best turbo?

iwas wondering what do you guys think is the best turbo for a d16y8 with stock internals is it the t03/04? just wondering what was your oppinion i need to know buying a turbo within the next week or so.

T3/t4 turbo is an awesome setup. The only thing i would consider as an alternative is one of the Gt series turbos from garrett.

Originally posted by Neutrino
T3/t4 turbo is an awesome setup. The only thing i would consider as an alternative is one of the Gt series turbos from garrett.

yeah i thought about the T28 kit that edelbrock is coming out with for my car but i emailed them and they are going to be asking $3500 when it comes out in Spring sometime.

yea, 3500 is expensive, but not for that kit. You get everything, that's a pretty good price. You'd spend almost that much on the greddy kit, then you have to get the intercooler, bov, fuel management. With the jg kit you get the fuel management, intake mani, alot of good stuff. I would use a precision turbo if your making a custom turbo setup though.

Originally posted by civicgsr_T4_60-1
yea, 3500 is expensive, but not for that kit. You get everything, that's a pretty good price. You'd spend almost that much on the greddy kit, then you have to get the intercooler, bov, fuel management.

You're out of your damn mind. Greddy kits go for $1496 from Alamo Autosports (open advertising). You can get if for less if you have a buddy that can get them that cheap. I spend approx $3200 and had the 15G kit, Type 31 FMIC, BOV, Boost controller, and exhaust.

Originally posted by SleeperCivic
You're out of your damn mind. Greddy kits go for $1496 from Alamo Autosports (open advertising). You can get if for less if you have a buddy that can get them that cheap. I spend approx $3200 and had the 15G kit, Type 31 FMIC, BOV, Boost controller, and exhaust.

haha, do you know what you get with that kit. Besides the ball bearing turbo and all those components, you get a complete fuel management and a new intake manifold. See if greddy will give you all that for the same price. Don't get me wrong, i got a new greddy kit, bov, tt, intercooler kit, for less than anyone on this board can find. But i know what it would come out to also, if you went thru greddy. I'm not out of my mind, the price is reasonable for what you get. I'm sure you'll find it much cheaper too. Also, look how much you spent, and you didn't get anything for fuel management but the crappy blue box. now if you plan on running more than 7psi, time for some 310's, afc, fmu, or hondata. So see, now your up above the price for the edelbrock kit. Your got ripped on your price for the greddy anyway.

Well, I bought my Greddy kit 2 years ago and at that time, it was the cheapest on the market. As for the blue box, you're wrong about the 7psi deal. I've ran up to 10psi on the track with the blue box and no problems. I don't know where people get they're info, but it's not correct. Most people are just too scared to run any more boost than that.]

What I'm talking about is that you said you'd have to spend almost $3500 on the Greddy kit, then buy a BOV and such. I bought ALL of that for less than $3500. Also, I can't even use the full amount of boost the 15G puts out as it is, much less handle the boost of a larger turbo.

holy shit, did you just say you can't even use the full amount of boost the 15g puts out. Oh man, your killing me, the 15g is so small, it dies out fast man. You really need to step up to a t3/t4 or maybe a t3 60-1. Anyway, i wasn't trying to argue with you, just saying that the edelbrock kit is a reasonable price for what you kit. Also, even greddy doesn't recommend you taking boost up past it's stock setting which i believe is 5.5 or 6psi.

Originally posted by civicgsr_T4_60-1
Also, even greddy doesn't recommend you taking boost up past it's stock setting which i believe is 5.5 or 6psi.

What?? I've never heard that before. The Greddy 15G will put out 14psi, after that it starts blowing hot air. You might be right about Greddy's recommendation, but you've been misinformed about it's boost levels. And to boot, it spools fast as hell.

No i wasn't misinformed about the greddy boost. I just didn't explain myself well enough. On the blue box with stock everything they don't recommend going past 6psi. 14psi should give you a nice 250whp. I do know that it spools fast and for that reason it dies of in the top end. I gaurentee you won't hold 14psi in the top end. I did have this kit before on my sohc so i do know what i'm talking about.

Originally posted by civicgsr_T4_60-1
No i wasn't misinformed about the greddy boost. I just didn't explain myself well enough.

Okay, cool. :)

are you seriously telling this guy to put a t3/t4 hybrid on a d16 with stock internals? are you guys nuts. your engine would have so much turbo lag plus why such a big turbo if you cant even run high boost levels? get a turbo matched to your car. dont go buying big turbos cause they look cool. if you match the boost curve of the turbo to the power of the car and how much boost it can handle you will be much better off. for a d16 i wouldnt go any bigger then a t3.

hahaha. Yea, you can put a t3/t4 on a d16. Alot of people use the revhard stage 2 kit, which is a t3/t4. I'm sorry buddy, but you've been misinformed. The stock D16 can do just fine with a T3/T4, Inline did a guys car that way and it was running in the 12's. Tunning is the key.

Originally posted by edman24
are you seriously telling this guy to put a t3/t4 hybrid on a d16 with stock internals? are you guys nuts. your engine would have so much turbo lag plus why such a big turbo if you cant even run high boost levels? get a turbo matched to your car. dont go buying big turbos cause they look cool. if you match the boost curve of the turbo to the power of the car and how much boost it can handle you will be much better off. for a d16 i wouldnt go any bigger then a t3.

actually you would be surprised how fast those t3/t4's can spool. Also while on stock internals he can have it set up for ~7 psi. At that boots you are right he would be better off with a t28 lets say but a t3/t4 would allow for more upgrades later on just because its such a versatile turbo.


i also found this quote on another thread and i agree with him.
Originally posted by edman24


a t3/t4, t4 and all larger turbos could be considered top end but there are advantages. if your power comes in later, your car will already be moving and therefore have much less tirespin. since hondas are so light this is good because you dont want to just spin your tires and not go anywhere. also gas mileage. if you spend more time at low rpms and your turbo is not spooled you will be using less gas then in a supercharged engine because the supercharger is producing more boost at lower rpm.

yah you were saying that he runs 12's with a d16 but im sure hes running more then 10psi. thise guys couldnt run over 10 psi without blowing something up first so why sacrifice all that extra lag when you can get a t25 turbo that will work much better for his application? after all he did say he was using stock internals

I'm going to have to agree with edman here. If you are never going to replace the internals go with a smaller turbo. you are only going to be running about 8 pounds of boost anywayz. I put a T3/T4 turbo on my brothers Si(I know different motor) but the eventual plan was to run the motor until it blew then bore it out and put stronger internals in it then boost the piss out of it(which is the stage we are at now).
Also another hint: Contact Drag specialties. They make complete kits with everything including intercoolers for around 3 grand. And you can either have a small turbo or large turbo set up

yes, he was running more than 10psi. Ok ok, not a stock block, but a inline pro headgasket. Excellent tuning and a headgasket, that's all. And this kid is running stock internals. Learn that tunning is key, the nova area has built alot of street cars that run 13's plus on stock internals on d16's. 12's plus in b18's on stock internals.

I hate to bust your bubble, guys, but the D16 stock block and internals can handle WAY more pressure than what you think. Interested in seeing proof? Check out this post (try to have toilet paper on hand just in case you crap your pants):

Here's the power:
http://turbod16.no-ip.com/viewtopic.php?t=835&highlight=boosteded9

And here's the result:
http://turbod16.no-ip.com/viewtopic.php?t=894&highlight=boosteded9

sleeper did you happen to read all the posts on that forum? he said he blew the motor on the next pass. even if it was just a spun bearing do you know what it takes to repair something like that? and no dont tell me the turbo had nothing to do with it. i never said its impossible to run more boost on stock internals. but its definitely not recommended for a street motor. do you actually think he drives that car everyday and has no problems? thats bs. and he did end up busting the rods and ruining the block. so what point are you trying to make? you would still have to upgrade your fuel and ignition to run over 8 psi. at leats i would because i personally dont like running my car at the brink of detonation. but then again thats just me

YES, I've read that post a couple of times, I moderate that forum. Well, I wasn't trying to pick a fight about that, but anyway.....

He blew the motor trying to run 20psi. He had already run 11.8 in the 1/4 and wanted to go faster, so he upped the boost to 20psi, but forgot to compensate with fuel.

YES, it's strictly a track car, I never said it's a daily driver. If you take a look at it, you can see it's not a daily driver. I don't think we were talking about driveability, we were talking about how much the D16 could take on stock internals, right?

Anywho, he had been running 15-16psi for almost a year on that motor. THAT is a strong motor. But maybe he got one of those "special" D16's......:rolleyes:

Originally posted by edman24
so what point are you trying to make? you would still have to upgrade your fuel and ignition to run over 8 psi. at leats i would because i personally dont like running my car at the brink of detonation. but then again thats just me

Did I have an argument with you before about this shit? Running more than 8psi does NOT require fuel upgrades, unless you consider the Greddy blue box a fuel upgrade. In fact, I don't consider it a fuel upgrade. If that were true, a Vortech FMU would be considered a fuel upgrade, even thought the integral parts of the fuel system (injectors, rail, pump, and pressure) remain the same. I agree that upgrades are recommended, but I've ran 10psi with JUST the blue box. But then again, that's just me.

no we never had an argument before and i wouldnt try to start one with you because i know you know what you are talking about. i was merely asking what point you were trying to make for a few reasons. i assumed it was implied that we were considering the drivability of the car after turbocharging. second because i consider all mods no matter how small to be mods of the fuel system. yes even the blue box. if its not stock then what is it, a mod. and yes i know the d16 is a strong engine and can take more then 10 psi but is it safe? this one application lasted yes but that doesnt mean you should all go out get d16's and boost them like crazy. id like to see more testing to prove that it can handle 15 psi on a daily driven d16.

did i explain myself well enough?

Yep, sure did. I'm also interested to see how far these motors can be pushed. I might even test it out mysefl.........when I get another car!

t02 my good man

Hate to bring back an old post, but I just couldn't stand it.

Sleeper, if you ran 10psi on a SOHC VTEC with stock fuel, what was your a/f? I'd love to see that 17:1 ratio.

All I know is that my AFR gauge was pegged all the way to rich. :D Greddy kits come with the blue box piggy back unit.

An A/F guage is NOT an efficient tool to tune by, your stock O2 sensor can't judge your true a/f ratio.
The blue box will not be able to get your injectors to where you need to be for 10psi. Sorry. The blue box is just a hack, not sufficient for tuning.

See www.hondata.com for a good solution. For the sake of your motor, don't run 10psi. 240cc injectors can't push out enough. Not to mention your stock fuel pump... ouch.

How long did you run 10psi? I was running 17psi for a day or so, very fast. I ran 9psi for quite some time with just a fuel pump, it lasted about 6 months before it blew. 2 days before my injectors arrived.

Ya know, for 3500, you can get the F-MAX kit, complete with additonal injectors, MSD DIS-2 ignition, and an rIDEAL head gasket. Which makes more power than any of those kits.

Originally posted by Cronic
An A/F guage is NOT an efficient tool to tune by, your stock O2 sensor can't judge your true a/f ratio.
The blue box will not be able to get your injectors to where you need to be for 10psi. Sorry. The blue box is just a hack, not sufficient for tuning.

See www.hondata.com for a good solution. For the sake of your motor, don't run 10psi. 240cc injectors can't push out enough. Not to mention your stock fuel pump... ouch.

How long did you run 10psi? I was running 17psi for a day or so, very fast. I ran 9psi for quite some time with just a fuel pump, it lasted about 6 months before it blew. 2 days before my injectors arrived.

I've ran 10psi on the stock fuel system and the blue box for over a year. You must have had a bad install.

And no one ever said the blue box is tuneable. And YES it's capable of supporting not just 10psi, but 11psi. I've proven that time and time again. It's obvious you've taken your experience and drawn YOUR OWN guidelines for what the kit can do, not what it can really do.

Let the experienced people do the talking and keep your bad experiences to just that: a bad experience. Sounds like a bad install to me. Also, you ran 17psi?? That's not very smart in the first place and that's probably why your damn motor blew, so don't blame it on a turbo kit. That's the fault of the user. I hope you have better luck and foresight on not destroying your motor in the future.

Originally posted by Cronic
See www.hondata.com

Hodata sucks, straight up. For the price you'll end up paying for their unit, the extra wiring, and tuning, you might as well have bought a stand-alone Haltech unit. The V-AFC hack is cheaper and works just as well for what people really need it for: fuel control.

Originally posted by SleeperCivic


Hodata sucks, straight up. For the price you'll end up paying for their unit, the extra wiring, and tuning, you might as well have bought a stand-alone Haltech unit. The V-AFC hack is cheaper and works just as well for what people really need it for: fuel control.

That's a pretty bland statement, why don't you state why you think that. Haltech is nice, but hondata is probably the most user friendly system out there. The afc hack, well it's just a poor man's standalone. I don't like it one bit. I have 3 friends that run it and only one of their cars is on the road at any given time and it's always fuel related. Also, when the hack or the afc/fmu setup can't support what some high hp street honda's need. The hack is only good for 450cc's i believe, i haven't heard anyone going bigger. And the afc/fmu was only good on my car personally for up to 550cc injectors. That limits the tunning ability of a car alot.

