P28 ecm for mpfi conversion on d15?

I've got a few things I needed to get done to my car finished up and now the next thing on my list (after wheel studs) is a mpfi conversion.... what I'm wondering is if I can run the vtec p28 ecm for a d16z6 on my non vtec d15b2 as long as i have the dizzy, sensors, etc. I plan on dropping a z6 in here once i have the cash set aside and the time to do it...

Any help appreciated

You would have to do a obd0-obd1 conversion and it would probably throw codes if its a stock ECM because your engine won't have everything it needs...like VTEC.

He said it. Itll throw vtec solenoid codes. If you want to go obd1, and not change the head. Use a p06. Its the non vtec d15b7 ecu.

If you just swap the ECU, you'll have injector codes, and your engine most likely won't start.... you can use a Vtec ECU on a non-Vtec engine, but you'll throw a Vtec solenoid inactive code whenever it should engage.

Best bet is to get a PM6 and do the MPFI swap, then invest in whatever you want and sell your other parts when you're ready.

Actually on an obd1 ecu itll throw the code without ever trying to hit vtec. It just knows...

yeah, solenoid inactive code.. can't think of what it is... I've never had it happen until WOT tho.

alright thanks guys, now what i'm wondering is if i could put a z6 head on a d15 block...

Its called a Mini-me, do a search for it :)

The only thing I found was a z6 head on a d16 block :dunno:

I'm pretty sure its the same on a d15 block. Give me a little time and I will find out. I frequent lots of boards, d-series.org is a good place for engine info :)

It's precisely the same, except depending on what block you use, you might need to switch to pistons with 4 valve reliefs (B8 I believe)

You also could have to either remove or drill out the oil thingy (technical term) that goes under the head in the oil passage.. it's a little removable metal thing... not sure what it's called atm.

But, it acts as sort of a Metering Device so that you're keeping oil pressure, and not flooding the head with oil... which, if you're at all familiar with D-series engines, isn't a problem at all...

well the block i'm gonna use is a good ol' d15b2

just got a mpfi intake on ebay :D

Found a d15b7 mini me swap:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27126 Check Post #3

There are other useful things in there also. The d15 mini-me write up might not be exactly what all you need to do. I haven't went and read it all yet. I had actually found 2, the first one was just retarded, so i won't give you the link for it, lol.

lol thanks tony, as i said above i jus bought a z6 intake manifold, now i'll be off to the junkyard in the coming weeks for the tb, fuel rail, etc.

and hopefully find a PM6 ecm to go mpfi

wow that's some really good info... i may just try and find a decent z6 head while i'm at the yard...

Alright, just read through the write-up. Few things I would like to add.

#1 make sure you have atleast a Haynes or Chiltons manual. A copy of the Helms manual can be found online, but so far I haven't really referred to it much and gotten by with just a Haynes perfectly fine..

#2 You can use either a z6 head or a y8 head, they both have their pros and cons. A lot prefer the z6 over the y8, some prefer the y8. The z6 has bigger combustion chambers, lowers compression a little bit, but overall the head is a good head, doesn't need a lot of work done to it. The y8 has a smaller combustion chamber, but has quench areas to fight detonation, but the head needs a lot of work to get the same potential as the z6(from what I have heard).

#3 Last time I looked up prices on headgaskets, the y8 gasket was cheaper than the z6. Don't know why, but I go with the y8 gasket, makes no difference.

#4 As for the other gaskets, not everyone is a "one-time only" gasket like people think. I always inspect my gaskets before I go and buy new ones. Rubber gaskets are very friendly, just need to make sure there are no gouges in it and its not stretched very much. Exhaust manifold gaskets, bah, most of the time I don't run one, especially when running a header. If I do run one, I just reuse my old one. I have re-used an Intake manifold gasket before, but those are really iffy. Main reason I did it was because the retards never torqued the manifold all the way on, so truthfully, that is the only one I would replace everytime.

#5 Soak your headbolts in oil, when you remove them, they will be soaked, just keep them in a little bucket or something. I don't know if its required, but I always remember where each one came from and replace it in the same spot.

Grats on the manifold, if you can't find the parts you need, let me know and I will go see what I got out in the shed.

I can shed a little info on the y8 head for you though.

It runs a base timing of 12 deg. Which means that you can not use a stock obd1 ecu on the head. It just wont run right at all. You can however put an obd1 cam gear onto the y8 head and itll work ok with the z6 timing maps, and you'll time it to 16 deg just like the z6. The reason for the timing difference is because the key way on the y8 cam gear is offset by one half tooth, or about 4.5 deg.

