Polyurethane bushings

Where can I buy poly. swaybar bushings? Just in case my handling kit ever shows up.

Energy Suspension makes poly-bushings for the Intrigue, Im not sure of the exact part #. You might have to look for the Grand Prix instead though.

Personally, the ones by Moog would be my choice and available at several auto parts stores, I got mine at O'reillys. I cant remember what material they are, Summit Racing sells them as a performance part, but the part # is identical to the ones I got from Oreillys for half the price.

I trashed the rubber ones that came with the kit fairly quickly, I replaced them with the Moog ones and they have held up immensely better.


EDIT: I got on Summit's Website and looked them up, they call the material Thermoplastic, I dont know how it compares to Polyurethane. But I do know theyre cheaper than Energy Suspension bushings. Summit sells the kit for $7.39, RockAuto has it for $3.64, cheapest way would probably be to get it from your local store if you wanted to go that route.

Here is the link to Summit Racing:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOG%2DK5342&view=1&N=700+150+

LH -Your link was for the end link bushings, which I'm also looking for, but just to be clear the frame mount bushings also need to be upgraded right? Did you chew through the frame mounts or the end links? I've called Autozone, NAPA, Carquest, Advance, & Murray's (no O'Reilly's in Illinois). Murray's is the only one that has anything. They have the Energy Suspension frame mount bushings ($18.99) & end link bushings (10.99) in poly. I don't see where Rockauto's Moog parts state what material their's are made out of.

My GMPP Handling kit was delivered today. The components were all just cling wrapped together on each end. I knew I was in for problems when I saw a nut laying on my porch. The hardware bag for the strut tower bar was torn open & missing parts, not sure if I'll be mounting that particular STB anyway, more importantly one of the rear trailing arms is bent. Called the number on the label, put on hold, cut off 4 times. Getting satisfaction on this should be fun. Oh well, I've got my stab. bar to keep me busy, then the struts. BTW, the bushings in the trailing arms are like cream cheese, a short screwdriver with minimal pressure easily distorts the bushings. Maybe poly here too? Can't believe I got a bent one, easy install now wait.

On the upside my daughters boyfriend (& father) with a '98 Bonny SSEI (160,000 mi.) that I've been helping him keep on the road says that I can have it when he goes to college in a few weeks. Would that drivetrain drop into my Intrigue fairly easily?

I'm like TiVo, delayed behind others that have done this stuff years ago.

any autoparts store that feature moog suspension parts

Try this Google search: http://www.google.com/search?q=Moog+Suspension+parts&rls=com.microsoft:*:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7DKUS

wow, Im sorry to hear your experience with GMPD hasnt been so good. Although it almost sounds like its more of a shipping issue than anything. Thats how I received mine as well, was just taped together. But it was taped really well, like I had to hack away at it for several minutes just to get it all apart.

Arent the trailing arm bushings non-replaceable? I dont think they can be replaced.

I personally didnt upgrade the frame bushings, and it was the endlink bushings that I noticed were pretty trashed. I just assumed thats what you were referring too. I just looked at the part # for the Moog parts from RockAuto, its the same one Summit shows, although I think Summit adds a few of their own digits in front.

Dont forget that you will need the drilling template for installing that STB if you track down all the hardware..which is probably rolling around on the floor of a UPS truck. I still have a copy of it somewhere online, and I think Ive even linked too it before on here. Not sure.


As far as that L67 drivetrain, it should physically fit rather well. I think some of the engine accessory brackets are a little different from an H to a W body, so you might have to get ahold of those, but for example the Regal GS had the L67 and is the same chassis as the Intrigue, so physically speaking it should work fine. You may run into some wiring harness issues would be my only concern.

I know of one good Grand Prix forum, and a couple good H-body forums that might have more information for you because more of the members have done that swap. Also http://l67swap.com has a lot of info, you just might have to dig a bit. I cant post links to other forums, but PM me if youd like.

Personally I think Id prefer the SSEi to the Intrigue anyway, but the swap has been done. Just go sit in the SSEi for a while, then come back and sit in those "sporty" seats on the Intrigue. Its like getting up off the couch and going to sit in a folding chair.

I finally got a hold of GMPD. The gentleman I spoke to assured me that he'd send replacement parts asap.

After reading other posts regarding the trailing arms I may have spoke too soon about it be an easy install.

LittleHoov - I've search the forum & your posts but no STB drilling template. Any idea where I can find it? I meant to ask GMPD about it but forgot. I thinking about putting it on the rear & getting another one for the front.

The SSEI swap idea was a bit tongue in cheek but it would be pretty neat. Not worth the effort at this point. The Bonny is in pretty rough shape. I don't think that I'll be taking them up on their offer. I've been looking into a late 90's Buick Riviera SC though. My Intrigue was my mother-in-law's that passed away so I'll/we'll be keeping it.

Thanks for your help.

I really dont remember the trailing arms being hard at all. I thought it was just two bolts and the old one is out. Granted one of those bolts is quite large.

Heres the link for the drilling template
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?perfPackages=1&pkgid=155

Thats got front and rear, both sides. Make sure the pictures dont get resized when they print or you will be off.

Thanks for the link for the templates.

I'm hearing that getting the bolt out of the trailing arms can be quite a job.

Use a hammer and anything that will fit through the bolt hole and wont break. A flat-head screwdriver works well.

Take the nut off and if it wont budge, pound it till its flush then pound it with the screwdriver the rest of the way through. I assume youre talking about the lower bolt, the upper bolt probably wont have room to do that.

I really dont think it should be a problem, unless youve got a lot of rust, then you might have some issues.