Hey if anyones interested in the Edelbrock turbokit for $3200 shipped let me know. [email protected]

Well the AFC can't trim 550cc injectors down enough for a D16. A larger motor can handle the extra fuel and trim the injectors down properly. It sounds as though your friends using the hack have some configuration problems. I haven't had one issue with mine as of yet - been installed for 4 months now.

Originally posted by SleeperCivic


I've ran 10psi on the stock fuel system and the blue box for over a year. You must have had a bad install.

And no one ever said the blue box is tuneable. And YES it's capable of supporting not just 10psi, but 11psi. I've proven that time and time again. It's obvious you've taken your experience and drawn YOUR OWN guidelines for what the kit can do, not what it can really do.

Let the experienced people do the talking and keep your bad experiences to just that: a bad experience. Sounds like a bad install to me. Also, you ran 17psi?? That's not very smart in the first place and that's probably why your damn motor blew, so don't blame it on a turbo kit. That's the fault of the user. I hope you have better luck and foresight on not destroying your motor in the future.

First off dipshit. Don't start a flame war. I never blamed my motor blowing on the kit. I do all my turbo kits custom.

You obviously don't know the first thing about fuel or tuning. 10psi with no fuel upgrades (no an S/VAFC or a Blue box is not fuel upgrades). You were LUCKY not to have toasted your piston rings, if you never put your car on a wideband o2, don't talk shit. My turbo was small enough I could run 17psi on pump gas for a couple hours. Which I did. The motor didn't blow until 5 months later when I had boost creep racing an eclipse. 14psi, no knock sensor, no injectors. boom.

Very simple concept. If you had injectors, and a fuel pump, or at LEAST a pump I can see your car lasting on 10psi for a time. Im sure your a/f was ~14+:1. Ive seen hundreds of dyno's and tuned several cars with SAFC+450cc's Im not a newbie to this. On a side note, Ive never used the blue box, I know it's a bandaid, just like an S/Vafc, it may VERY WELL be capable of 10 or 11psi WITH FUEL UPGRADES, that is what my argument was about. You also cannot buy a haltec for 500 bucks like you can Hondata. If you've ever used or tuned Hondata, you will realize how powerful of a tool it really is. Ive watched Hondata pull 75hp alone from just tuning an IGNITION map. The AFC hack is unreliable and brings unwanted side effects at times to obd2b ecu's. It will randomly throw barro codes, sometimes make daily driving jolty and is in no way an effective way of tuning. I ran the hack for 4 months on my setup and managed to lose hp over 310cc injectors, the safc, and FMU tuned on a dyno.

PS: The guy with the CRX running stock internals and 16psi was prolly NOT using the hack. I bet he had a LOT of tuning time under his belt. On a dyno. Not with his EGT and stock o2 A/F guage.

Well i'd like to see anyone trying to use my 880cc injectors with the afc hack or the afc fmu setup without having a modified ecu of some sort. The afc can trim the 550cc's for the d16. I used to run fmu 12:1 disk, afc, 550cc's and a 255lph intank pump on mine. regardless, my point was that hondata isn't junk and you still didn't answer why you think it is. I have nothing but good things to say about it. AEM, Haltech, etc. all of them are good, it just depends on what you know how to use.

Originally posted by civicgsr_T4_60-1
Well i'd like to see anyone trying to use my 880cc injectors with the afc hack or the afc fmu setup without having a modified ecu of some sort. The afc can trim the 550cc's for the d16. I used to run fmu 12:1 disk, afc, 550cc's and a 255lph intank pump on mine. regardless, my point was that hondata isn't junk and you still didn't answer why you think it is. I have nothing but good things to say about it. AEM, Haltech, etc. all of them are good, it just depends on what you know how to use.

At least someone with expierence can speak.
SleeperCivic:
I wonder if you've ever used Hondata before? Ever watched the tuning process? Seen the interface? Called Hondata for support? They are the most helpful team of guys Ive ever heard of. They're super active in the tuner industry, and they're always able to support their product. For the money, you can NOT get a better stand alone system. It sounds to me like your listening to hearsay.

Originally posted by Cronic


At least someone with expierence can speak.
SleeperCivic:
I wonder if you've ever used Hondata before? Ever watched the tuning process? Seen the interface? Called Hondata for support? They are the most helpful team of guys Ive ever heard of. They're super active in the tuner industry, and they're always able to support their product. For the money, you can NOT get a better stand alone system. It sounds to me like your listening to hearsay.

