Checked KR on stock engine...

So I got in my Aeroforce Interceptor gauge (ordered mainly to check KR) and I have a few questions.

First few relating directly to the gauge...

Is there a way to get an accurate torque measurement off the gauge? Apparently my car puts out 400+ ft/lbs stock...LOL

I find when I restart the car the gauge won't boot up unless I unplug and re-insert into the OBDII port...it's a 2001 but my OBDII seems to power it...when I restart the car it just flashes the LED's until I unplug and re-insert.

What is an "unsafe" transmission temperature? So far I haven't gone above 210*F, I want to get a transmission cooler if necessary, but I won't bother if my temps aren't too high...


Now for the KR, I found with an IAT temp of about 80*F I'm getting 2-3 degrees of KR at WOT and with 120*F+ I got about 5-6* of KR (max) even at relatively low throttle acceleration above 60km/h as well as WOT. I'm considering a better FWI system (it's just a short ram right now, too hot in it's location I guess) and a 2.5" ZZP DP with U-bend delete to start which I hope to have lower KR to 0. Do you think that will help much (seems a colder air will lower KR to 2-4* based on temperature and what I've gotten so far, I've heard good things about the DP with U-bend delete. I do want to do a 3.5" pulley (i'd add colder plugs and lower T-stat) but I want to run next to no KR if possible...with these numbers do you think I'd pull it off? Maybe with PEM's (at least front)?

Thanks!

IMHO, you want to run up to the advent of ESC activity, and let the ESC sensor back off spark.

If you neuter the calibration so you never get any ESC activity you're not taking full advantage of the engine's potential.

Also IMHO your best bet is to reduce intake air temps. Aluminum heads would also help but finding some of those are a rather remote possibility. I've only seen a few sets which were special prototype build probably at more cost than a brand new vehicle.

I have run trans temps up to 300F in abusive driving which doesn't kill anything immediately. The trans calibration has a self-protection strategy where it will start to shift very hard in order to minimize heat generated from clutch slippage during shifting. I think it will also prioritize 3rd gear locked over 4th unlocked for the same reasons...reduce fluid shear which generates internal heat.

IMHO unless you are doing constant 0-60 or 1/4 mile runs or towing trailers you are OK without an additional trans cooler.

For what appears to be a stock engine your KR is on the high side. I can see up to 2 degrees of burst, WOT or even shift KR but you need to get that reduced especially if you plan on going to a smaller supercharger pulley even a 3.5". You will never get it down to zero even with suitable intake and exhaust mods especially with increased boost. A re-programmed PCM module will help and should be installed before doing any further mods.

What brand gas are you using and what octane level? Also, what brand spark plugs, number or heat range. You could get it down by going at least one range colder on the spark plugs which will prep you for the 3.5" SC pulley anyways. In other words you could go 2 ranges colder.

Other question is what brand short ram air intake is this. You are better off with a fender well intake (CAI/FWI) to take advantage of the high pressure area behind the headlights and colder air from outside the engine compartment or one that is designed to feed off that area. The stock air box and intake probably does a better job versus a short ram air intake.

For what appears to be a stock engine your KR is on the high side. I can see up to 2 degrees of burst, WOT or even shift KR but you need to get that reduced especially if you plan on going to a smaller supercharger pulley even a 3.5". You will never get it down to zero even with suitable intake and exhaust mods especially with increased boost. A re-programmed PCM module will help and should be installed before doing any further mods.

What brand gas are you using and what octane level? Also, what brand spark plugs, number or heat range. You could get it down by going at least one range colder on the spark plugs which will prep you for the 3.5" SC pulley anyways. In other words you could go 2 ranges colder.

Other question is what brand short ram air intake is this. You are better off with a fender well intake (CAI/FWI) to take advantage of the high pressure area behind the headlights and colder air from outside the engine compartment or one that is designed to feed off that area. The stock air box and intake probably does a better job versus a short ram air intake.

Yeah, I think the high KR is due to the intake temps. When there is colder air coming in, it only gets about 2* of KR.

