Cooling And Knock

Hey guys, ok so i have 2 problems.

one, i have a problem keeping the engine temp down. engine is rebuilt w/ forged internals, and stage 4 turbo kit, all done pro, and has a tune, i run about 22 psi.

oh and its a 97 eclipse gs

its fine, and this isnt a HUGE problem but, if i still still at idle for a long period of time...maybe few mins...the needle for the engine temp gauge begins to rise..., and when i take off itll go back down to normal of coarse. but how can i further reduce the engine temp..? are there any methods of doing this for street tuning? i have a racing radiator...and like i said its not a huge problem, but id still like to address it.

and two, ive noticed a knock when under load(or accelerating in a turn) and when the engines cold...a little...once the engines warmed up it doenst do it much, unless like i said i boost it hard in a turn...is this fixable? or do i just have to live with it..?

Hey guys, ok so i have 2 problems.

if i still still at idle for a long period of time...maybe few mins...the needle for the engine temp gauge begins to rise..., and when i take off itll go back down to normal of coarse.

You have two elect. radiator fans.....do they both work like they should?

Hey guys, ok so i have 2 problems.

one, i have a problem keeping the engine temp down. engine is rebuilt w/ forged internals, and stage 4 turbo kit, all done pro, and has a tune, i run about 22 psi.

oh and its a 97 eclipse gs

its fine, and this isnt a HUGE problem but, if i still still at idle for a long period of time...maybe few mins...the needle for the engine temp gauge begins to rise..., and when i take off itll go back down to normal of coarse. but how can i further reduce the engine temp..? are there any methods of doing this for street tuning? i have a racing radiator...and like i said its not a huge problem, but id still like to address it.

and two, ive noticed a knock when under load(or accelerating in a turn) and when the engines cold...a little...once the engines warmed up it doenst do it much, unless like i said i boost it hard in a turn...is this fixable? or do i just have to live with it..?

You need 2 fans running nearly constantly for something like this. Hell with my little t3/4 setup on the ESi, it would start to over heat with 1 10" fan. Now have a 10" and a 12". You might what to consider wiring them up to either be on all the time or to a switch where you can control via inside the car to turn on/off.

I'm going to guess that you're using a rather large FMIC too then right? You may want to make a little air dam under the car to scoop the air around the FMIC to the radiator. And is your A/C still in? If it is, and you don't use it at all, rip the core out and that will lower temps quite a bit.

May also want to get some aftermarket coolant, like Redline Water or whatever they call it. Usually running that with a slight water mix will lower temps a couple degrees.

The knock sounds like it's a suspension issue. Check all the ball joints and pull on them for looseness and movement. Also try wiggling the tire when it's raised up to check for movement. Lastly, try compressing the shocks and see if they pop when doing that. Does it come from a specific side? Was the lower control arm recall done to the car at any point?

Is the knock coming from the motor?

The knock is def. coming from the engine...for those of you who really care to help a fellow tuner in need, heres a short story.

So I was trying to drive down a path(not gravel or highway) and heard what sounded like my underdside scraping the ground a little, but then I got back onto the road, and drove about 15 mins b4 I realized my oil light was on, and I pretty much knew why...I was right, my oil filter had hit the ground and gotten damaged, I leaked oil fast, but almost as soon as the light came on and I realized my engine temp was rising fast I obviously shut the engine off immediately, and pulled over, fixed it after a few phonecalls, and it was just the filter that was damaged.

Now, the car runs like a sewing machine, never fails, REALLY great condition for a 97'. But, could that have had anything to do with it knocking only sometimes?

Here is when I hear it knock:
1)when engines cold
2)if i slowly iron out 1st gr or hol dthe accelerator steady in this gear
3)if i put the accelrator down while turning left I can hear it start to do it...

what is the problem haha...please help me there, its my biggest concern

And I actually have a side mount intercooler, so the radiator gets plenty of air, and I was going to go today to a body shop and see if i could have a vent cut out of the side of my front bumper to have air hitting the ic a little bit better, and a little for looks of coarse

I have a c&r racing radiator with one fan...guess I should upgrade to two fans...also I plan to get a carbon fiber hood, to relieve some under hood temp. this will help a little correct?

