Front end shuddering
MrStupid
09-02-2008, 06:43 AM
:banghead: I have a 95 Grand Caravan with 3.3 motor and 4 speed OD auto Trans W/120,000 miles on it. When I got it 1½ yrs ago (101k miles) it had a very slight front end shudder when accelerating and turning left at freeway speeds.
Now (20k mi later) The shudder has become quite noticeable and occurs regardless of steering direction. When accelerating the shudder can get pretty bad at times (The harder the acceleration the worse the shudder)
If I lift off the gas and ease back into it the shudder usually eases quite a bit. Over the last year I have replaced all 4 tires and both front rims (due to other problems) and have tried several tire combinations with no noticeable change.
Does anybody have some idea of what my problem could be so that I won’t have to suffer the expense of trial and error parts replacement? Thanks in advance.:confused:
Now (20k mi later) The shudder has become quite noticeable and occurs regardless of steering direction. When accelerating the shudder can get pretty bad at times (The harder the acceleration the worse the shudder)
If I lift off the gas and ease back into it the shudder usually eases quite a bit. Over the last year I have replaced all 4 tires and both front rims (due to other problems) and have tried several tire combinations with no noticeable change.
Does anybody have some idea of what my problem could be so that I won’t have to suffer the expense of trial and error parts replacement? Thanks in advance.:confused:
RIP
09-02-2008, 11:59 AM
3 guesses:
> Wrong or dirty transmission fluid or clogged filter -- DIY $50 -- Shop $80 - $120 (often on discount sale)
> Transmission Control Module software needs updating -- $100 (shop only)
> Worn constant velocity joint and probably a passenger side inboard joint = axle change -- DIY $50 -- Shop $150 - $200
If you hear clicking when making slow speed turns it indicates a worn outboard cv joint. In an empty parking lot, open the windows and make slow speed left and right turns. If you hear clicking in a left turn, the passenger side outboard cv joint is bad. Hear it turning right? The drivers side outboard cv joint is bad. Anytime a CV joint is bad it's just as easy and costs about the same to change the entire axle with both cv joints. Check for cracks in the cv joint boots. They crack open allowing all the grease to spin out. There goes the joint.
> Wrong or dirty transmission fluid or clogged filter -- DIY $50 -- Shop $80 - $120 (often on discount sale)
> Transmission Control Module software needs updating -- $100 (shop only)
> Worn constant velocity joint and probably a passenger side inboard joint = axle change -- DIY $50 -- Shop $150 - $200
If you hear clicking when making slow speed turns it indicates a worn outboard cv joint. In an empty parking lot, open the windows and make slow speed left and right turns. If you hear clicking in a left turn, the passenger side outboard cv joint is bad. Hear it turning right? The drivers side outboard cv joint is bad. Anytime a CV joint is bad it's just as easy and costs about the same to change the entire axle with both cv joints. Check for cracks in the cv joint boots. They crack open allowing all the grease to spin out. There goes the joint.
MrStupid
09-16-2008, 01:28 AM
3 guesses:
> Wrong or dirty transmission fluid or clogged filter -- DIY $50 -- Shop $80 - $120 (often on discount sale)
> Transmission Control Module software needs updating -- $100 (shop only)
> Worn constant velocity joint and probably a passenger side inboard joint = axle change -- DIY $50 -- Shop $150 - $200
If you hear clicking when making slow speed turns it indicates a worn outboard cv joint. In an empty parking lot, open the windows and make slow speed left and right turns. If you hear clicking in a left turn, the passenger side outboard cv joint is bad. Hear it turning right? The drivers side outboard cv joint is bad. Anytime a CV joint is bad it's just as easy and costs about the same to change the entire axle with both cv joints. Check for cracks in the cv joint boots. They crack open allowing all the grease to spin out. There goes the joint.
OK lets see Trans fluid is ATF-4 (always) although the Trans does leak I wouldn’t see why that would matter.
Both outer CV boots look fine with no sigh of having spun any grease out and the CV's don’t tic-click when making tight turns in either direction. I do have to say that I don’t know if the CV's have ever been replaced or serviced since I bought the van used.
Some time ago I remember having read a post here about some one with the same basic problem and if I recall correctly something was said about the possibility that the half shafts (axles w/cv's attached) might be the problem although I haven’t been able to find the exact post.
Since it isn’t that expensive to replace both half shafts ($70 left & $65 right)
I figure that Ill start there when I find the time.
I must admit that since I posted my question that the out of balance feeling problem has diminished considerably (having done nothing on my part)
Thanks for your help :licka:
> Wrong or dirty transmission fluid or clogged filter -- DIY $50 -- Shop $80 - $120 (often on discount sale)
> Transmission Control Module software needs updating -- $100 (shop only)
> Worn constant velocity joint and probably a passenger side inboard joint = axle change -- DIY $50 -- Shop $150 - $200
If you hear clicking when making slow speed turns it indicates a worn outboard cv joint. In an empty parking lot, open the windows and make slow speed left and right turns. If you hear clicking in a left turn, the passenger side outboard cv joint is bad. Hear it turning right? The drivers side outboard cv joint is bad. Anytime a CV joint is bad it's just as easy and costs about the same to change the entire axle with both cv joints. Check for cracks in the cv joint boots. They crack open allowing all the grease to spin out. There goes the joint.
OK lets see Trans fluid is ATF-4 (always) although the Trans does leak I wouldn’t see why that would matter.
Both outer CV boots look fine with no sigh of having spun any grease out and the CV's don’t tic-click when making tight turns in either direction. I do have to say that I don’t know if the CV's have ever been replaced or serviced since I bought the van used.
Some time ago I remember having read a post here about some one with the same basic problem and if I recall correctly something was said about the possibility that the half shafts (axles w/cv's attached) might be the problem although I haven’t been able to find the exact post.
Since it isn’t that expensive to replace both half shafts ($70 left & $65 right)
I figure that Ill start there when I find the time.
I must admit that since I posted my question that the out of balance feeling problem has diminished considerably (having done nothing on my part)
Thanks for your help :licka:
Scrapper
09-16-2008, 01:47 AM
raise the hood and put knee on bumber and jounce it you may see upper bearing plates are worn out or both of the front struts are waren out. does you sterring wheel shake at higher speeds? or can you tell if its in the back also?
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