3.8L V6 Head Tightening Sequence

I am about ready to put my rebuilt heads back on and question the procedure in the original Ford shop manual for my 1986 T-Bird. I agree with the tightening sequence up to step "e" where it states to back off the attaching (Head) bolts 2 to 3 turns. Then step "f" states to repeat steps "a" through "d." I can't believe that they want you to completely loosen the head back up and release the tension on the head gasket and then go through the entire torque procedure all over again. It seems as though you are now torqueing down a used head gasket. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions?

I was looking up torque specs in a 1993 book for a ford explorer. It was the same I checked in a 1997 book for the same year engine and they dropped the two additional steps. I remember doing a 1983 Ford 3.8L and I backed off and retorqued the engine I didn't have any leaks and I ran the car for 3 months before selling it.
I'll look in my newer Chiltons and check if the additional steps were dropped tomorrow.

your manual is correct!!!not sure but think it has some thing with streching the hb. do they rec. replacing head bolts??

Here is some more info that I got this morning, and yes always replace the head bolts on these engines.

"I talked with a local machine shop this morning that has an excellent reputation.
The rebuilder that specializes in the 3.8 stated that the new torque procedure is as follows. Continue with steps "a" through "d" which are 37, 45, 52 and 59 lb-ft. Follow step "e" of backing all of the head bolts off 2 to 3 turns, but change step "f" to "re-torque all bolts, in proper sequence of course, to 18 lb-ft and then turn 90 degrees further. The rebuilder claims that this is the latest from those who know. "

I checked my newer manual and it still says to back off and retorque. I noticed you said to go to 18ft lb and then 90 degrees. It used to say do the steps to 59 ft lb and 90 degrees. Did you omit something or did they drop the torque this much,

I checked my newer manual and it still says to back off and retorque. I noticed you said to go to 18ft lb and then 90 degrees. It used to say do the steps to 59 ft lb and 90 degrees. Did you omit something or did they drop the torque this much,

Yes, I asked they guy twice 18 lb-ft and he said yes and repeated it back to me. He said it is the latest Ford procedure, but it sure doesn't seem right to me. He said something about the stretch in the bolts is established this way. I just wonder how much torque is applied to the bolts at 18 lb-ft plus 90 degrees. This is really making me nervous putting this thing back together. I have 250 bucks in the heads and another 100 in gaskets and don't want this thing coming loose anytime soon.

I would follow the Ford manual I have done them this way and didn't have any problem. I used original bolts but torque to yield bolts they recommend using new ones. I think 18ft lb plus 90 degrees is about 60 ft lb.
You can go to Ford and ask for a service bulletin and read it. When their is to much difference I double check.

Here is the latest on the head-torque dilemma. The machine shop read off the latest TSB to me as I stated earlier. The TSB stated to torque as per the four steps up to the 59 ft-lb then back off the two turns. The next step was changed to torque to 18 ft-lb and then turn an additional 90 degrees. I put a mark on the socket to make sure that I turned the bolt exactly 90 degrees. I set the torque wrench to 65 ft-lb thinking that I wouldn't want to torque an aluminum head any more than that. The first bolt did OK the wrench clicked at about the 90-degree point. The second bolt clicked and I hadn't even turned it 45 degrees. I definitely didn't want to go any further on that bolt so I backed both of them off and retorqued at the old four-step procedure. I hope I can get another 60K on this thing before the head gaskets go again.

You definitely have to replace the head bolts.. they are one use only.
If you want to, and most of the guys who own Tbird SC's do, use ARP studs
they are reusable.
But what ever you do make sure you use some lube on the contact areas when torquing them down. under and on top of the washers etc....
And make sure the block surface contact area is nice and clean and smooth too. You know how these 3,8 s are for blowing the pass side head gasket.

OHH one more thing since the bolts ARP or stack go into the water jacket the threads need sealer on them as well.
And you should run a tap in the holes as well

Have fun

Tony