97 geo metro stopped running

Hi! Guys got a ques. for ya I was driving down the road the other day and the geo just stopped running like you cut the key switch off. The car was running perfect no problems what so ever before this happened. towed the car home and check for fire to the plugs and it has it, checked to see if the fuel pump was working and it is. you can pour gas in the tbi and it will run for a min. so I know the problem is a fuel issue but I don't know if its the injector or ecm or some other senser. The injector is not pulsing or spraying fuel.
Any idea's would be great :banghead:

You will have to troubleshoot this issue but it is easy. Be sure you have plenty of fuel in the car. Do you hear the pump build pressure when you turn the ignition on? If not you may have a bad fuel pump which is common but be sure to check your relay first to be sure it is clicking on also check any related fuses. If all that checks out be sure you are getting fuel pressure to the injector. You could have a clogged filter but it's usually not the case in my experience. If you do have proper fuel pressure on the line at the injector and fuel is not being ejected from the injector you could have a faulty injector but be sure to check it's relay and any related fuses. Good luck...

Also: Is the check engine light on when you crank it with starting fluid? You may want to scan it for other issues.

I have a half tank of fuel with 25 psi at the tbi unit when you pour gas in tbi it runs smooth like it always has and yes the service engine light is on

Scan it to find out what is causing it to come on and it may lead you to your problem.

SES light should tell you the problem or at least give you a good clue. I'm betting crankshaft or cam position sensor.

If you have fuel pressure, and it runs when you prime the TBI unit, I would check for power at the injector with a noide light. If you have a chain store parts store (Checker, AutoZone, O'Rilies, Pep Boys) they will usualy loan you special tools. You have to pay for them but, you get your money back when you take the tool back. To test, you'll need to find the wires that go to the injector and unplug them. Plug the noide light into the wireharness and crank the engine over. The light should flash. If it dosen't, dubble check your fuses, power conections and grounds. If this all checks good it could have a bad compuetor, but it I would be suprised if this was the case. Get a Haynes manual for good wiring diagrams.

The niode light is not flashing when you plug it in the wiring harness and spin the engine over plus the pcm is not throwing any codes

Have you checked your throttle position sensor?

I know this doesn't fit your symptoms, but it takes just a minute to check to make sure your timing belt has not snapped.....

Anytime someone says there car just died, I always fuel, spark and timing belt first.

If it runs when he pours gas in the intake the timing belt is intact.

Yes that is a true statement, that's why I stated that it doesn't fit his symptoms. But sometimes the belt will slip a tooth or two or partially shred.
It's an easy check, and it will rule out one of the more fequent cuases of a car just dying.

I remember one guy on this forum that had the teeth part of the belt shred off, thus the belt would slip and barely run. It took him awhile to diagnose it cause he still had fuel and spark..

anyway, it's just a thought and would be on my checklist

True, it is always worth checking but if no fuel is coming out of the injector at all and it will start and run when giving it a few squirts of gas the timing belt can be reasonably ruled out.

Good point!

Hope your not at work like me.

Hi guys I got a scaning tool today and pluged it into the car and it is not throwing any codes would the tps sensor not let the car run without throwing a code and what does the car do if the pcm is bad. Plus the car has a distributor where would the cam sensor be if it had one I thought car's that did not have a distributor were the one's with a cam sensor. This thing is kicking my butt and I know its something simple I'am just lost when it comes to the newer car's a carb would be nice. :banghead: I sure do miss the money i save in gas with this car:mad:

Yeah, The TPS should throw a code. I don't think there is a cam position sensor. I'm not sure about your 97 but my 98 has the crankshaft position sensor located directly under the timing pulley on the passenger side of the oil pan. Here is a pic that may help you locate it.
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l375/doug2060/E--RepairInformation-Engine-TimingB.jpg

I may be off on this with the newer 1.0L but as I recall the CMS is located in the distributor on the 1994 XFI 1.0L. Just a thought if it runs good with fresh gas what about possible fuel contamination?

Yep, There is an angle sensor in the distributor. I doubt it's bad gas if nothing at all is coming from the injector.

Cam sensor is in the distributor, crank sensor is where Doug's drawing says. There's a fuse under the hood for Fuel Injection.

guy's here is where I'am having a problem some of this sensors have to do with the timing of the engine the ign. and some are fuel related like a cam position sensor,tps and of course every one of them is over a hundred bucks it just seems like there would be a way to narrow down the problem. And where is the fuel injection fuse under the hood, kinda a big area to be looking:confused:

I just did a Crankcase sensor (CRS) and Cam Shaft sensor (CMS) on my Chrysler 3.3L with similar symptoms your having. Ive never done it on my 1.0L so someone correct me if Im off base.

CMS and CRS tells the ECM things are turning, when it gets magnetic pulses the engine is running so it keeps the fuel and ignition on. When either one of the sensors fail you will get a total engine cutout as if the car was shut down.

CMS and CRS are sealed coils in my way of thinking not prone to failure in themselves. In my case and again on a Chrysler the CMS sensor failed because of corrosion in the connecting plug. The CRS failed because it lost its air gap and was rubbed through the end shorting the coil internally. In both cases the reason for failure was visible.

I would think one of the car parts stores could check the TPS or you could get specs to check with multi meter as it is likely just a coil with progressive resistance coil that increases or decreases resistance as the accelerator moves the shaft

Sensors can be checked with a multimeter or a scan tool, the procedure is in your service manual. The fuse is very cleverly hidden in the fusebox, don't know what those Suzuki engineers were thinking.

Checked the tps as best i could it has 0.67 when the shaft closed and it at 3.17k ohms when fully open. Next ques is when I was checking the sensor I noticed that there are four terminal in the sensor and only three wires in the harness and the hayes manual shows four wires Its supposed to be grn/yllw idea speed i think. the others are power,signal input in and out

Check for spark, if you don't have spark either my money's on the cam sensor.

If you do have spark, and no response from the noid light, first check for voltage between the yellow injector connector wire and ground with the ignition on. If no voltage, check for voltage between the white and blue fuel injector resistor connector wire and ground with the ignition on. If no voltage, bench test the Main Relay. If you do have voltage to the fuel injector resistor, replace the fuel injector resistor.

If you do have voltage between the fuel injector connector yellow wire and ground, check for continuity between the yellow and black fuel injector connector wire and pin 12 of the C1 PCM connector. If you have continuity, replace the PCM.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/62604315-1.gif

-MechanicMatt

A TPS would not do this btw.

-MechanicMatt

AND FWIW, the PCM on all metros gets its fuel and spark signal from the cam sensor. The crank sensor was implemented in OBD-II to improve spark timing resolution. A metro will start and run with a disconnected crank sensor. It will not run with a disconnected cam sensor.

-MechanicMatt

Then it is most likely either the cam sensor or injector. Have you tried the injector yet?

Injector resistance should read between 1.95 and 2.3 ohms via Alldatadiy.com.

-MechanicMatt