Smallest enclosed trailer to fit these cars?
eric1h
08-05-2008, 12:48 PM
Any of you using an enclosed trailer? if so, whats the smallest you've used? been lookng at either an 18x8.5 or 20x8.5, but want the smallest trailer I can comfortably fit the car in. trying to save on weight and gas mileage!
Thanks
Thanks
C-Sicz
08-05-2008, 01:27 PM
I'd say go with the 20'. You gotta leave yourself some room to strap it down!
Gatorac
08-05-2008, 01:51 PM
I have a 20'. There's room for my tool chest in front of the car. You could get away with an 18' if you don't plan on putting anything but the car in the trailer.
Check your axle capacity and trailer weight prior to purchase. Mine wieghs 3900 lbs. If it had the standard 3500lb axles, it would only leave 3100lbs for the car and cargo. Go for the 5k lb axles.
Check your axle capacity and trailer weight prior to purchase. Mine wieghs 3900 lbs. If it had the standard 3500lb axles, it would only leave 3100lbs for the car and cargo. Go for the 5k lb axles.
Jim woodruff
08-05-2008, 03:52 PM
I have a 20'. There's room for my tool chest in front of the car. You could get away with an 18' if you don't plan on putting anything but the car in the trailer.
Check your axle capacity and trailer weight prior to purchase. Mine wieghs 3900 lbs. If it had the standard 3500lb axles, it would only leave 3100lbs for the car and cargo. Go for the 5k lb axles.
I would not go with anything less than 24 foot. There is little resale value in the small units because of the lack of room. You can not drive the panos into the trailer so you need room for a winch to pull it in. I have 3" on each side between the wheel wells going in forward and you need a lot of room to tie the front down. I don't want to sound like doom and gloom but in this case longer is better. Look for a good used trailer w/7000lb axles and you won't have many problems. As a side note my Panoz won't even fit on my alum trailer
Check your axle capacity and trailer weight prior to purchase. Mine wieghs 3900 lbs. If it had the standard 3500lb axles, it would only leave 3100lbs for the car and cargo. Go for the 5k lb axles.
I would not go with anything less than 24 foot. There is little resale value in the small units because of the lack of room. You can not drive the panos into the trailer so you need room for a winch to pull it in. I have 3" on each side between the wheel wells going in forward and you need a lot of room to tie the front down. I don't want to sound like doom and gloom but in this case longer is better. Look for a good used trailer w/7000lb axles and you won't have many problems. As a side note my Panoz won't even fit on my alum trailer
Squerly
08-05-2008, 04:28 PM
I would not go with anything less than 24 foot. There is little resale value in the small units because of the lack of room. You can not drive the panos into the trailer so you need room for a winch to pull it in. I have 3" on each side between the wheel wells going in forward and you need a lot of room to tie the front down. I don't want to sound like doom and gloom but in this case longer is better. Look for a good used trailer w/7000lb axles and you won't have many problems. As a side note my Panoz won't even fit on my alum trailerYep, I agree. I have a 24' trailer also and it's comfortable, but I wouldn't want anything shorter. I put my Porsche in the same trailer and have enough extra room to throw a party, but the Panoz quickly eats up that extra room when it's his turn to play...
jmimac351
08-06-2008, 09:21 PM
I have a 20' trailer that has an extra 3' for V-nose. The size is perfect for my use. I drive my car onto the trailer with no problem - just someone to line me up.
Blue Streak 21
08-06-2008, 10:08 PM
I have a 24 ft trailer. Plain-Jane white with a side door. I too drive the Panoz on and off the trailer without too much trouble. A guide is great, especially for going into the trailer. You do have to get out of the car like the NASCAR boys. Climbing out the window is always an agility test. :grinyes:
I like the extra 6 ft of room in front of the car for extra wheel and tool storage. The car is soooo low that I had to make a set of 10 foot ramps to get the car on and off the trailer without dragging the front air dam.
I picked up the trailer used. It's a 10 yr old Haul Mark. It took a little TLC, like painting the floors and doors, but it was one third the cost of a new trailer.
Check the electric brakes if you buy used. Make sure that they have been maintained properly, and that the emergency brake system works.
I like the extra 6 ft of room in front of the car for extra wheel and tool storage. The car is soooo low that I had to make a set of 10 foot ramps to get the car on and off the trailer without dragging the front air dam.
I picked up the trailer used. It's a 10 yr old Haul Mark. It took a little TLC, like painting the floors and doors, but it was one third the cost of a new trailer.
Check the electric brakes if you buy used. Make sure that they have been maintained properly, and that the emergency brake system works.
Squerly
08-07-2008, 05:42 AM
The car is soooo low that I had to make a set of 10 foot ramps to get the car on and off the trailer without dragging the front air dam.
I've had that problem on just about every car/trailer combination I've ever had. But for the last several years I've keep a small set of portable car ramps, (the kind you might use to change your oil) in the back of my truck and when I'm ready to unload the car I put them under the rear truck tires and back up on them. This raises the front of the trailer and subsequently lowers the back of the trailer enough that my car drives right off with no issues.
One the car is unloaded, and you have driven back off the ramps, put one of them behind one of the trailer tires and the other ramp in front of the other trailer tire. This keeps the trailer from rolling around if the parking space is not exactly level. Unhook the trailer and your done!
I've had that problem on just about every car/trailer combination I've ever had. But for the last several years I've keep a small set of portable car ramps, (the kind you might use to change your oil) in the back of my truck and when I'm ready to unload the car I put them under the rear truck tires and back up on them. This raises the front of the trailer and subsequently lowers the back of the trailer enough that my car drives right off with no issues.
One the car is unloaded, and you have driven back off the ramps, put one of them behind one of the trailer tires and the other ramp in front of the other trailer tire. This keeps the trailer from rolling around if the parking space is not exactly level. Unhook the trailer and your done!
mhowington
08-07-2008, 07:09 PM
I've had that problem on just about every car/trailer combination I've ever had. But for the last several years I've keep a small set of portable car ramps, (the kind you might use to change your oil) in the back of my truck and when I'm ready to unload the car I put them under the rear truck tires and back up on them. This raises the front of the trailer and subsequently lowers the back of the trailer enough that my car drives right off with no issues.
One the car is unloaded, and you have driven back off the ramps, put one of them behind one of the trailer tires and the other ramp in front of the other trailer tire. This keeps the trailer from rolling around if the parking space is not exactly level. Unhook the trailer and your done!
Ya know, thats actually a very good idea. The ramps can also serve as chocks ;) (old flying habit, I cringe as most people dont use them!). Ive also toyed with a way to secure the tydex, but be able to move or remove it for loading as thats usually a major problem as well. However... in the dark places of my lab ive still not had a light bulb go off.
One the car is unloaded, and you have driven back off the ramps, put one of them behind one of the trailer tires and the other ramp in front of the other trailer tire. This keeps the trailer from rolling around if the parking space is not exactly level. Unhook the trailer and your done!
Ya know, thats actually a very good idea. The ramps can also serve as chocks ;) (old flying habit, I cringe as most people dont use them!). Ive also toyed with a way to secure the tydex, but be able to move or remove it for loading as thats usually a major problem as well. However... in the dark places of my lab ive still not had a light bulb go off.
mhowington
08-07-2008, 08:02 PM
Hey Eric:
I just talked to Steve and he said "they" (not sure who they are) made a 16' that allowed enough room to haul the car and secure while it transit. Ill try to get more detail. However, I agree with the other replies, although it would help the personal economy and the envrionment, you still want to go a bit bigger to have a little wiggle room.
I just talked to Steve and he said "they" (not sure who they are) made a 16' that allowed enough room to haul the car and secure while it transit. Ill try to get more detail. However, I agree with the other replies, although it would help the personal economy and the envrionment, you still want to go a bit bigger to have a little wiggle room.
carhauler
08-27-2008, 12:16 PM
My suggestion for top quality enclosed trailers would be: GoldRush Trailers (goldrushsales.com) and Tommy's Trailers (tommystrailers.com). I've owned trailers from both of these Folks and they each build a very nice trailer... extremely strong and good resale. All aluminum as well.
I'd go at least 20' but 24' will give you the extra room you'll need for tools, parts, tires etc. The rubber torsion suspension on Tommys Trailers gives your car a great ride, much better than the standard spring ride most other builders use. I pull our Tommys Trailer behind our Bus at 70 or 75 without a problem.
I'd go at least 20' but 24' will give you the extra room you'll need for tools, parts, tires etc. The rubber torsion suspension on Tommys Trailers gives your car a great ride, much better than the standard spring ride most other builders use. I pull our Tommys Trailer behind our Bus at 70 or 75 without a problem.
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