cam kit?
gorgepr
09-04-2008, 01:03 PM
hi there im looking to buy a cam for my 94 lt1, the one that I liked most was a comp cams 268 it will cost arround 265 dollars, this cam was designed for 1.6 rockers, so I looked arround and found a set for 139 dollars, and the set of valve springs that the cam asked for cost 259 dollars, so guys I need your advice is this a good buy or im wasting my money, cuz I have this money for the car but I dont know if is worth it
Genopsyde
09-04-2008, 01:33 PM
you need to base you cam selection on the other mods done to the car, especially stall speed and rear end gear ratio. you should call comp cams and a tech will help you select the proper cam for you application.
gorgepr
09-04-2008, 01:41 PM
guess Ill have to call them but thank anyways w I already have hooker long tubes, custom exhaust, flowmaster muffler, no cats, I think that the car already had some head work done, 3.73 gears, and after the cam is installed im taking it to reprogram
Genopsyde
09-04-2008, 02:39 PM
have you looked into the LT4 hotcam or similar grind cams?
gorgepr
09-04-2008, 02:53 PM
yes I've looked, but I want something bigger than the lt4 hot cam, the thing I don't like about what I listed here is the valve spring price or are they really that good to be so expensive, they are comp cams beehive springs
Morley
09-04-2008, 11:31 PM
Yes, the Beehive springs are $$$$$. They are "special" springs so they will cost more, but they are sometimes the only spring one can use without expensive machine work to the heads for larger "normal" springs.
And yes, the LT4 hot cam is ...meh...so-so. Not really for BIG HP numbers.
And yes, the LT4 hot cam is ...meh...so-so. Not really for BIG HP numbers.
gorgepr
09-04-2008, 11:44 PM
here are the cam specs rpm operating range 1800-5800, duration @.050'' 218 224, valve lift with 1.6 rockers .570 .565, lobe separation 113 I think it is a good adition to my car
Morley
09-05-2008, 01:57 AM
With those lift numbers you'd either need larger springs that would require head machiening or the Beehives. The Beehives would be the cheaper chioce, once you factor in new head gaskets, intake gaskets, down time and the cost of the machine work. OH, and those rockers you looked at for $139....might not be a good idea. Remember with that much lift and those springs, you are going to be asking a LOT of the lifters, and ordinary aluminum roller rockers probably won't be up to the task.
If I were dumping that much money in the valvetrain I would opt for these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=cca-1302-16 COMP Cams Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms at $286 a set, they ain't cheap but they are STRONG. Also, remember you need to replace the push rods and I would even go so far as replacing the lifters, No need to go crazy on those, GM did it for you, get the LS7 lifters.
Oh, and don't forget ARP rocker studs.
If I were dumping that much money in the valvetrain I would opt for these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=cca-1302-16 COMP Cams Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms at $286 a set, they ain't cheap but they are STRONG. Also, remember you need to replace the push rods and I would even go so far as replacing the lifters, No need to go crazy on those, GM did it for you, get the LS7 lifters.
Oh, and don't forget ARP rocker studs.
gorgepr
09-07-2008, 04:18 PM
those are the valve springs im looking at the beehive, the rocekr arms i just found the ones that the cam requires, but why do I have to change the head gaskets???
Morley
09-07-2008, 05:02 PM
those are the valve springs im looking at the beehive, the rocekr arms i just found the ones that the cam requires, but why do I have to change the head gaskets???
You said you looked around and found rockers for $139. If they were roller rockers, and are that cheap they probably won't hold up. I'd get steel ones.
The head gaskets and such were for IF you didn't go with beehives but instead opted for larger "conventional" springs. Those would require removing the heads to do the machine work.
You said you looked around and found rockers for $139. If they were roller rockers, and are that cheap they probably won't hold up. I'd get steel ones.
The head gaskets and such were for IF you didn't go with beehives but instead opted for larger "conventional" springs. Those would require removing the heads to do the machine work.
gorgepr
09-08-2008, 05:02 PM
ohh ok I'm going with the beehives, but how much improvment should I be specting with this combination??, and yes I found another set of rockers they aren't full roller but I'll go with them
Morley
09-09-2008, 01:56 AM
Well, once the PCM is reprogrammed for the new cam I'd guess you'd be seeing a 50-80 HP increase, depending on what mods you already have.
gorgepr
09-09-2008, 02:09 AM
I belive that the heads had some work already done, I have hooker long tubes headers a full costum exhaust, Im working on the transmision, I got a underdrive pulley, 160 termostat, costum cold intake, and im looking foward to change to a set of 28 or 30lb injectors
Morley
09-10-2008, 01:22 AM
I belive that the heads had some work already done, I have hooker long tubes headers a full costum exhaust, Im working on the transmision, I got a underdrive pulley, 160 termostat, costum cold intake, and im looking foward to change to a set of 28 or 30lb injectors
That is a pretty good start. A couple things... The 160* T-Stat, I would swap it out for a 180*. The 160* is kind of close to the temp for switching from open loop to closed loop, and modern EFI engines like/need to run hotter than the older muscle cars.
You may want to look into a larger throttle body, 52mm. This will help feed air to that hungry new cam. I wouldn't "buy" a new throttle body though, There are people (on E bay) that will charge you about $150 to swap your old throttle body for one they have bored out, added new throttle blades and needle bearings on the shaft. I've done (bore and bearinged) a few of the TPI throttle bodies myself and put them in my cars and it makes a nice difference.
That is a pretty good start. A couple things... The 160* T-Stat, I would swap it out for a 180*. The 160* is kind of close to the temp for switching from open loop to closed loop, and modern EFI engines like/need to run hotter than the older muscle cars.
You may want to look into a larger throttle body, 52mm. This will help feed air to that hungry new cam. I wouldn't "buy" a new throttle body though, There are people (on E bay) that will charge you about $150 to swap your old throttle body for one they have bored out, added new throttle blades and needle bearings on the shaft. I've done (bore and bearinged) a few of the TPI throttle bodies myself and put them in my cars and it makes a nice difference.
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