Caliper Slide Pins Sticking

I'm doing the front brakes on my '97 Grand Prix SE and I'm not quite sure about these caliper slide pins.

I bought this hardware kit.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=308832&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/Raybestos/H5637A-1.jpg

The problem I'm having is the caliper slide pins are very stiff when pushing them into the caliper bracket holes. I put the rubber bushings onto the necked down tip of the caliper slide pins and greased them up with Stalube caliper grease. When I put them in the holes without having the caliper in position they seem to be very very difficult to push in the holes and they don't want to come back out without a great deal of force.

So my question is, are the rubber bushings suppose to stay stationary in the caliper bracket and the slide pin slides back and forth in them or are they suppose to stay on the end of the caliper slide pins and slide back and forth with the pin? If so then why are they so sticky? I cleaned out the holes by filling them with brake cleaner and using a q-tip to get out all the old grease so the holes are as clean as can be.

Thanks!

the slide pin just moves..did you clean/''sand'' (if needed) the pin??
also could be the new extra grease & can make them stick.you'll see when the caliper is on if its just the grease they will move freely.if you cleaned them up well & greased them it sounds like it will be ok.Good Luck

Follow the, fogg. You want that to slide like a skate on ice. You need that caliper to float or you will rub your pads and lose gas mileage and a whole ball of boiling Dot4 and cook the discs to a warp is that one stuck pin.

Take a flashlight at the other end of the hole is do not blind yourself is check the fogg in the tunnel for debris and take steel wool and pack it like a canon and jam it clean with a chop stick is you gouge the surface is a stuck pin once again clean that out without metal to metal pushing out clean.

You do have brake clean in a can to shoot that clean? If you use water you rust it. so push a wet paper towel thru with a little WD-40 spray; until it cleans out for the pin; being all greased and ready to install.

the slide pin just moves..did you clean/''sand'' (if needed) the pin??
also could be the new extra grease & can make them stick.you'll see when the caliper is on if its just the grease they will move freely.if you cleaned them up well & greased them it sounds like it will be ok.Good Luck

Yes but which portion moves is my question. Does the rubber bushing, the ones shown in the hardware kit picture, stay on the slide pin and they move as one within the caliper bracket holes or does the rubber bushing stay in one spot and the stem of the slide pin slides in and out of the bushing.

Neither the rubber bushings or the caliper pins move as you described. The design is a single-piston floating caliper. All the rubber bushings do is keep one end of each caliper pin which is also the caliper retaining bolt secure and in a good fixed position. Basically the rubber bushings are used for noise reduction. The part that moves is the complete caliper on the caliper pins/bolts as the brakes are applied and the caliper piston pushes in. The part the caliper slides on is located towards the area of the caliper pin bolt head.

Basically the rubber bushings are used for noise reduction

I am going to have to disagree with this statement. Not that you can tell me how I can explain without stepping on toes how my abstract works if I have and ask 8 Chevy mechanics on line about setting codes and the 1Atmo? Do you think that they might keep up on some very basic tech? Tech that is in the shop manual? I want to take that bet they do not have a clue is say 80% with a 20% plus or minus.

So, as you will soon see how I have to keep my password is you and I are now on my 16th password trying to qualify if not quantify how you can look at that rubber boot, come away with a collapse type accordion cover to keep the dust out and follow the caliper on the studs? That is how I see the boot.

The thin plates are both a pre-press gasket, so as not stick the piston caliper head to head against the pad. Now, the inserts that are those thin sheets, will stick on the caliper mounting brackets in between the booted studs. The studs are staked as the static bar(s). The pads wear down and the caliper can now float all the way to the feelers on the pads.
Do you see a tiny tang that is made almost like the, quieter-plates?
You tag those noise reminders is you will hear them more on the backup moving out of the driveway. Time to change out the pads is the chalkboard noise.

Getting back to the Q-plates call them; they will act as shims and if you add all the plates times the piston moving farther out is a lower pedal. So, you want to kept these plates in the mix.
Now if you where going to race the car, then you remove the shims because you are running fresh pads and you could care less about the squeak of a few harmonics the shims suppress that pad noise. The rubber boots just float in the air is how do they quiet things?