Also, do you know anything about the oil coolers, and would this be a good buy for me? For my problem...

One more question. I have JE pistons, total seal rings, crower rods, and im able to run 22 psi on my tune, more if i upgrade the injectors. It made 320hp at the dyno when it was tuned. I was thinking of upping the boost a little, and was curious as to whether or not any of you know from experience, and based on my setup, how much more my engine(now) can hold, and what I would have to do next to further strengthen it(in other words, the next step for me). A buddy of mine who owns an evo tried running around 20 psi on his evo w/ a boost controller, only a few psi over stock, and blew the engine. He claims he doesn't understand how im able to run so much boost on this engine...could someone inform me correctly of its potentials? Are these engines weak? Should I be extra cautious for any particular reason? I had a civic, got an eclipse, and am new to dsm...sorry..=/ But these are questions I cant seem to get answered elsewhere.

I apologize if my questions sound retorical, But im obesessive compulsive and ALWAYS have to ask and doublecheck myself...so that im sure what im doing is right. Also, sorry so long........

Thanks!

Also, for further reference, here is my setup

HahnRaceCraft Stage IV super 16g turbo w/ side mount intercooler - Hahn turbo manifold - 240cc injectors - Hahn Portfueler system w/ intake spacer, secondary fuel rail w/ 400cc injectors - 1:1 aeromotive fuel pressure regulator - fully programmable fuel controller(pretuned) - walbro 255lph fuel pump - Hahn fuel mapper - 3000gt bov - JE pistons(8.6:1) - Total Seal piston rings - Eagle rods - AEM synthetic filter - C & R racing radiator w/ high flow fan - Hahn 3'' downpipe & cat - THermal Engineering 3'' cat-back - Clutchmasters stage IV clutch - Eibach sportline progressive lowering springs - Front Eibach offset bushings(camber adustment) - KYB GR2 struts - Front & rear strut bars - Lower rear tie bar - GReddy profec type s boost controller - autometer boost & electronic fuel pressure gauges - Apexi universal turbo timer - Pioneer mp3 head unit & speakers - odyssey PC680 battery - Front Powerslot drilled & slotted rotors

Again, all help is very appreciated!

The oil light comes on when your oil pressure goes less than 5psi I believe. So Im better your damaged the motor. I would drain the oil and look for metal, also you may want to pull the oil pan and check your bearings.

Ok, so no metal in the oil pan, im guessing i was supposed to look for little flakey pieces of metal correct?

Well either way, all is quiet on that front.

And id like to add, i didnt mean to make it look obvious that thats my problem with the motor, the whole oil thing, bc somehow or anohter i just dont think that did any real damage, bc the thing runs like a sewing machine...i mean it couldnt be better...EXCEPT the few rare times when it does knock...and im wondering if its too small of a problem to be worried about...

I was planning in the future to strengthen the motor even more, but had several questions.

If I plan on running nitrous oxide, what further modifications would you recommend I invest in, based on my setup now, and keep in mind im already running 22 psi which I keep hearing is already way too much for my motor as it is? can someone clarify? Well, I was htinking, if i work on the head, it would be a good opportunity to go ahead and try and diagnose the knock...but ill cross that bridge when i get there...

As for the heating issue, I believe im gonna try some high temp coolant(bc mine disapeers almost as soon as i put it in the resevoir. Also im gonna order a carbon fiber hood to vent the heat a little....also, i do have only one fan on my radiator...on the right side of it, guess it wouldnt hurt to put another one on there...

anyways, hey thanks man for helping me out, and further help is greatly appreciated!

If I plan on running nitrous oxide, what further modifications would you recommend I invest in, based on my setup now, and keep in mind im already running 22 psi which I keep hearing is already way too much for my motor as it is? can someone clarify? Well, I was htinking, if i work on the head, it would be a good opportunity to go ahead and try and diagnose the knock...but ill cross that bridge when i get there...

