89 civic

guys im not sure the size of my axle nut. i tried a 30mm socket and it was too small. i want to know before i buy the 20 dollar socket and have to return it. also what oil goes in the tranny. i'm pulling the motor since its gone and replacing the clutch at the same time.

so far i have everything but the axles disconnected.

thanks for any help.

i'm also curious if its worth putting better synth oil in a tranny with over 300,000 miles on it.

thanks again
dario

I'm gonna suggest GM syncromesh for the tranny fluid, as for the axle nut, i use either a 1-1/4 socket or a 32mm

thanks dude. thats all i need. i dont think i'll buy gm fluid though. i'd prefer to go to napa, az, or kragens. or get it mailed. not a big fan of a dealer unless needed.

The GM Syncromesh, from what I have heard, is one of the best things for our transmissions. I haven't actually used it, but I usually just fill it with Castrol 10w30 and some Lucas if I think the transmission needs it.

As for the axle nuts: 32mm. I actually picked up a set of 1/2" Impact sockets from Harbor freight for $20 that went all the way to 32mm. I don't have a 1/2" wrench, just the breaker bar, but for the price I couldn't pass it up. Plus its impact sockets, even the cheap ones take a damn beating.

werd on that.

for the socket go to advance auto parts, i recently went there and they have a axle nut socket set that's a loaner... pay $50 and when you return it get it all back :thumbsup:

Just go buy one, its worth it. Even a cheap impact socket will be perfectly fine. It is really hard to break an impact socket.

I like keeping my parts store trips to a minimum, and an axle nut socket is something you can use on a lot of jobs. Even though I can pull a engine/tranny without removing the axles from the spindle, but its easier that way sometimes.

As can I... but it's easier that way ALL the time... as far as I'm concerned lol... unless you end up rounding the axle nuts.. then I usually get a nut breaker in there and crack it in two places and replace the nut... either way, I still get those damn axles out.

Not really ALL the time. Most of the time if I'm just removing the engine/tranny, I leave the axles in the spindle because I don't see a reason to remove it...unless I'm having issues popping the axle out of the transmission, then I want the extra room and less weight on it. But other than that, its easier to just pop it out of the tranny, disconnect the lower ball joint, and pull the spindle out a little to clear the axle from the tranny.

OK, yeah... I do that SOMETIMES.. Not often though... I usually just pull the things out... just b/c it's easier for ME. lol

well i bought honda mtf after looking up the gm stuff. i also got the motor/tranny out yesterday. i could have just left the axles in the spindles but i like removing them.

i'm getting excited i cant wait to get my civic back. i love the super good gas mileage. been driving my valiant the last few months and its so expensive.

thanks guys
dario

The GM Syncromesh, from what I have heard, is one of the best things for our transmissions. I haven't actually used it, but I usually just fill it with Castrol 10w30 and some Lucas if I think the transmission needs it.

As for the axle nuts: 32mm. I actually picked up a set of 1/2" Impact sockets from Harbor freight for $20 that went all the way to 32mm. I don't have a 1/2" wrench, just the breaker bar, but for the price I couldn't pass it up. Plus its impact sockets, even the cheap ones take a damn beating.
that is a good price...the one that I got (craftsman) was half that price already. The BasT*ard at honda made the civic and accord different sizes making me go out and get a 34mm...:banghead:

so today i got changed the rear main seal installed flywheel and clutch,tranny. swaped alot of the motor mount parts. and new oil pan gasket.

what kind of puller do you guys use to get the belt pulley off? the last one i had the pulley just pulled off. but this one wont budge. hoping for harbor freight to buy or az or kragens has a loaner, i just want to know what you guys are using, i noticed the length of the screw must be pretty long. since the pulley sticks out so much further then where the bolt goes into the crank.

is it worth putting on a camshaft seal now? or should i wait. i havent checked my manual to see whats involved at its at my friends house with my car.

thanks guys
dario

If you must use a puller, use a 3-jaw puller, and put the bolt back into the crank a few threads, so you don't damage the crank... those threads are very difficult to repair, and if you don't do it properly, you'll have an off-balance crank with everything bolted back on it.

i got the motor installed and finished. got it started. i have to time the engine. i can tell its running retarded, but it runs and thats always good news. i guess i'm paranoid. lol

but when it started it was ticking. pretty sure its not the motor. i pushed in the clutch, and i did adjust it before starting the car. and the ticking was much much louder. and after about a minute it went away. just putting the car in reverse the ticking starts to fade away after a few seconds and then is gone till i start it again. i'm curious if anyone knows why it ticks every time i start it. if i let it idle with out touching anything the ticking goes away.

i drove the car about 7 miles so far, and even with the retarded timing its much faster then it was with the older motor. granted there was almost 400,000 miles on it.

anyway if anyone has a clue, please let me know. i'm very curious. i put in new honda mtf till it leaked outta the filler plug. i did notice the tranny is really rough at first then its super super smooth. i use to have to put it into second gear when coming to a stop just to get it into first. but after its ran a little bit its ultra smooth, and it falls into first.

thanks guys.

i'm so excited to get my honda back.

ticking noise == probably valves.

If the noise stops, it could be something that's not so far out of whack that it will hurt anything... but you could probably deal with a valve lash adjustment.

Another possibility is that you have one or two bearings going bad... as the pressure of the oil builds up, it might be enough to lube them up and stop them from ticking... same theory with the valves.

Anyway GL diagnosing and fixing this.

The tranny being tight could be two things:

Somewhat worn synchro's, which would have more indicators, like light grinds, etc..

ill-adjusted or warped clutch disk/pressure plate/flywheel.

The clutch won't spin down properly when you press the pedal, which keeps power to the tranny, and the synchro's then won't allow the tranny into gear without forcing it or grinding, which is why you're having to "trick it" by lining up second gear (same gear shaft) then quick putting it into first.

i have no idea. but i do know the clutch/flywheel pressure plate are all brand new and working perfectly. i'm gonna pull out my stethoscope and track it down. it goes away so soon.

i dont know why it gets louder when i depress the clutch pedal.

thanks

That kinda tells me that the problem/noise lies in the bearings, or the thrust washers... if not both.

When you push in the clutch, it puts something like 500 lbs against the crankshaft's rear (flywheel) obviously, the crankshaft is going to move a lil bit... that's what the thrust washers are for, they go in front of one of the bearing journals, and the crankshaft rides against it, so that no damage can come from the extra pressure.

**note, this is why you don't sit at red lights with the clutch pressed in... take the damn car out of gear (also alot to do with throwout/release bearings).**

Anyway, if the noise gets louder when you're pushing in the clutch, I'd probably say it's one of those things... but it could be anything in the driveline... and if you say that your transmission has problems until it warms up, it could even be a bearing in the tranny or the release bearing, or even the pilot bearing... mine makes a semi-scraping noise if I let the car out of gear w/ the clutch engaged (pedal out) while it's running... but it doesn't bother me, I know my pilot bearing is shot.

i replaced the bearings. one thing i know i didnt do is tighten the dampner to the 119 ft lbs. i still have to do that. is that, that critical?

thanks dude
dario

The GM Syncromesh, from what I have heard, is one of the best things for our transmissions. I haven't actually used it, but I usually just fill it with Castrol 10w30 and some Lucas if I think the transmission needs it.



Syncromesh is kick ass...but I wouldn't throw it in until you have issues like gear grinds.

thanks dude. thats all i need. i dont think i'll buy gm fluid though. i'd prefer to go to napa, az, or kragens. or get it mailed. not a big fan of a dealer unless needed.

the simple Honda fluid you got was fine.

as a rule you should always try to get your parts at honda. no joke, you never know what you'll get from other places. and NEVER trust Napa for belts as a rule!

customers bring us napa belts they bought and we make them take them back. they NEVER fit...I don't know if they end up in the wrong package or what but it's garbage.


goes back to the golden rule of "you get what you pay for"

I've never had anything that actually needed to be bought from Honda directly, other than some bolts and such, just to keep OEM stuff on there.

If it comes down to an important part, I'll get it from Honda tho... except my rear 1/4's... still looking for something cheaper than $320 a side.

But basically, I'll try getting it from a junkyard, if it's worth it, if not, I'll get it from Honda.. most of the seals, I'd either get from there, or from specific stores of AutoZone or Advance where I know everyone there... but I usually buy belts from those places too, since I never buy the belt that's actually "for the car". I just measure one, and if it fits, I get it. (They always let me go pull my own parts, b/c I know everyone there.)

Anyway, I can't personally vouch for Honda parts, other than I know that OEM is almost always best, allbeit not always cheapest, but I'd still recommend it... especially since new spark plug ring seals are like $1 each from Honda, they're about $15 for 4 from most parts stores.