power window switch
darkcherrymetallic
08-23-2008, 04:15 PM
Hello,
I've read all the previous postings on the forum for troubleshooting window problems and I was trying to troubleshoot my car problem. My car is a 2002 40th anniversary grand prix. All the window work except the driver's side. It works sometimes, but not most of the time.
I was trying to determine if I have a switch problem or a motor problem. Now if I want to test out the switch, can I in theory switch the location of the brown wire (function: power window motor left front down control) and dark blue wire (function:power window motor left front up control) with the proper and respective wires for controlling the left rear window? I mean since the switch button for the left rear window works and I don't need to be able to open it up and down? Will this work?
If it will work, I've tried pulling those wires from the plastic holder, but I can't pull them out. It looks like each color wire is hooked to a little piece of plastic Is there a trick in pulling the color coded wires out?
Thank you very much.
I've read all the previous postings on the forum for troubleshooting window problems and I was trying to troubleshoot my car problem. My car is a 2002 40th anniversary grand prix. All the window work except the driver's side. It works sometimes, but not most of the time.
I was trying to determine if I have a switch problem or a motor problem. Now if I want to test out the switch, can I in theory switch the location of the brown wire (function: power window motor left front down control) and dark blue wire (function:power window motor left front up control) with the proper and respective wires for controlling the left rear window? I mean since the switch button for the left rear window works and I don't need to be able to open it up and down? Will this work?
If it will work, I've tried pulling those wires from the plastic holder, but I can't pull them out. It looks like each color wire is hooked to a little piece of plastic Is there a trick in pulling the color coded wires out?
Thank you very much.
tblake
08-24-2008, 12:12 AM
Yes, in thearoy, that should work. No idea how to get the wires out, sometimes there are clips to release.
Why not just bypass the switch and complete the circuit for the driver window up and down? If you can make it go up and down with jumper wires in place of the switch, you know the switch is bad. If it wont go up or down, then its probably the motor or wiring to.
Why not just bypass the switch and complete the circuit for the driver window up and down? If you can make it go up and down with jumper wires in place of the switch, you know the switch is bad. If it wont go up or down, then its probably the motor or wiring to.
darkcherrymetallic
08-24-2008, 11:41 AM
Thanks for the response. How does one complete the circuit? Do I just connect the "ground wire" to the appropriate wire for "down" or to the appropriate wire for "up" while everything else is plugged in?
tblake
08-24-2008, 11:46 AM
You will need a wiring schematic. Is yours a 3800NA, 3800SC, or 3100? 4 Door or 2 Door?
accuab
08-24-2008, 04:06 PM
As far as the color coding, I found a web site that show it for all the doors and some other useful stuff. I have a 02 GT and everything on it has been correct so far. http://www.gp-owners.com/audio/wiring.html
Dark blue is the up for the driver's door and brown is the down for it. You will need a jumper wire to connect the corresponding color to ground just like you said. If I remember correctly, it is a little difficult to jump it with the whole switch piece still connected. Take the wiring off and then don't put it all the way back on so that you have access to the prongs coming out of the board. Just be careful not to hit more than one prong with the wire at a time. It may not necessarily hurt anything but that piece is expensive and isn't worth it. I just recently had two windows that worked sometimes and others not. I took both out and lubricated them and one still works properly. One had apparently crushed the steel cable inside the spool on the regulator. It caused it to bind up again and shattered the part that hold the cable on the part that attaches to the window. So I've got a regulator ordered for that door. It sounds like your regulator is going out in my opinion. But its always worth checking out the cheaper options first before wasting any money on something you don't need. When you jump the wire over, have your ear close to the hole that you pulled the switches out of so you can hear the motor moving. Then make sure that you can hear that sound when you use the switch instead of the jumper wire. If you hear it both times, it rules out the switch being the proplem.
Dark blue is the up for the driver's door and brown is the down for it. You will need a jumper wire to connect the corresponding color to ground just like you said. If I remember correctly, it is a little difficult to jump it with the whole switch piece still connected. Take the wiring off and then don't put it all the way back on so that you have access to the prongs coming out of the board. Just be careful not to hit more than one prong with the wire at a time. It may not necessarily hurt anything but that piece is expensive and isn't worth it. I just recently had two windows that worked sometimes and others not. I took both out and lubricated them and one still works properly. One had apparently crushed the steel cable inside the spool on the regulator. It caused it to bind up again and shattered the part that hold the cable on the part that attaches to the window. So I've got a regulator ordered for that door. It sounds like your regulator is going out in my opinion. But its always worth checking out the cheaper options first before wasting any money on something you don't need. When you jump the wire over, have your ear close to the hole that you pulled the switches out of so you can hear the motor moving. Then make sure that you can hear that sound when you use the switch instead of the jumper wire. If you hear it both times, it rules out the switch being the proplem.
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