1988 camaro check engine light

i have a 1988 camaro and the check engine light comes on and i took it to auto zone and they said it as code 33 or 34 or 35 which they said could be the mass airflow sensor or egr valve or control module ignation. how can i tell which one it is. thanks april

Which was it 33, 34 or 35? Each code has a specific meaning.
Tell ya what. Do this... Take a paperclip and straighten it out, then bend it in a narrow U. Now locate the ALDL. It is under the dash by your right knee. It should have a 1" X 2.5" black cover over it. Next take the paperclip and stick the ends in the top 2 right hand most pins (pins A & B). Now, turn the key on but do not start the car. The fan will kick on and there will be some clicking under the hood...all normal.
Now, watch the check engine light..it will begin to flash. it will be "flash" < pause> "flash, flash". This is code 12, it means that the ECM is ready to communicate. It will flash code 12 three times then start flashing out the stored codes. Example... "flash, flash, flash" <pause> "flash, flash, flash, flash". This would be code 34. It will flash each stored code 3 times until it has run through them all and then it will start all over again beginning with code 12. Now you can turn the key off and remove the paper clip.
Come back here and post what codes you got. DO NOT go out and start buying parts. A MAF is $500, and even if you have a MAF related code it may not the the sensor itself that is bad. There is a whole lot of troubleshooting to do before you replace parts.

ok i did that and mine will flash flash flash pause flash flash flash and than it will do that 3 times and than flash flash flash pause flash flash and repeat code and than flash flash flash pause flash flash flash flash and repeat that three times than starts over with the first code. the car runs good just hard to start and ildes low when you stop. does that mean i have 3 things that could be wrong since it gives 3 codes?

oh yeah and is it true if you take a screw driver and tap the mass air flow sensor and the car shuts off its bad. because the guy a auto zone told me that and i tried that and my car didnt shut off when i tapped it with a screw drive. thanks april

ok i did that and it is flash flash flash pause flash flash flash and it will do that 3 times and than flash flash flash pause flash flash and does that code 3 time than flash flash flash pause flash flash flash flash 3 times than starts over with the first code again. the car runs good but its hard to start and when the temp gets up to 220 thats when the check engine light comes on. and will idles low when you stop. i dont know if its true but the guy at autozone told me if you take a screw driver and tap the mass air flow sensor with the car running and the engine stops its bad. so i tried that and it didnt die when i was tapping it with a screwdriver. so with 3 different codes does that mean there are 3 things wrong? thanks april

You have a code 23 a 33 and a 34
For the codes 33 & 34 replace the MAF power relay AND the MAF burn off realy (they cost about $20 each). They are located by the brake booster along with the fuel pump relay.
The code 32 is for EGR, which, if it is stuck open would explain the low idle.
First replace the relays, disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Then reconnect the battery and drive the car and see if the codes return.
If the code 32 returns, don't sweat it, we'll tackle that one once the MAF codes are done.

i called autozone to get a maf burn off relay and maf power relay but the guy told me all they have a is mass airflow sensor so he said that was probly what i needed. is that right? thanks april

can i just buy 2 mass air flow sensor relay and use one of them for the burn off relay? because the auto part store has no ideal what iam talking about lol. sorry for asking dumb question but i am a female and i understand what parts you are talking about but the auto part store confuses me because they said they have never heard of a maf burn off relay. so now iam confused. but i will buy the mass airflo sensor relay tommorow. so as wondering if i needed to buy 2 and use 1 for the burn off relay. thanks april

ok i think i found what you are talking about if you can tell me if iam right and these are the parts.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__88-92-TPI-TBI-Camaro-MAF-Power-Burnoff-Fuel-Fan-Relay_W0QQitemZ320256595759QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20Truck Q20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewIt em?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

and if this is the maf power relay http://www.autozone.com/N,15901319/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

Your second link was a dead end, it was for a 1995 Camaro.

BUT, YES! The burn off and power relays are the same part number.
This is what you need http://www.autozone.com/N,15901319//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
You need 2 of them.

DO NOT buy a MAF sensor, we aren't to that part yet. Code 33 is 99% of the time is from a bad power relay.