:nono: I don't know what or who you are dealing with. I am looking for logical thinkers. I keep banging into walls someone thinking they can school me is school you. Now, Like I said and will say it again. There are way too many people running up to me, demanding respect as to how I type my words. I have to school a monitor or two is I wish you would be up on the factory shop manual is not a Vette site, not Cycle World, not SPEED, not too many can walk the parts or the assembly, (let alone what they are looking at).

I am motorcycle and auto literate. I think I can wheel to wheel most any part of a car if not fastrack have at it. I am top flight motorcycle literate is I do not deserve to open a tool box if not know that manual cold.

On this forum, there are cars from A to Z is no, I just picked a Citation as if I need to know what is a WATT or what to do at the WOT at the throttle. Cars are cars. Engines are engine. Carbs or digital fuel injection, is game me is game you. Let the questioner decide.

You have no, "off topic" to air my view to your tech (on your boot quote) is my tech. Now, ask who is correct on the rubber boots, is it me or you, Sir. Now that we can make one of two things happen here. You can all sit here and read one less variable is me. I am used to passwords and adios to you all. Or, you can leave me alone. I will not offend anyone is someone climb on me, moderator? I want you to call the ball is who starts it, (who gives out the incorrect data) and if I do not throw down some hard evidence to your Boot-Quiet, is, I am going to dust off my boots up someone's anal retentive. < Now, if you do not have a sense of humor and a little mechanic know how to throw some boot variable your way, did you read one curse word as if I am all upset about your car problem?

I would like for you to think about that one. And of course, this is your decision for that one page of stalled cars on that A B Sea of cars in trouble. I am a troubleshooter, not a trouble maker. You can't have a little humor with your frustration, then hand that password over.

On the other hand, if you think I am some poser that has no clue? I think I may have schooled a few heads about fuel injection a little bit. If the shop manual cannot help you, then either can my abstract is I know the book sorta can walk it. Tell me I do not love that code page after page is find that step I am missing.

Rubber brake caliper boots and window rubber trim and all that window/caliper up and down sideways is have it your way. Look what you put yourself in. You are going to bang back and forth with my tech and I am as low tech as it comes.

You are going to pull the plug on my password and no matter how I answer a tech question, it is going to be answered my way or the highway. I do not compromise basic physics, Sorry!
I am going to assume you agree that a window rubber is more for a seal than sound, which may be called a bye-product of the whistle in your ear.

I am all business and do not want to kill a person asking a question I picked and chose that question is keep the person alive both car and body. Your community values and my logic are really both the same thing you want to argue about it.

Now, I am going to think about coming back is you better make up your mind and pull the plug on me or I am going to answer how I want to answer a walk-every-single-step is call the ball, moderator.

Either, kindly repair my "Edit" button so I may correct a word or two. I am way too busy on other websites answering tech to deal with all this is either you deal with a cranky mechanic ready to go to work here or hand me my walking papers is look a gifthours in day mouf is fine wit me. I am free advice and you cry about it is whine I have to put up with wine ears.

Grab your balls and hold on, or be stuck on the side of the road with your computer car is you are locked out of that black box is you are not. Bye the time I have not even come close as to you being a bit more up on the electronics is so easy to understand, I am out of ear, password and all. You have 12 computer variables and have not a clue as to name them is show me that mechanic. :screwy: You have to be a little whacked on the nerd side of the physics, no? Some nerds are pretty weird and you might as well ban them too is leave Brit Knee alone! Leave Brit Knee Alone! :icon16: < YOu want to see something ironic? Old toofless ear is, Icon16. Here I am with 15 passwords.

Icon16 believe dis is (not butter), butter it's going to happen. I am ready for my punishment :lol2:

What?

What?

My thoughts too. :screwy:

I wouldn't worry about him and his weird replies or even reply to him. He has been sent on a vacation from AF. :wave: