Newbe paint help please
sandy.g36
08-29-2008, 02:40 PM
Hi everyone. After being injured in the army i am now house bound and i want to get back into modeling after 20 years. As i see things have changed alot, and some of your models are amazing well done. I bought a airbrush as so many of you recommend, but hear is my first problem. I see acrylic paint is now common to use on models and many of you guys say its great but if you are painting a car with it how do you get the deep gloss shine with it?? Is that where you use clear? or do you have to use a enamel gloss?? I know i must sound thick to yous. And how do you paint a engine to look real? what colors do you use. I would be really greatfull for any help as i am stuck to get started on my models and cant wait to start. Think i will be on hear alot. Thanks Sandy
tuned.by.twenty
08-29-2008, 02:49 PM
Welcome back to the hobby! You've picked a good forum to join.
Now to answer your questions; Yes-after painting a car clear coat will give it the shine. I use Tamiya TS-13 clear on my models.
For engines, I use TS-17 gloss aluminum for any aluminum parts. The other bits are painted according to the instructions. As you get more skilled you can use what are called 'washes' on engines (and other parts) to highlight details and add greatly to the realism.
Now to answer your questions; Yes-after painting a car clear coat will give it the shine. I use Tamiya TS-13 clear on my models.
For engines, I use TS-17 gloss aluminum for any aluminum parts. The other bits are painted according to the instructions. As you get more skilled you can use what are called 'washes' on engines (and other parts) to highlight details and add greatly to the realism.
CFarias
08-29-2008, 04:20 PM
Welcome back to the hobby. Scale Auto Magazine had a wonderful issue on painting & finishing models:
http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net/sca080401.html
This magazine had great articles on painting with all types of mediums including acrylic. It is definitely worth having.
Hope you can still get it where you are, but you can order it from the link above.
http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net/sca080401.html
This magazine had great articles on painting with all types of mediums including acrylic. It is definitely worth having.
Hope you can still get it where you are, but you can order it from the link above.
360spider
08-29-2008, 07:24 PM
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Primer/primer.htm
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm
here is couple of tips from me :-)
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm
here is couple of tips from me :-)
gionc
08-30-2008, 02:34 AM
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Primer/primer.htm
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm
here is couple of tips from me :-)
I wanted to suggest the same :D, go there, follow the method step by step and you'll have good results soon without mess up stuff: welcome aboard!
Don't forget to post your progress in the WIP area, you'll find a lot of people to help/comment.
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm
here is couple of tips from me :-)
I wanted to suggest the same :D, go there, follow the method step by step and you'll have good results soon without mess up stuff: welcome aboard!
Don't forget to post your progress in the WIP area, you'll find a lot of people to help/comment.
gionc
08-30-2008, 02:38 AM
P.S. (edit looks wouldn't work for me lately as well as quick post...)
have a look at the AF How To's, tehre are several good tutorial like the PMan prepping and finishing articles>>
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=215864
and.... just try and have fun :D
have a look at the AF How To's, tehre are several good tutorial like the PMan prepping and finishing articles>>
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=215864
and.... just try and have fun :D
sandy.g36
08-30-2008, 09:58 AM
andyThanks Guys. So glad i joined this site. I have a new found confidance to start my models now. Thanks S
Didymus
09-01-2008, 07:07 PM
For engines, trannies, etc., you can mix and match various metallic shades from Model Master, Testors, Tamiya, etc. I like Tamiya and Polly Scale (flat only) water-based acrylics because, unlke enamel, they dry quickly and are compatible with just about anything.
Avoid putting lacquer (Tamiya TS series spraycan paint, and others) over enamel. It may work if the enamel is well-cured, but there's a risk of chemical reaction.
I avoid enamels except for very small parts that need a bright, shiny finish.
Some metallic paints, like Model Master metalizers, are too thin to brush. They have to be sprayed on with an airbrush. But they have a very smooth, realistic appearance, very much like real metal.
