What kind of oil?

Ive been using Castrol Full Synthetic 10W30 in my 02 GTP. What kind of oil do you ya'll run. Any idea whats the best for that motor and why? Thanks.

I run Mobil I 10W30 in my '07 Grand Prix GXP and all my other cars, including my wife's '64 GTO. Have had very good luck changing oil and filter twice per year, which is about 4000 miles on my '07. My '93 Buick Roadmaster, which has a small block Chev 350 has 147,000 miles, and has been on Mobil I since it was new. No oil usage at all.
I've been an advocate of synthetic oil since the early 80's and have had no issues with it.

I use Amsoil 0W-30 and filter in my 05 GXP. Great product, and I agree, synthetic is the only way to go. What your using now should be fine.

The L36 and L67 motor are validated on (and factory-filled with) a Texaco 5W30, I use Castrol 5W30 but switched over to 10W40 plus a bottle of STP for my big block as it has a little heavier service (always towing a full or empty trailer). I go 4000-5000 miles between changes (less for the big block as all of them use some oil).

I use synthetic for air-cooled engines like a Briggs & Stratton.

I've used non-synthetic Havoline 10W30 since the first oil change and I have 347,000 miles on mine now. Still doesn't use any between changes and the last oil analysis was good.

everyone has their own opinion. i run Valvoline 10W30 in the summer, and being in Wisconsin in the "Frozen Tundra" and all...i use Valvoline 5W30 in the winter, the lighter weight makes for easier starts on the cold mornings.

i always said Oil is oil...as long as it lubricates the motor, and you change it on time its going to do its job. i just try to stay away from the oil's with alot of additives though.

Ive been using Castrol Full Synthetic 10W30 in my 02 GTP. What kind of oil do you ya'll run. Any idea whats the best for that motor and why? Thanks.

I would say you're running a high quality oil. I'd stick with it if I were you and can afford full synthetic! :eek7:

I would say you're running a high quality oil. I'd stick with it if I were you and can afford full synthetic! :eek7:


Funny you say that. I just bought 5 quarts of valvoline 10w30 for 3.69 each. The Valvoline full synthetic sitting right next to it was only 5.29. Thats only about 1.50 more per quart, 7.50 more per oil change. I think we can afford that every 3,000+ miles.

The L36 and L67 motor are validated on (and factory-filled with) a Texaco 5W30



:confused:

5W-30?

If that was true why does GM recommend using 10W-30 for most driving and weather conditions in all GM cars with both the L36 and L67 engines. 10W-30 has always been the preferred viscosity. 5W-30 is fine as long as the temperature goes and/or stays below 60 degrees F.

I use Mobil 1 10W-30 in my GTP.

With GP that have higher mileage, should you use a high mileage motor oil.

:confused:

5W-30?

If that was true why does GM recommend using 10W-30 for most driving and weather conditions in all GM cars with both the L36 and L67 engines.

yeah, the only GM that i know calls for 5W30 is the grand am with the 3400. my 2004 grand am said SAE 5W30 right on the oil cap.

yeah, the only GM that i know calls for 5W30 is the grand am with the 3400. my 2004 grand am said SAE 5W30 right on the oil cap.

Yeah same with my son's Olds Alero GL2 with 3400 V6 SFI engine. 5W-30. And I would stay with it too since these engines suffer from piston slap.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC08245.jpg

And I would stay with it too since these engines suffer from piston slap.

haha, yeah...never was a fan of the 3400. had my Grand Am for a little over a year, and traded it in

Bob, thats sure a clean looking motor. Do you keep all your motors like this? Are you selling any vehicles anytime soon? HA HA

Funny you say that. I just bought 5 quarts of valvoline 10w30 for 3.69 each. The Valvoline full synthetic sitting right next to it was only 5.29. Thats only about 1.50 more per quart, 7.50 more per oil change. I think we can afford that every 3,000+ miles.

Ok moneybags! j/k.

:evillol:

I've run Mobil1 since I bought my 2002 GTP new and at 97,xxx it still doesn't use even 1/2 quart between oil changes.

I'm with BNaylor on that one , Mobil1 all the way.
I've had turbos on the dyno that are almost seethrough and i've never seen Mobil1 break down whereas other oils have.

If you religously change your oil every 5000 km and are not racing between lights then non synthetic is fine in my opinion

Mobil 10w-30 high milaege on my 03 GP GT with 116K

Ok moneybags! j/k.

:evillol:

Me? LOL!

Have you got a smaller pulley and downpipe yet Matt?

I just installed a DHP PCM from pfyc and it really woke up my GTP. especially in performance shift mode. Well worth the 200 bucks (I decided to keep my original PCM) Best thing about the DHP PCM is the fan turn on times. My car hardly ever gets above 190 degrees even in an hour of stop and go traffic.

I also ordered a 2.5" bolt in downpipe from ZZP. I emailed them and they said that both the 2.5" and the 3" will bolt into stock exhaust. But I read previous posts from GTP drivers who have reported possible low end torque loss due to not enough backpressure from running the 3". So I decided to stick with the 2.5" Maybe next week I'll have an exhaust shop put it in for me. I checked and my bolts are too rusted and I'm sure I'm going to break them. Plus maybe I can pay my bill with the old cat converter since its not plugged. LOL

Ok, back on topic. I've got a qustion for you guys.

Say I've ran conventional oil in my car since I got it. Next oil change I switch to synthetic....

Do I have to now stick with synthetic or am I able to switch back?

I thought I heard that once you run synthetic, you have to stick with it. Is this true?

Also, I heard that there is a certain type of synthetic that conditions seals and can actually stop small oil leaks. Anyone heard of this? What brand?

Ok, back on topic. I've got a qustion for you guys.