I ended up having to buy a tunable ecu to get the engine to run right with the y8 head because it ran like absolute shit before. However im running a stock z6 timing map now (havent tuned it yet) with a b7 cam gear (obd1 are all the same) and its doing pretty well. If you get a y8 head and swap the gear you'll have to move it a bit toward the firewall to get the timing right. And not use the marks that you normally would. I got it one tooth off and was only able to get like 9 deg at first with the dizzy full advanced, and I was a bit confused.

AFAIK, the Y8 and Z6 heads have the same runner dimensions, and pretty much the same flow rates...

Biggest issue I've found with Y8 head is the quench pads shroud the valves... open up the area of the quench pad around the valves, and you'll get alot better flow... and it only takes about 15 mins per cylinder with a dremel.

All the areas that are within 2* of a tangent to the valve's face, should be run back about 1.5mm-2mm (just under 1/8") and radius the new grind.

Doing this will lose you a hair of compression, but you'll get more than that power back in airflow, for low, mid, and high range power.


Also, if you want to skip using the resistor box in the MPFI swap (most write-ups will tell you to use it) just use injectors from any car after 1992... they all pretty much dumped the peak/hold injectors after that. (That might be the wrong term... it's either peak/hold, or saturated... I believe Saturated DON'T use the resistor box.)

However, if you decide to use DSM 440's or 620/660's, you'll (normally) need the resistor... and you can run saturated injectors with the resistor, so aside from being a weight freak like me and Tony, there's no real reason to not run it... so disregard this whole section of this post, and just put the damn thing in...

Yeah saturated (OBD1/2) need no resistor. Also. The y8 runners are diff from the z6. The z6 head technically is capable of better flow and the y8 manifold has a slight advantage over the z6.. 6in one, half a dozen in the other.

I know the only REAL advantage to the Y8 manifold is that the plenum is marginally larger, allowing more available driven air for high-rpm operation. The odd dimension of the Y8 manifold is bad for harmonics though, meaning you don't get that air-charge that harmonics causes until very high in the RPM range, and with the best builds and air-flow manipulation, you'll still only get 2 of the harmonic cycles, if you're lucky.

Oddly enough, the HF manifold has the best harmonic characteristics, from what I've seen... although none of this really matters, unless you're going for the multi-million dollar uber-build.

for $13.50 I think the z6 flows pretty damn good lol

ok the manifold should ship tomorrow, my girlfriend's brother has the resistor and injector clips... so now I need PM6 ecu, distributor, injectors, fuel rail, and throttle body with sensors... am i forgetting something?

Nope, not forgetting anything, that I can think of anyway.

Do you need a PM6? I have an extra one, pry be like $40 shipped.

You'll need a male and female two wire plug... so things can be taken back apart... or if you get the dizzy from a junkyard, just cut the wires behind the plugs on the engine harness.

He actually needs either 2 2 wire plugs, or 1 4 wire plug, because don't forget about the 2 injector wires that need to be ran also. I still need to go and add those to mine, they can disconnect right now, but its only because I have spade ends on them under the hood. It was just something at the time to get it running because I needed it running, but I've had issues with doing this way too, so I wouldn't recommend it.

I ran all the wires to the harness side of the resistor plug, and then ran the wires from the resistor the injectors... I only needed an extra plug for the CPS wires, which I copped from a 92 hatch, and just swapped the pinouts and soldered the new wires from the ECU to the harness side of the plug.

BTW, tony, side note... 3000GT spoiler is on my car... I'll get some pics of that and the new wheels soon and update my project thread.

Nope, not forgetting anything, that I can think of anyway.

Do you need a PM6? I have an extra one, pry be like $40 shipped.

You'll need a male and female two wire plug... so things can be taken back apart... or if you get the dizzy from a junkyard, just cut the wires behind the plugs on the engine harness.
I may holler at you towards the end of this month when i get started

kk, keep it in PM if it's just to me tho... I don't do biz in public :P

will do

If you still wanna go ahead with doing obd1 I will send you a p06 for the cost of shipping +5. You wont be able to chip it however because I totally buggered up the circuit in that area trying to remove the socket that was in it. But it still runs stock just fine.

hey. i dont know if you still need parts but i have pretty much everything you need to do the swap. i have a new si dizzy with about 10,000 miles on it, several pm6 ecus, fuel rails, i also have a "jun racing computer" it is a noticable diffrence from a stock pm6 but has an 8200 rev limit. ive got my use out of them so i will let stuff go cheap. just letting you know. Paul

pm what you'll take

were you talking to me? if so What i will take for what, be a bit more specific

sorry lol, i'll pm you