decision he/she made. $200 dollars is pretty fair IMO based on the fact that brake lines get get ugly in a hurry. A simple line could end up with additional lines due to fittings breaking. If this had happened, then what. Realize your in over your head after things are broken? Now you have a disabled vehicle that you can't drive to the repair shop because it has zero brakes so it has to be towed. Tack on another $80 to your bill.

I'd much rather see somebody who has doubts about a repair throw in the towel before attempting it rather than tearing into it and ending up with a bigger problem. Theres no shame in that!! Vehicles are become increasingly more difficult to do the "simplest" of repairs.

Well, Im sorry if I came across as ridiculing, I didnt intend for it to come off that way.

I never got one of those reverse flow vac pumps to ever bleed correctly. =a waste of money.

Tube bender: $5-7
Double flaring tool: $20-60
Tube cutter $10-20

It neat when your custom bent tube comes in that large box.

how many people don't bleed their brakes, allow water in the system(brake fluid attracts water/humidity) and let the lines rust. 95%+

Bleeder wrench: $3
Bleeder tube: $1
See thru bottle: $.10
Brake fluid: $1-2 a pint

=cheaper to bleed them (note: this is a 2 per operation)