As for gas, I only use Shell V-Power. It only comes in 91 octane, and the only place in Edmonton I know of with higher is Husky with 92 octane, but I'd much rather fill at Shell than at Husky. As for plugs, I'm running a new set of NGK Iridium (I don't know the heat range, probably whatever is generic (typical) I guess).

The intake is custom, a 45* bend 3.5" to 3.5" coupler with a piece of painted 3.5" exhaust piping with a 3.5" inlet (I think it's 7" length) Air-Raid cone filter (there's no box to keep it cool from the engine temps right now). I do plan on doing a FWI almost immediately, the design with the roof venting used to seperate the filter from the engine bay...there was something about an "intercooled" intake that had PVC with holes in the bottom overtop of ABS piping. It looked like a good idea and the guy was getting much lower temps than that attained with a GOOD aftermarket cold air intake. Unfortunately the site that had it shut down the thread or something, I can't access it anymore, but I do remember the plans, mostly.

I still think the 2.5" DP with the U-bend delete is a good bet too (decent bang for buck) as I've seen on MANY sources it lowers KR and can possibly increase power as well.

I also should ask, has anyone seen any ill-effects from installing the new PCM? I don't want to be adding anything set too aggressive...I do use this car as a daily driver and don't plan on buying something as a spare car at the moment.

Also, does the PCM's wires just "clip" off or something? I noticed when I moved it there is a buttload of wires there...just a simple connection?

91 octane is acceptable but you are better off with the 92-93 if you can get it. The NGK Iridiums are OK but sometimes too hot for the L67 engine even stock. You might consider going to the Autolite Copper Core in 605 (one colder) or 104 (two colder). You'll have to consider canning those plugs if you plan on the 3.5" SC pulley mod.

Basic rule of thumb is any good intake or exhaust mods will either help reduce KR or keep it in check to acceptable levels. Definitely do the u-bend delete, 2.5" dp and even a hi-flow CAT converter, if allowed.

On the PCM module there are two 80 pin connectors that have a single retaining bolt/screw on each connector and then will come off. Just get a Stage 1 DHP v1.0, ZZP v1.0 or Intense PCM. There should be no ill effects and the new PCM will change the timing and spark advance to take full advantage of the intake and exhaust mods. They do a better job of managing KR than the stock one.

I take it I'll need to do CASE-Learn after I install the new PCM (I'll have to order a reprogrammed one and send mine in after...)? I take it the car is safely drivable to a dealership until the CASE-Learn is performed (i live a few blocks away)?

I'll profess ignorance about the "new PCM"...what's the advantage or selling point?

As far as wiring, the PCM should have 2 large weatherpacks on it, uses an 8mm wrench IIRC for a single bolt in the center. One side is essentially inputs and the other side outputs. Use care in seating the connectors before you get to wrenching.

You should be able to drive before the case learn is done although I think the SES will be solid. You can do it with a Tech 2.

The crank variation learn (case learn) is highly recommended but not mandatory.

I've had no problems starting it up after the new PCM was installed. The case learn actually prevents false misfires from occurring. Real misfires will still be detected and the appropriate DTC generated regardless of a case learn.

Most of us purchase ours outright and forget about the core refund. Keep it as a spare. You only have a certain time limit to get the core back for a refund of the $100.00.

IMHO, you want to run up to the advent of ESC activity, and let the ESC sensor back off spark.

If you neuter the calibration so you never get any ESC activity you're not taking full advantage of the engine's potential.

I take it by ESC you mean Electronic Spark Control (spark advance?)

I checked my spark advance this morning...I'm not sure what normal numbers will look like...

I found under regular cruising, I'm sitting at about 30-36. Under heavy load (but low RPM) I'm getting about 15-20 average and under WOT @ above 4500RPM I was getting about 10-15.


I also just found out apparently you can do Case learn with the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge...anyone tried it?

I did some more driving and found I don't really get more than 3* of KR @ WOT...although my spark advance seems to go under 10 if I'm running like 3/4 throttle, jumps up to 14-15 at full.

Does the L67 have issues with part throttle acceleration? I notice my worst knock (5-6* sometimes) happens most at part throttle acceleration (like 60km/h and up...giving enough throttle to accelerate but not enough to have the gear shift or TCC unlock).