Help!!! Break And Electrical Problems!!!
94BonnevilleKid
08-11-2008, 11:25 PM
:rolleyes: 1993 Ford Taurus SHO 3.2 w/ ABS
Please help... Ive been thru hundreds of these posts and I cant find anything similar!!!
Ok so I figured the problems I was having was because of the damn master cylinder. I talked to my guy at the parts shop and him and I (but he GAURENTEED ME THIS) figured that the issue was the Master Cylinder. Anyways so today I decided to replace the Master Cylinder... and I do... and GUESS WHAT?!?! IT DOESNT WORK!!! The break petal STILL goes down to the floor... NO fluid leak... no NOTHING... NO vanuum leak... NOTHING NOTHING NOTHING. I have a TOMORROW (Tuesday) deadline that I NEED to have this car RUNNING!!! PLEASE HELP!!! Is it the booster????????
As to the next issue, less important but still pretty important...
Ok since yesterday (Sunday) I am blowing the radio/interior lights fuse EVERY TIME I OPEN ANY DOOR. I checked all the radio wiring... its fine... I DONT KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON!!! At the same time this happened, when the fuse is still in place, I cant put down the passenger window (front) from the main switch control in the drivers seat... but I CAN put it down from the control pad from the passenger seat... ALSO I put in a 30 amp instead of a 15 amp fuse so it wont blow so easy so I can run some tests... so anyways when I close the doors and then I put on all the interior lamps (and since its a higher fuse it wont blow) the doors lock? I dont know I figured I would just add that in there...
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME!!!
Im not a new user either... I used to have a different login but I forgot the password and it wouldnt email it to me so I had to re-register.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Please help... Ive been thru hundreds of these posts and I cant find anything similar!!!
Ok so I figured the problems I was having was because of the damn master cylinder. I talked to my guy at the parts shop and him and I (but he GAURENTEED ME THIS) figured that the issue was the Master Cylinder. Anyways so today I decided to replace the Master Cylinder... and I do... and GUESS WHAT?!?! IT DOESNT WORK!!! The break petal STILL goes down to the floor... NO fluid leak... no NOTHING... NO vanuum leak... NOTHING NOTHING NOTHING. I have a TOMORROW (Tuesday) deadline that I NEED to have this car RUNNING!!! PLEASE HELP!!! Is it the booster????????
As to the next issue, less important but still pretty important...
Ok since yesterday (Sunday) I am blowing the radio/interior lights fuse EVERY TIME I OPEN ANY DOOR. I checked all the radio wiring... its fine... I DONT KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON!!! At the same time this happened, when the fuse is still in place, I cant put down the passenger window (front) from the main switch control in the drivers seat... but I CAN put it down from the control pad from the passenger seat... ALSO I put in a 30 amp instead of a 15 amp fuse so it wont blow so easy so I can run some tests... so anyways when I close the doors and then I put on all the interior lamps (and since its a higher fuse it wont blow) the doors lock? I dont know I figured I would just add that in there...
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME!!!
Im not a new user either... I used to have a different login but I forgot the password and it wouldnt email it to me so I had to re-register.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
shorod
08-12-2008, 06:35 AM
So is the problem that the brake pedal goes to the floor? Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installation and then bleed the brake lines afterwards? If not, you probably just have so much air in your lines that when you step on the brake pedal it goes to the floor because you're compressing air in the lines. It sounds like you need to bleed the system.
Was the engine running when you found the pedal goes to the floor? Are you losing fluid? Have you closely inspected for leaks? If you pump the pedal with the engine off does the pedal get firm?
Please don't use a larger fuse than intended, ever! The wiring of that circuit is designed for the current rating of the circuit (with probably some derating). Using a fuse twice as large is a good way to burn up wire. You might find your short, but you'll probably also burn up a bunch of wire, and possibly your car. Not a good idea. Rather you could use a test light in place of the fuse. The bulb of the test light will limit the current through the circuit and the bulb intensity will increase as the current draw increases. You'll probably find that you have a pinched wire where the wires go between the door jamb and the driver's door. Either where the boot meets metal, or in the multiwire connector mounted to the door jamb.
-Rod
Was the engine running when you found the pedal goes to the floor? Are you losing fluid? Have you closely inspected for leaks? If you pump the pedal with the engine off does the pedal get firm?
Please don't use a larger fuse than intended, ever! The wiring of that circuit is designed for the current rating of the circuit (with probably some derating). Using a fuse twice as large is a good way to burn up wire. You might find your short, but you'll probably also burn up a bunch of wire, and possibly your car. Not a good idea. Rather you could use a test light in place of the fuse. The bulb of the test light will limit the current through the circuit and the bulb intensity will increase as the current draw increases. You'll probably find that you have a pinched wire where the wires go between the door jamb and the driver's door. Either where the boot meets metal, or in the multiwire connector mounted to the door jamb.
-Rod
94BonnevilleKid
08-12-2008, 08:42 AM
I did bleed the master cylinder before installing, the reason I am thinking that it is something else is because the break pedal going to the floor was the original problem. It feels absolutely no different after replacing the master cylinder. When I pump the pedal it still goes all the way to the floor, and I made sure there are no leaks... It doesnt seem like its a leak or air in the system... Anything else??? If thats still what you think it could be, Ill check it all again...
Thanks
Thanks
shorod
08-12-2008, 02:03 PM
Unless you got a bad master cylinder, air in the lines is about all it could be if you really don't have a leak.
-Rod
-Rod
RaeRae1
08-12-2008, 03:10 PM
Double check your MC for a bleed valve. Mine has one and it made a big difference when I installed my new lines. It needed to be bled a few times before the pedal seemed to stiffen up.
94BonnevilleKid
08-13-2008, 11:52 AM
I bled the lines a few times and it ended up working. What a pain in the A!!! Thanks for your help everybody!!!
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025