Thank you cronic. I love the hondata, it's worked great for me untill i accidentally ripped out some wires, lol. But the funny thing is with aem, the only person's that works properly all the time is stephen papadakis(spelling), but he's got a AEM sponsored car. They are also not the easiest people to get ahold of. Haltech, i watched as a friend tried to have his car tuned, it's a very crude system, not the easiest in the world. For honda's, i say hondata is the way to go.

Also, sleeper, 10psi. I ran the greddy kit on my car. Did you read the manual at all, it specifically states not to go over 5.5 or 6psi on their kit because that's all the blue box is capable of handling fuel wise. I ran 10psi on my car too. But i had a afc, stock injectors and a 255lph intank pump. But guess what, the blue box and the afc together still couldn't push the amount of fuel needed. Motor blew on me. I ran faster times on the stock boost setting than i did turning it up. The small greddy kit is not meant to be a track monster.

The turbo on the Greedy kit.. what size is it? 18g? I seem to recall a kit comming with that turbo. Im not too fond of Mitsu turbos on anything but DSM's. :D
W/O some wideband data I don't believe a word of 10psi and stock fuel system. You woulda been very lean, dangerously so.

On a stock fuel system, with just an FMU I made 157whp @ 6.5psi with a 14:1 a/f. This was on a 40 trim t3 turbo, smaller I believe then your 18g. Meaning you would be learner still then I was @ 6.5psi. Even with proper retard, and charge cooling I bet your motor was detonating pretty bad.

Out of curiosity, why aren't you still running 10psi?

The turbo on the greddy kit for the sohc motors is a 15g. Yea, there is no way i could see someone safely running 10psi without some reading. Especially not running 10psi off just the blue box alone. Wow, 14.1 a/f, that's pretty dangerous. Not a bad number at all, but very lean. If you are asking why i stoped running 10psi on that motor, well, it ran slower from not getting the proper amount of fuel to it. Also, i stopped running that amount once the motor blew:D . I do run 10psi daily on my current setup, but it's not a gsr swap with a much bigger turbo and completely different fuel setup.

I actually meant him. I ended up blowing my motor too, hehe. boost crept up on me and I didn't see it. 14psi @ 6500rpm in 4th. boom. Welded the ringlands together, it was a sight to see when we tore down the block. Hahaha. A 15g flows about the same as a 40 trim, So Im sure he was very lean.

Amazingly with my 14:1 a/f we had NO detonation throughout the powerband, and it actually made power all the way to the rev limiter. I wish I woulda had some more RPMs to see where she would've tapered off at.

Unfortunatly my car hasn't run right since. So Im going bigger. ;)

believe me bigger is always better. Seeing the look of bikers faces as i walk them is amazing.

Originally posted by Cronic
Ive never used the blue box, I know it's a bandaid, just like an S/Vafc, it may VERY WELL be capable of 10 or 11psi WITH FUEL UPGRADES, that is what my argument was about.PS: The guy with the CRX running stock internals and 16psi was prolly NOT using the hack. I bet he had a LOT of tuning time under his belt. On a dyno. Not with his EGT and stock o2 A/F guage.

Well, I might not be as experienced as you with the Hondata, but you sure as shit don't have a clue about the blue box. None of you do. I've been on this board for a long time running 10psi on the street for a LONG TIME and haven't had any problems. And you people are blowing motors? WTF does that tell you? Shitty installs and bad maintenance. Take that as you will, but I KNOW the blue box can put out.

Originally posted by Cronic
PS: The guy with the CRX running stock internals and 16psi was prolly NOT using the hack. I bet he had a LOT of tuning time under his belt. On a dyno. Not with his EGT and stock o2 A/F guage.

YES, he was running the hack. Your "probably" statements suck. If he didn't use the hack, I wouldn't have mentioned it. I guess now you're going to say the block wasn't stock?? Yeah, it was. Just had a headgasket and fuel system with a V-AFC and D16Y8. Idiot (I guess this is a flame war now...) :flipa:

Originally posted by Cronic
On a stock fuel system, with just an FMU I made 157whp @ 6.5psi with a 14:1 a/f. This was on a 40 trim t3 turbo, smaller I believe then your 18g. Meaning you would be learner still then I was @ 6.5psi. Even with proper retard, and charge cooling I bet your motor was detonating pretty bad.

Out of curiosity, why aren't you still running 10psi?

