Help choosing first car (between 2 options)
chrisDS1987
07-22-2008, 09:18 AM
Hey there, I'm finally getting my first car at the age of 21... I know I'm a little late to the party but oh well.
My father has given me a 1983 Cutlass supreme. For years I wanted that 2 doored Cutlass he never drove. Everything on it still works but it is starting to show age. There lining on the roof is starting to sag and the body has a few minor, MINOR, rust spots.
My concern is that its not too good on gas. It never traveled much and for a car thats over 20 years old it has less than 150, 000 km.
He has told me he wouldn't be offended if I sold it because a non efficiant V8 isn't the best thing for a student.
A nieghbor of mine is selling a 1991 lebaron convertible, same amount of kilometers (miles) as the Cutless. a little easier on gas and about the same in insurance. Just passed an E test.
I took a look at it with my dad, body and tires were great. Nothing worn on the roof. It was owned by an older fellow who didn't get out much so it hasn't been driven too hard. Original owner....
anywho I know little about cars and like both of them. SO should I keep the cutlass or move on the the lebaron?
p.s. He is asking $2700. I think I will offer him $2000 cash because its been 2 months in his driveway.... IF I should buy it, is that a fair price for one?
And also, IF I sell the Cutless I'm thinking $1000 -$800... is that fair?
My father has given me a 1983 Cutlass supreme. For years I wanted that 2 doored Cutlass he never drove. Everything on it still works but it is starting to show age. There lining on the roof is starting to sag and the body has a few minor, MINOR, rust spots.
My concern is that its not too good on gas. It never traveled much and for a car thats over 20 years old it has less than 150, 000 km.
He has told me he wouldn't be offended if I sold it because a non efficiant V8 isn't the best thing for a student.
A nieghbor of mine is selling a 1991 lebaron convertible, same amount of kilometers (miles) as the Cutless. a little easier on gas and about the same in insurance. Just passed an E test.
I took a look at it with my dad, body and tires were great. Nothing worn on the roof. It was owned by an older fellow who didn't get out much so it hasn't been driven too hard. Original owner....
anywho I know little about cars and like both of them. SO should I keep the cutlass or move on the the lebaron?
p.s. He is asking $2700. I think I will offer him $2000 cash because its been 2 months in his driveway.... IF I should buy it, is that a fair price for one?
And also, IF I sell the Cutless I'm thinking $1000 -$800... is that fair?
Hungrycat7
07-22-2008, 09:09 PM
You will be a lot happier at the gas stations if you dump the Cutlass. Sounds like an awefully large amount of money for a 91 though.
Ray paulsen
07-23-2008, 07:24 AM
The gas factor is a huge consideration for the Cutlass but the main factor for both vehicles is CONDITION, dont offer any money till you know where you stand with cost of having vehicle certified, $2000. for a 1991 Lebaron is very high but valid value should it pass a mechanical inspection with no added cost.
Passing an E test thats good, but will seller also include the Canadian Standard Safety certificate in asking price that will make vehicle road worthy ? " I assume your a Canuck when you mentioned KM "
Here is how I would approch the issue, dont offer any money till you know where you stand, take the Lebaron for an extended test drive and follow the steps I provided at this link on my website http://www.usedcartips.org/TESTDRI.html if your then still interested in purchase it's time for step 2
Seller must allow an independent inspection at your cost " $50 - $100." pending where you have inspection " or you walk away from the deal, Subject to mechanical findings it's now the time to negotiate price.
SUMMARY... Price is an important factor but note I left that part till last , in other words don't put the Cart in front of the Horse
To many consumers negotiate asking price first when it really should be the final step " EXAMPLE " even if you got the Lebaron for $500. whats the point if it cost $2500. to make it road worthy.
As for you selling the 1983 Cutlass there is no book value, it comes down to how good you are at negotiating and what someone is willing to pay.
Passing an E test thats good, but will seller also include the Canadian Standard Safety certificate in asking price that will make vehicle road worthy ? " I assume your a Canuck when you mentioned KM "
Here is how I would approch the issue, dont offer any money till you know where you stand, take the Lebaron for an extended test drive and follow the steps I provided at this link on my website http://www.usedcartips.org/TESTDRI.html if your then still interested in purchase it's time for step 2
Seller must allow an independent inspection at your cost " $50 - $100." pending where you have inspection " or you walk away from the deal, Subject to mechanical findings it's now the time to negotiate price.
SUMMARY... Price is an important factor but note I left that part till last , in other words don't put the Cart in front of the Horse
To many consumers negotiate asking price first when it really should be the final step " EXAMPLE " even if you got the Lebaron for $500. whats the point if it cost $2500. to make it road worthy.
As for you selling the 1983 Cutlass there is no book value, it comes down to how good you are at negotiating and what someone is willing to pay.
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