i got the parts today ok is one located up towards the front of the car by the battery and radator? i found the one mounted on the back wall of the car by the fuel pump relay but didnt see one there with the same number on it but found one that look just like it with the part # being the same up by the front of the car is that the 2 i change? thanks very much april

ok i got the maf sensor relays on and now the only code it reads is 32 for the egr valve. thanks april

ok i got the maf sensor relays on and now the only code it reads is 32 for the egr valve. thanks april
Weeeeee! Ok, first problem solved.
Now. Look under your plenum and find the the EGR valve. It is aft of center and has a flat metal "can" on top of it. On the front of the metal body (bolted to the manifold) there should be a wire coming out of it that then heads to the back of the engine. This is the diagnostic switch. Make sure the wire is hooked up at the EGR. Then follow it back to where it goes behind the engine. Gently pull up on the wire until the connector can be seen, Make sure the connector is hooked up.
Next, get a mirror, Walmart sells an inspection mirror and magnet set for a couple bucks. Take the mirror and put it under the EGR valve diaphram housing (the flat metal can) and look at the under side between the "spokes". (use a flashlight if you can't see). Have someone start the car while you watch the diaphram. It should NOT move upwards. If it does, the valve is stuck open or the solenoid is shorted and needs to be replaced. If it remains closed, rev the engine a little and watch for it to open, it shouldn't. If that is goodm, shut off the car and get a hand vacuum pump (like mity vac) and hook it to the nipple on the diaphram housing. Slowly operate the pump to apply vacuum and watch the diaphram, it should open. If it won't open, change the valve. If it opens, get it all the way open and pinch off the hose, it should stay open, if it doesn't stay open, replace the valve. If it does stay open then the diagnostic switch is either bad or the solenoid is not operating. The easiest part to get to is the solenoid. It should be mounted to a bracket on the RH side of the intake manifold towards the rear (the hose that was on the EGR goes to a rubber 3 way joiner that hooks to the solenoid). If the solenoid doesn't fix it, you'll need to remove the plenum to get at the diagnostic switch.
EGR isn't "essential" for the engine to run (if it isn't stuck open) but it does help control detonation and that light can be bothersome.

ok i will try that this weekend. after i changed the maf sensor relays its still hard to start does that have anything to do with the egr valve? thanks april

ok i will try that this weekend. after i changed the maf sensor relays its still hard to start does that have anything to do with the egr valve? thanks april
It could be, if the EGR is stuck open it would make it difficult to start.
Once it is started, how does it run cold? Then, how does it run when warmed up?

it runs pretty good cold and after its warmed up. the only thing is it idles low when you are stoped at a light. other than that it runs pretty good. but i will check the egr later this evening. thanks april

How low does the idle get when stopped in gear?

it idles like it could die but never has. it runs better after armed up. thanks april

Sounds like you may end up changing the IAC (Idle Air Control motor). If you do, use some Valvoline Syn Power throttle body & carb cleaner in the bore where the IAC sits.

ok i did the egr checks and it either has to be the diagnostic switch or a bad solenoid. so i will change the solenoid first and see if that is it but will be a few weeks before i do that cause that piece is kinda expensive lol. so will let you know. thanks april

ok i did the egr checks and it either has to be the diagnostic switch or a bad solenoid. so i will change the solenoid first and see if that is it but will be a few weeks before i do that cause that piece is kinda expensive lol. so will let you know. thanks april
Expensive? Where did you look for it? Never mind..they HAVE gotten expensive. I think when I replaced mine it was $20 or so.

No problem, we'll narrow it down further and cheaper.
take the line going to the EGR valve off and hook it to a vacuum gauge. Tape the vacuum gauge to your windshield and go for a drive. Now, while driving keep an eye on the gauge and the check eng light. When the light comes on, look at the gauge. If it reads vacuum, the solenoid is good. If it always reads vacuum as soon as you start the car, the solenoid is bad. If the check eng light comes on and there is no vacuum reading, the solenoid is bad.

If you need a switch you can get it from RockAuto.com for about $12
If you need a solenoid you can try checking the local junkyards, they usually charge about $10 for small parts like that...or if it happens to fall in your pocket....

Oh, and if there is no constant vacuum, then that isn't the cause for the low idle, its more likely an IAC. To check it, if you have working A/C, get the engine running and warmed up. Now watch the tach and listen carefully and turn the A/C to MAX cold. The engine idle should come up JUST before the A/C compressor engages. If it does then the IAC is working. If the idle won't increase or is slow to increase then try cleaning the IAC.
You can pull it out and clean it with the Valvoline syn power TB & carb cleaner. That stuff eats carbon like no body's business. Just spray it on the pintle end (metal cone) and the shaft and spring and let it sit a minute and spray again. Then spray in the bore where the IAC was and let it sit and spray a few more times, then use an acid brush in there and spray it all out again.
The IAC gasket will likely be trashed but you can make one from some thin gasket paper (auto parts store). To put the IAc back in. Hold the body in your fist with the pintle facing up towards your thumb. Now push down hard on the pintle with your thumb while rocking the pintle bqack and forth. This will retract the pintle and prevent you from jamming it in the bore when you reinstall it. Don't worry if it sounds like you stripped something out while seating the pintle, it is supposed to do that.

ok it is the erg solenoid i will be calling some junk yards to find it. and for the iac i dont have working ac my bearings are locked on it. so cant sheck it but might go ahead and change the iac after we fix the egr solenoid. thanks for all the help you saved me a bunch by those sensors instead of the mass air flow. will let you know how it goes when i find one. thanks april