Say I've ran conventional oil in my car since I got it. Next oil change I switch to synthetic....

Do I have to now stick with synthetic or am I able to switch back?

I thought I heard that once you run synthetic, you have to stick with it. Is this true?

Also, I heard that there is a certain type of synthetic that conditions seals and can actually stop small oil leaks. Anyone heard of this? What brand?


No that is a myth you can switch back and forth,i've never seen any issues in my career.... although it really makes no sense to do so.

IMHO the key is to change the oil EVERY 5,000km or 3 mnts whichever comes first, you can push a little longer with sythetic

Some of the high mileage oils have additives that soften up the seals. Most brands do some kind of High Mileage oil ,Castrol and Mobil both do. Just stay away from additives that contain ptfe,that is just evil!

what does ptfe do? and how do I know if an oil contains it or not?

Thanks for the heads up!!!

what does ptfe do? and how do I know if an oil contains it or not?

Thanks for the heads up!!!

Here's some interesting information on ptfe or teflon as some call it.

http://blackstone-labs.com/dec_07_eng.html

I've seen several high-mileage cars that developed oil leaks after the owner switched to synthetic. The theory is:

Sludge builds up over time allowing seals/gaskets to dry out due to lack of conditioning from oil. The synthetic oil helps clear the sludge which exposes dry, cracked gaskets.

I'm not sure how well the seal-conditioning synthetic works. I've never tried it.

With synthetic oil the biggest issue that I know of on SII 3800 engines with high mileage are the valve stem seals. Symptoms after switching over from dino to synthetic is high oil consumption and smoking out the exhaust during startup. A few members on AF had the issue. That is why I would not do it on high mileage engines.

With synthetic oil the biggest issue that I know of on SII 3800 engines with high mileage are the valve stem seals. Symptoms after switching over from dino to synthetic is high oil consumption and smoking out the exhaust during startup. A few members on AF had the issue. That is why I would not do it on high mileage engines.

Which brings us to a question I've wondered about for a long time.......how many miles constitutes "High-mileage?"

Which brings us to a question I've wondered about for a long time.......how many miles constitutes "High-mileage?"

Good question. I would assume the maybe the 80K mark if you go by what the oil companies say concerning high mileage oil marketed. One recent anecdotal case we had the member had around 110K miles when he decided to switch to full synthetic. Of course, the results were not too good. When I switched to synthetic in my GTP several years ago I recall the mileage was around 24K miles but it has worked out fine for me.

Crap, guess I shouldnt switch to synthetic then should I Bob, I've got 90,000 Miles on the clock...

I am using valvoline max life which supposidly is a synthetic blend. Got a small oil pan gasket leak, but its only down a half a quart between changes.... if that.

Crap, guess I shouldnt switch to synthetic then should I Bob, I've got 90,000 Miles on the clock...

I am using valvoline max life which supposidly is a synthetic blend. Got a small oil pan gasket leak, but its only down a half a quart between changes.... if that.

Its really up to you Tim to make an educated decision. It may work out fine. Who knows. :dunno: However, if you have existing oil leaks I wouldn't switch until the respective seal or gaskets are replaced first.

Crap, guess I shouldnt switch to synthetic then should I Bob, I've got 90,000 Miles on the clock...

I am using valvoline max life which supposidly is a synthetic blend. Got a small oil pan gasket leak, but its only down a half a quart between changes.... if that.

Obviously, for my application and driving style, synthetic is not necessary. I've read several articles that state not to change over to synthetic on higher mileage cars because it could cause leaks.
If there's nothing wrong with the oil you use now, why change and risk causing problems, unless you just like repairing them.
To me it's kinda like not flushing an old transmission.

Bob, thats sure a clean looking motor. Do you keep all your motors like this? Are you selling any vehicles anytime soon? HA HA

:lol:

Actually yes considering the weather and geographical location , etc. We do not get much rust or corrosion here due to low rainfall and/or snow. The motor in the Alero looks really good because it has just under 60K miles on it. My son just drove in from New York with it for summer break from USMA - West Point. 2300 miles one way. After a year there it probably won't look too good. :grinno: But this is his last year and he graduates May 2009.

Little off topic but we just added a MPR CAI/FWI to it along with an Optima Red Top battery. Pacesetter Monza CATback exhaust system is next once I get enough strength and will power to do it. 2.5" pipe diameter all the way to the dual tips and deletes the resonator. However, I'm all ragged out from work and working on the old lady's Regal this week. Bad UIM and LIM gaskets at 132K miles. You will never believe the symptoms I had on it. :banghead:

For oil all we ever use is Castrol GTX 5W-30 in the Alero along with a Delco PF47 oil filter.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC02607.jpg

The 3800 calls for 10w 30 and the 3400 only calls for for 5w30 only.The 3400 is also known for eating cams including the 3100s and I have seen this happen.I have never seen one with piston slap yet.One drawback of sythetic oil is,it will cause gaskets to leak.I know of one case of this on an older car.

You've never had a 3100/3400 with piston slap? Better go start that 3100 and take a good listen. I've never had one round off a camshaft lobe. Did have one break a camshaft at the shop due to a leaking LIM which ruined the cam bearings.

I never seen one do that happen.I did find why the cams get eaten up in 3100s/3400s,mainly the journals from a Jasper rep I know.If you think it is because of the camshaft being hollow in the middle,your wrong.It is in the block,when the block was casted in China.The cam journals were casted offset and GM put in really cheap cam bearings.Jasper fixed it right the first time,they alighn bore the cam journals and put in upgraded cam bearings.Jasper is the onlyone that does this.The block is junk right away when the cam goes bad.

Living in Minesooooota we get pretty cold also i,ve used full stnthetic since I bought my Town car 204,000 later it still runs like a bear