ac coversion
chevycaprice77
08-02-2008, 02:23 AM
could anybody help me out here how much does it cost to convert an ac system from r12 to r134a i'm thinking about having a shop do it cause i'm swapping compressor any help would be appreciated this is for a '77 caprice by the way
silicon212
08-02-2008, 02:46 AM
could anybody help me out here how much does it cost to convert an ac system from r12 to r134a i'm thinking about having a shop do it cause i'm swapping compressor any help would be appreciated this is for a '77 caprice by the way
wow one big run on sentence makes it really hard for the reader to try to understand what you are writing because there are no pauses so one cannot take the time to figure out where he is in your sentence as you can see it gets really distracting and hard to keep your concentration up especially if you have ADD/ADHD like I 'do' so you see it can be hard to figure out all of this stuff if you type it in one big run on sentence do you understand what I am trying to say is this making any sense?
Now that that's out of the way, you will need to replace all of the seals in your system. This would be all of the O-rings. Check the condition of the hoses and make sure they are good - R134a runs at higher line pressures than does R12. ALL of the old oil has to come out - no exception here - this requires complete system evacuation. You may also consider replacing the accumulator if you're also doing the compressor. When you recharge the system (or have the shop do it), make sure to ONLY USE ESTER OIL (oil can will either say "ESTER" or "FOR R12 CONVERSIONS" or something similar). Failure to do any of this results in an internal sludge throughout the system that is referred to as "The Black Death". Figure out what that means and follow my direction above!
You will find out two things about R134a vs. R12 in your system - and that's #1, your system will not require as much. If the capacity of R12 is 3.5 pounds (a generic number but probably close, the sticker on the evap housing should say how much), R134a will likely be closer to 2.5 pounds on a fully charged system. DO NOT OVERCHARGE. Second, R134a is not quite as efficient as R12 is, so if you leave the evaporator as is, it will not cool down as quickly. You can install a larger evaporator and this will solve the issue. The factory condenser should be sufficient.
Do not use R12 oil. Do not use PAG oil. Use ONLY ester oil on a converted system.
wow one big run on sentence makes it really hard for the reader to try to understand what you are writing because there are no pauses so one cannot take the time to figure out where he is in your sentence as you can see it gets really distracting and hard to keep your concentration up especially if you have ADD/ADHD like I 'do' so you see it can be hard to figure out all of this stuff if you type it in one big run on sentence do you understand what I am trying to say is this making any sense?
Now that that's out of the way, you will need to replace all of the seals in your system. This would be all of the O-rings. Check the condition of the hoses and make sure they are good - R134a runs at higher line pressures than does R12. ALL of the old oil has to come out - no exception here - this requires complete system evacuation. You may also consider replacing the accumulator if you're also doing the compressor. When you recharge the system (or have the shop do it), make sure to ONLY USE ESTER OIL (oil can will either say "ESTER" or "FOR R12 CONVERSIONS" or something similar). Failure to do any of this results in an internal sludge throughout the system that is referred to as "The Black Death". Figure out what that means and follow my direction above!
You will find out two things about R134a vs. R12 in your system - and that's #1, your system will not require as much. If the capacity of R12 is 3.5 pounds (a generic number but probably close, the sticker on the evap housing should say how much), R134a will likely be closer to 2.5 pounds on a fully charged system. DO NOT OVERCHARGE. Second, R134a is not quite as efficient as R12 is, so if you leave the evaporator as is, it will not cool down as quickly. You can install a larger evaporator and this will solve the issue. The factory condenser should be sufficient.
Do not use R12 oil. Do not use PAG oil. Use ONLY ester oil on a converted system.
Dacaprice
08-02-2008, 03:01 AM
Yea what he told you
bhw33191
08-02-2008, 10:54 AM
wow one big run on sentence makes it really hard for the reader to try to understand what you are writing because there are no pauses so one cannot take the time to figure out where he is in your sentence as you can see it gets really distracting and hard to keep your concentration up especially if you have ADD/ADHD like I 'do' so you see it can be hard to figure out all of this stuff if you type it in one big run on sentence do you understand what I am trying to say is this making any sense?
Now that that's out of the way, you will need to replace all of the seals in your system. This would be all of the O-rings. Check the condition of the hoses and make sure they are good - R134a runs at higher line pressures than does R12. ALL of the old oil has to come out - no exception here - this requires complete system evacuation. You may also consider replacing the accumulator if you're also doing the compressor. When you recharge the system (or have the shop do it), make sure to ONLY USE ESTER OIL (oil can will either say "ESTER" or "FOR R12 CONVERSIONS" or something similar). Failure to do any of this results in an internal sludge throughout the system that is referred to as "The Black Death". Figure out what that means and follow my direction above!
You will find out two things about R134a vs. R12 in your system - and that's #1, your system will not require as much. If the capacity of R12 is 3.5 pounds (a generic number but probably close, the sticker on the evap housing should say how much), R134a will likely be closer to 2.5 pounds on a fully charged system. DO NOT OVERCHARGE. Second, R134a is not quite as efficient as R12 is, so if you leave the evaporator as is, it will not cool down as quickly. You can install a larger evaporator and this will solve the issue. The factory condenser should be sufficient.
Do not use R12 oil. Do not use PAG oil. Use ONLY ester oil on a converted system.
LOL,sorry i couldn't help myself
Now that that's out of the way, you will need to replace all of the seals in your system. This would be all of the O-rings. Check the condition of the hoses and make sure they are good - R134a runs at higher line pressures than does R12. ALL of the old oil has to come out - no exception here - this requires complete system evacuation. You may also consider replacing the accumulator if you're also doing the compressor. When you recharge the system (or have the shop do it), make sure to ONLY USE ESTER OIL (oil can will either say "ESTER" or "FOR R12 CONVERSIONS" or something similar). Failure to do any of this results in an internal sludge throughout the system that is referred to as "The Black Death". Figure out what that means and follow my direction above!
You will find out two things about R134a vs. R12 in your system - and that's #1, your system will not require as much. If the capacity of R12 is 3.5 pounds (a generic number but probably close, the sticker on the evap housing should say how much), R134a will likely be closer to 2.5 pounds on a fully charged system. DO NOT OVERCHARGE. Second, R134a is not quite as efficient as R12 is, so if you leave the evaporator as is, it will not cool down as quickly. You can install a larger evaporator and this will solve the issue. The factory condenser should be sufficient.
Do not use R12 oil. Do not use PAG oil. Use ONLY ester oil on a converted system.
LOL,sorry i couldn't help myself
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