As for the heating issue, I believe im gonna try some high temp coolant(bc mine disapeers almost as soon as i put it in the resevoir. Also im gonna order a carbon fiber hood to vent the heat a little....also, i do have only one fan on my radiator...on the right side of it, guess it wouldnt hurt to put another one on there...

Couple things...
With the setup you have right now it should be able to hold quite a bit of power... depending on how everything was assembled. 22psi is a lot, but if it was built with care and experience, it should be fine. Don't worry about the head... stock is fine. Maybe some port work but it's really not necessary. Most stock heads flow too well to begin with.

So your coolant is disappearing and you're having overheating problems eh? Where is the coolant going? Sounds your head gasket may be shot or going and coolant is leaking into the motor. That will need to be taken care of first. Do a compression test too and post up some numbers. When you drained the oil, was there any coolant mixed in with it?

Vented hoods reduce the ambient temps under the hood. Always a plus.

Lastly, could I see a dyno graph?

Your motor is built to take a lot of power. Your pistons/rod combo should take over 500hp. So 22psi is alot but as long as your not knockin you will be fine. What do you need nitrous for? You already have no traction.

If the knock isin't that bad then ignore it untill it gets worse or something fails. The only problem is that other damage may occur. As far as coolant goes, do you have any leaks? The car would smoke if your burning coolant.

Thats all good to know, and thank you so much. It makes me feel a lot better to know I can handle much more than ive got.

Umm, heres the thing, I built a civic up myself, in automotive school, and when I sold that I bought the eclipse, most of the work already done. I dont have the dyno results, but the previous owner may, ill look and post it if i can. But I have no doubts, it runs like a scaulded dog, and I took it to a local track and walked away from an evo w/ a few mods. The previous owner I know and trust, who also owns an evo(much more powerful one) He built up my eclipse, and did the work himself, so the work was done pro. I was just inquiring from different sources as to what my best bet is to do next...performance wise. I'd like to know what everyone else in my shoes would do next, you all now knowing what I have.

Lets see, no there was no coolant in the oil or oil pan, no metal, and it doesnt burn coolant either. No leaks anywhere on the car, everything is in pristine order. I think ill take yous' guys advice and get another fan(the radiator I ahve only has one on the right side) and a carbon fiber hood.

I do have a question based one what you just said, about my head being as strong as I need it to be for now, but would it be wise to go ahead and at least get some stronger head bolts? Just seems to me like the bottom is ready to rock, but the head hasnt been modded at all, but if you say its good to go, ill take your word for it.

Do I need to try and seek any more boost? Should I leave it alone? If I were to want a good even 25 psi, based on my setup, do i need to strengthen anything else? Maybe a stronger head gasket? Bc all i need to do to up the boost now is get larger injectors...so i wanna make sure im ok b4 i do it.

My ultimate goal for this car is around 500 all said and done. I am planning fixing the grinding third gear sync., and when I do, im adding a flywheel(btw anyone suggest a particular flywheel make??). So that should free up some hp for me.

Lastly, as far as the nitrous, its one of those things I dont HAVE to have of coarse, but id like to someday, and I was just curious as to why you think I already dont have any good traction? Or whats your reasoning for suggesting so, and what can I do to improve...

It goes without saying, I appreciate all your time here, I HATE having to ask people these things, bc it seems as though once you buy into a little power you automatically become a dick around here.

Oh and one more thing, I didnt wanna start a whole new post for this, but I was interested in buying a set of pulleys, never bought them for an eclipse b4...have a few questions.

1)Which set is best for the eclipse?

2)Its not particularly aggrivating to install on the eclipse is it?

3)Is there anything special I have to do to install...the reason I ask is bc I bought a pulley for my honda I had and couldnt have it installed bc there was a small part cut out from the inside of the inner hole that made it so it had to have a special little bitty piece of metal or else it would be secured, A "keyway," and I had to have it special made at a machine shop, a little cube shaped piece of metal about the size of a pea...haha it was kind of aggrivating, this is why I ask.