Ddms
Avoid putting lacquer (Tamiya TS series spraycan paint, and others) over enamel. It may work if the enamel is well-cured, but there's a risk of chemical reaction.
I avoid enamels except for very small parts that need a bright, shiny finish.
Some metallic paints, like Model Master metalizers, are too thin to brush. They have to be sprayed on with an airbrush. But they have a very smooth, realistic appearance, very much like real metal.
Ddms
sandy.g36
09-03-2008, 08:16 AM
Thats great thanks. I bought some tamiya metal paints (acrylics) like you said and i will give it ago. I am sure i will make some mistakes, but thanks to everyones help i should make less than i would normally. I cant start yet as my airbrush arrived with the airfilter/water trap sheard off at the bolt, So thats going to take a wee while to come back. I have started some 1/43 driver figures. I got some great decals of Senna Prost and Schumacher to go with the metal figures from Grand Prix Models. Has anyone got any advise for them?? I will post photos but they wont be a scratch on the ones that have been posted already.
Thanks again everyone your good guys. Sandy
Thanks again everyone your good guys. Sandy
rockinanko
09-03-2008, 11:38 AM
Hi sandy & welcome to AF!
whatever paint types you're using...the same one warning i'll sound, always protect yourself from harmfull fumes(yes, ALL OF THEM).
and yes, read & understand what 360spider(the ferrari master) has written. you may find it hard to follow all but the thoery is all the same.
do some cheap kits & gain as much experience as you can. remember don't rush...unless you're going for QUANTITY over QUALITY.
i hope to see your works soon
keep trying...
cheers
whatever paint types you're using...the same one warning i'll sound, always protect yourself from harmfull fumes(yes, ALL OF THEM).
and yes, read & understand what 360spider(the ferrari master) has written. you may find it hard to follow all but the thoery is all the same.
do some cheap kits & gain as much experience as you can. remember don't rush...unless you're going for QUANTITY over QUALITY.
i hope to see your works soon
keep trying...
cheers
Didymus
09-03-2008, 03:04 PM
I was recommending acrylics only for brushing mechanical parts, not bodies.
I know that many people use acrylics for bodies, but I much prefer either Tamiya TS Series synthetic lacquers or automotive urethanes - touch-up paint, actually. The urethanes come in an almost infinite variety of colors, cover very well, and dry almost instantly to a flat finish.
Regardless of which "base" (body color) you use, your final coat can be Tamiya TS-13 clear coat. I prefer it over two-part automotive urethane clear because the automotive paint urethane has an extremely high gloss - great for show cars, kustoms and new race cars, but too shiny for the older race cars I like.
If orange peel is a problem, try Tamiya Coarse rubbing compound before investing in Micro Mesh or other multi-stage abrasive systems.
Gionc's link mentioned using toothpaste before applying primer. That's a good idea, or you can get the same result using Soft Scrub. The important thing is to remove gloss and oily handprints before priming.
All the best - hope you enjoy the hobby once again!
Ddms
I know that many people use acrylics for bodies, but I much prefer either Tamiya TS Series synthetic lacquers or automotive urethanes - touch-up paint, actually. The urethanes come in an almost infinite variety of colors, cover very well, and dry almost instantly to a flat finish.
Regardless of which "base" (body color) you use, your final coat can be Tamiya TS-13 clear coat. I prefer it over two-part automotive urethane clear because the automotive paint urethane has an extremely high gloss - great for show cars, kustoms and new race cars, but too shiny for the older race cars I like.
If orange peel is a problem, try Tamiya Coarse rubbing compound before investing in Micro Mesh or other multi-stage abrasive systems.
Gionc's link mentioned using toothpaste before applying primer. That's a good idea, or you can get the same result using Soft Scrub. The important thing is to remove gloss and oily handprints before priming.
All the best - hope you enjoy the hobby once again!
Ddms
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