No detonation. By using a speed calculator, I have between 189 and 200 whp. I'm still running 10psi everyday, but at the track I only run 8psi. Since I've installed the hack, I've got a lot more power and have SERIOUS traction issues. I still run low 14's, but the SPEC clutch hits hard when I get into 2nd, so I have to let off and get back into it. Other than that it screams.

So like. If your injectors are 100% duty cycle, the blue box will make them go 110% to compensate for more boost?

This has NEVER been about the blue box. I said fuel dude. Im sure a blue box would work with 310cc's but since you have stock. Im waiting for the boom. :D

Compression check that motor for us. :D

Originally posted by SleeperCivic


Well, I might not be as experienced as you with the Hondata, but you sure as shit don't have a clue about the blue box. None of you do. I've been on this board for a long time running 10psi on the street for a LONG TIME and haven't had any problems. And you people are blowing motors? WTF does that tell you? Shitty installs and bad maintenance. Take that as you will, but I KNOW the blue box can put out.

Ok, again, still no backing for your comment on hondata other than you don't like a system that you don't understand.
Of course, why would i know anything about the blue box or what it's capable of, hell i only had it on my car for well over a year. None of us do?, well i guess your the only one that can run that much boost with just the blue box and no other fuel mods. I would believe you if you said you have a fuel pump, bigger injectors and a afc. The simple fact is, the stock injectors are running about 100% duty cycle at 7 or 8psi with just the blue box.
Just because you've been on the board for a little bit, doesn't mean you know a damn thing, it means you sit on the boards all day.
I blew up one motor and that was from trying to run the same amount of boost as you with more fuel modifications and better tunning than what the blue box alone can do. It tells me that the blue box can't support the amount of fuel needed to be forced into the motor for higher boost levels.
Take this as you will, i know what i'm talking about, when you hit low 11's in a street car, then we can talk.


EDIT: lol, i hope your car is a automatic. Hell on 5psi i was hitting mid 14's in my ex coupe, full interior, and my car was automatic and your just getting low 14's on 10psi.

He's prolly losing power from that 17:1 a/f ratio. lmao.

Dude, we're not trying to be dicks and tell you how big of a mistake your making. We're trying to educate you on the situation. It's hard to build a turbo kit wrong, asside from mismatching turbo sizes to cars or craftsmanship. Your not gonna blow your motor by installing a turbo kit wrong... Can one even do that? *shakes head*

We seem to be slightly better versed on FI then you do. Ive only been at this for a year and a couple months, Ive seen, been around, and learned alot being around tuners in this time. Don't be so closed minded and think you know everything. Because to the people who really do know. Your just serving as entertainment.

PS: This is what WILL happen to a D16y8 without proper fuel supplied. Don't think it hasn't already begun. Chances are the white/blue-grey smoke commin outa your exhaust ISNT from the turbo seals. :D
http://chaos-kitten.net/images/Honda/cyl2.jpg

I second that

Just because you've been on the board for a little bit, doesn't mean you know a damn thing, it means you sit on the boards all day.

hehe :cool:

hello i begin a project and i need help

88 civic wagon 4wd
d16y8 stock si intake
srp forged piston 9.0 comp
gready turbo kit + cooler 10 or 15 psi daily driven

i want to know, some thing about fuel upgrade.

actualy have stock injector and fuel pump

what kind of injector i need. dsm or prelude?
i can have 98 sir fuel pump it is ok? or is the same like my 88 si?

thanks to all!!!!!

civic4wd
www.geocities.com/civic4wd
[email protected]

man go with the jg kit that shits phat t3 t4 is kinda big for a lil gay d15 i know i have a d15 im not trying to flame but that jg kit is pretty phat its a nice ass setup.

Originally posted by civic4wd
hello i begin a project and i need help

88 civic wagon 4wd
d16y8 stock si intake
srp forged piston 9.0 comp
gready turbo kit + cooler 10 or 15 psi daily driven

i want to know, some thing about fuel upgrade.

actualy have stock injector and fuel pump

what kind of injector i need. dsm or prelude?
i can have 98 sir fuel pump it is ok? or is the same like my 88 si?

thanks to all!!!!!

civic4wd
www.geocities.com/civic4wd
[email protected]

What you want is this. A vortec fmu 12:1, rc 440cc injectors, vafc, and a 255lph intank pump. I can give you the settings from what i had on my d16y8 with my greddy kit. Ran 10psi daily. Or you could go with hondata s200, 255lph intank and some 440's.

I'm all about the rev hard kits. I just bought one for 3250 with a ball bearing turbo. I can't complain.