97 Taurus Emissions test

97 Taurus 195K

I Just ahd some sensors replaced and need to get my emmissions done. The car return the P0100 code.
How many "cycles" do I need to clear the P0100 code, and what is a cycle? Is it on / off or is it a number of miles driven, or both?

I seem to remember finding a definition of the Ford drive cycle readiness procedure somewhere on the Internet. You may want to use your favorite search engine to try to locate "Ford drive cycle." If you come up empty, send me a private message with an e-mail address for you that can accept PDF attachments and I'll send you the file I have.

I'm not sure that it's specific to the 1997 model year though.

-Rod

I found it. Thanks.

It seems they now fail you for a P0100 code. Used to be that they would only fail for an MIL. Hope I don't get any more codes.

Do pending codes fail you or just if the light is lit?

Doesn't the P0100 specify that the drive cycle is not complete? I've heard of some places that will charge you to complete the drive cycle if it is not complete when you go in for the annual test.

-Rod

Thats correct.

I have four tests that are now showing incomplete on my scan tool:
1) Evap monitor
2) cat monitor
3) oxy sencor monitor
4) something else to do with the o2 sensor, HTR maybe?

I need to get the drive cycle done for these items. Anyone have any ideas? I looked up the drive cycle, and I have done driving similar to what it requires. Will it help to reset the DTC's, or will that make it worse?

If you clear the codes, you'll reset your drive cycle and will have to start over anyway.

I remember a few months back someone was having trouble getting the drive cycle to complete. I don't know if they ever figured out what was happening and were able to successfully get it complete. You should try searching the forum for keywords "drive cycle" and see what they found.

-Rod

The Ford Drive Cycle PDF file I have has the following overall suggestions:
Drive Cycle Recommendations:
1. Most OBDII monitors will complete more readily using a "steady foot" driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a "smooth" fashion will minimize the time required for monitor completion.
2. Fuel tank level should be between ½ and ¾ fill with ¾ fill being the most desirable.
3. The Evaporative Monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the procedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize "fuel slosh".

It goes on to state that to enter the drive cycle, perform the following:


Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC’s/Perform a PCM Reset.
Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE. Start Vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.
Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7 C (170o F).
Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8 C (40 to 100o F)? If not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass" the Evap monitor and clear the P1000.For the EVAP drive cycle:
Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should = PT, EVAPDC must be > 75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%.

For catalyst monitor:
Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period.

For Oxygen Sensor monitor:
Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes.

-Rod

Progress (I think). I drove it at 40 MPH on the highway for a while and picked up a code - P0135. I have a scan tool and can monitor the O2 sensor voltage. I would like to take a look at it and see if the sensor is good. What voltages am I looking for to know if the sensor is good?

If I need to change the sensor, are there any special tools needed, and how do I figure out which one to change (I think there are 4)?

P0135 indicates a problem with the bank 1, sensor 1 heater circuit. The heater circuit parameter is usually displayed on the scan tool as a current draw, typically in the tens of milliamperes if I remember correctly.

You can disconnect the B1S1 sensor and check the heater circuit to see if the resistance is between 3 and 30 ohms between heater ground and VPWR.

-Rod

Some more codes showed on the car:

1) P0135 (MIL)
2)P0402 (Pending)
3)p0420 (pending)
4) P0430 (Pending)

And it still has the p1000. There may be more to come. I'm thinking its time to retire the car while I can still use it to find another one. At 196,000 I figure its done its time.

I'm thinking it needs a 4 new o2 sensors, a new DPFV (or something like that) and some TLC.

Any suggestions on if its worth fixing? One important point - the trany shifts a little rough. Its been doing that for a while though.