92 RS Camaro will not crank over
mannasugar
08-30-2008, 10:16 PM
92 RS Camaro , 305, TBI, automatic
Car will not start, jump the car at the starter and it cranks over, I have replaced the ignition switch, I have replaced the gear selector switch, I have tested the security chip in the key and it test good, I need to know how to test the key cylinder. Sometimes the car will start, sometimes it will not. I can only work on the car when it is not starting. I drove the car all last week. Then on Friday it would not start. It has not started since. I have had the car for 3 months and it seems to start when it wants to. Is it possible to hot wire a car with a chip in the key? How do I test a fusible link?
Car will not start, jump the car at the starter and it cranks over, I have replaced the ignition switch, I have replaced the gear selector switch, I have tested the security chip in the key and it test good, I need to know how to test the key cylinder. Sometimes the car will start, sometimes it will not. I can only work on the car when it is not starting. I drove the car all last week. Then on Friday it would not start. It has not started since. I have had the car for 3 months and it seems to start when it wants to. Is it possible to hot wire a car with a chip in the key? How do I test a fusible link?
Morley
08-31-2008, 06:27 AM
I have tested the security chip in the key and it test good, I need to know how to test the key cylinder. Sometimes the car will start, sometimes it will not. How do I test a fusible link?
When it won't crank over is the security light on? If it is then the "reader" in the lock cylinder is probably having a hard time reading the chip on the key. And that is the best "test" for the cylinder, put in a known good key/chip and see if the security light goes out.
To test a fuseable link properly you'd need a megger, unfortunately these aren't readily avialable (used extensively in the aviation repair industry). A megger puts current through a wire and checks "leakage" or voltage drop at the other end. This would let you know if there is a partial break or other internal problem with the wiring.
When it won't crank over is the security light on? If it is then the "reader" in the lock cylinder is probably having a hard time reading the chip on the key. And that is the best "test" for the cylinder, put in a known good key/chip and see if the security light goes out.
To test a fuseable link properly you'd need a megger, unfortunately these aren't readily avialable (used extensively in the aviation repair industry). A megger puts current through a wire and checks "leakage" or voltage drop at the other end. This would let you know if there is a partial break or other internal problem with the wiring.
mannasugar
09-01-2008, 11:38 AM
When I turn the key to the run position all of the lights are on; Service engine soon, INFL REST, Security, brake, and Seat belt. All of the lights stay on except the Security light which goes off after a couple of seconds. This happens simultaneously while the car will not start. I drove the car yesterday to the supermarket and I was stranded for about 30 minutes and then the car started. I checked the OBD codes and got the following results; #23, Intake air temp sensor error(low temp indicated) #53 System voltage too high and #54 Fuel pump circuit low voltage. I am concerned with ;
#53 High voltage at battery OR High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR Voltage reference error OR Problem at vehicle anti-theft system.
How do I test Anti-theft system and repair the problem? I am familiar with the PASS KEY DECODER MODULE and its location.
When I drove home from the supermarket the car would not stay running, as if the idle was too low, it would die on corners where I was not giving the car gas. This would be #54 (I believe) How do I test this and repair the problem?
#53 High voltage at battery OR High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR Voltage reference error OR Problem at vehicle anti-theft system.
How do I test Anti-theft system and repair the problem? I am familiar with the PASS KEY DECODER MODULE and its location.
When I drove home from the supermarket the car would not stay running, as if the idle was too low, it would die on corners where I was not giving the car gas. This would be #54 (I believe) How do I test this and repair the problem?
Morley
09-01-2008, 01:22 PM
Code 54 can be bad fuel pump relay/wiring, and/or bad oil pressure switch/ wiring.
The relay and switch are pretty cheap, but first check the connections to them.
For the code 53 (VATS) check here http://72.19.213.157/files/VATSSystem.html
It sounds like the VATS module is not seeing the correct resistance after the engine is started.
The relay and switch are pretty cheap, but first check the connections to them.
For the code 53 (VATS) check here http://72.19.213.157/files/VATSSystem.html
It sounds like the VATS module is not seeing the correct resistance after the engine is started.
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