There's only UDP for the 420a motor. Concept Illusion was making a complete pulley set for the past couple years but I don't think that'll ever get done. Cranks pulleys are basically just pop off and put the new one on. I didn't even use a crank pulley puller.

Nice...any idea how much horsepower thatll free up for me? Bc im probably about to order one here in a few, as soon as i hear back, that and a 10 inch fan lol

So that answers that...and as for the other questions...?


Thanks a lot!

Nice...any idea how much horsepower thatll free up for me? Bc im probably about to order one here in a few, as soon as i hear back, that and a 10 inch fan lol

So that answers that...and as for the other questions...?

Thanks a lot!

UDPs usually free up about 10whp they say. How true is that I don't know.

If your bottom end was built I can almost promise that you have ARP headstuds in there. I cant see stock ones holding 22psi. Anything you do to the head is only going to help make more HP. Running stock cams and all are fine but going to a stg 2 will only make more power. I run stock cams and pretty happy with them so its up to you whether you want to spend the money on them or not.

I run a fidanza flywheel and an afx under drive pulley. I would recommend both of them as I have had no problems with either one. I did have to use a puller to remove the stock crank pulley. It was a PITA to get off.

You have to be putting down more power than me and I dont have traction till 3rd gear. Wider tires and an LSD will help out on that. Also some get suspention may help to.

Awesome...

You guys have satisfied me very well, and im a worrier...lol so you must have done good.

So check this out.

Today I found out the reason I was burning up so much coolant, bc I was using the green coolant...I flushed the system and block and all and put in some dex cool coolant...not only am I not over-heating anymore, but the knock that I get in first gear disapeered. I mean it even knocked this morning on the way to the auto parts store, in first, every time it seemed. AS SOON as i switched the coolant, it did it one time when I left my driveway, and it has not done it since, I drove for about an hour, no knock whatsoever...thats the weirdest thing ive ever seen...I mean, ive had my fair share of "mystery problems" as im sure you all have....but i think that one takes the cake, I dont even think I wanna know why its fixed now lol...

But hey, thank you all very much, and this help inspires me to wanna frequent this website more often and try to help out others as well!

Glad we could help. Congrats on getting your car running good again.

Wait, one thing before you go...

I was looking at the fidanza clutches on ebay, and one description of one of the sellers that looked legit said that when you get one, its only compatable with a certain clutch, I think it said a dodge neon clutch? Im asking bc ive never order a performance flywheel before, is this correct or complete b.s.?

Also, do you have a website I can go to that sells them at a good price...real ones not ebay ones lol

You should be able to search google and find a website that sells them. The stock 420a clutch is a modular setup so we run dodge neon clutches. I have a fidanza flywheel and zoom clutch setup that is for a neon with the 420a. I also had to go to the dodge dealer and get the flywheel and pressure plate bolts for the neon.

So a flywheel wouldnt be compatible with the clutch I have...clutchmasters stage 4?

Post up a link to the clutch you have.

There were a lot of options to choose from, the owner b4 me is the one who installed it, but I narrowed it down best I could, I THINK this is it, you may be able to look at the site and find what I more than likely have. Anyways, heres the link...

http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?page=shop%2Fflypage&MakeID=89&FromYear=1995&MakeModelID=28512&AppID=2920

He would have to get a new flywheel to run that clutch so you may already have a light weight in there.

Awesome, I shall be asking him later on today...

Thanks!

So its still knocking...and I know why now The head was overhauled, and new lash adjusters were installed, but not "bled." anyone know what this means, or if they can be made not to make noise? I learned that it wont actually hurt anything, but its kind of annoying.

so i took the car today to a guy who knows a lot about engines(older experienced man) and even more about dsm, and he said the knock sounded solid..what all could this mean? what all causes ''solid" knocks?