car problem, help a lady out???

Hi, I was wondering if anyone out here can help me out.

recently, I've noticed that everytime when I press on the gas on my car, there's a watery sound. At first I thought that something is broken and I am leaking, but i checked and that wasn't the case. Anyhow... this watery sound only happens when I first step on the gas, but once the car is up and running about 40 miles an hour...then the sound is gone. And I've also noticed that eversince the sound started, my car engine doesn't seem to be as powerful as it use to be. now my cousin told me that it's probably just the heater or the cooler, but i am not so sure.

also...i have another question. Everytime when I turn my car on and the engine starts running, there's a squeeky sound, even when i drive the sound is still there...can anyone help me??? it'll be very much appreciated. :)


thanks for reading.

You might be hearing air bubbles moving through the cooling system. Check the radiator overflow container and see if the level has dropped. If so, you may have a minor leak in the cooling system and the radiator pulled air in to replace the missing fluid. The squealing sound might be the belt slipping which maybe associated with the waterpump since you are hearing air/fluid moving. When was the last time the waterpump was changed?

Wow...ohh gosh...hmm...i don't remember ever changing that....the only thing i change or look at frequently is the oil and the wheels.

P.S.

If the waterpump is the problem, Jennydee, can I fix it myself or do I have to get professional help???

The squeaking could be one of many rotating things, but the water pump is driven by the timing belt, not the long serpentine belt you can see on the passenger side. The water pump is not an easy task to undertake for novice. But you can isolate the squeak with a can of WD-40 or similar by squirting it on the rotating shafts of the pulleys that the long belt goes around (not the part where the belt rides!). When the squeak stops after you squirt, you found the source.

You don't mention a year or mileage either, that can help us.

You most likely have lost enough coolant to have air in your system. The air collects at the top of the radiator hose, then as you rev the engine it gets pushed into and around the system, causing the gurgling sounds.

First, you should try to see if there are any leaks that caused the loss in the first place...most likely spots are around the hose clamps, and the two smaller hoses that send coolant to the heater core in the A/C...look for a greenish white scale around these areas. A quick turn of a screwdriver should tighen them up enough...not too much or you'll crush the hose and make the leak worse.

Then, park the car with the front slightly higher than the rear and let it cool. AFTER IT IS COMPLETELY COOL, remove the radiator cap (not the overflow reservior) and fill it with 50/50 coolant mix until it is to the neck. Check your owner's manual or ask a parts store person for the right kind (there are several "colors"...standard green, global types, and orange Dex-cool). Refill the overflow tank and cap both. Start the engine and either run it up to normal temp or go drive to an errand. Keep repeating this until the coolent level stops dropping. If you see a puddle of coolant under the car, then you have a leak somewhere...unless it is from the overflow tube coming from the overflow tank...be sure to not over fill it. Good luck!

Usually you hear liquid sloshing-flowing in the heater core indicating the core isn't full of water at first and as you dfrive it it fills up and the sloshing goes away. Ascertain if the radiator is leaking by parking the car over some cardboard you put under the engine & radiator and see if it's leaking water or "coolant" and if it is dump in a can of this sealant: http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-43913/Detail Follow the directions on the container. Radiator sealer is some marvelous stuf and works great.

On the other hand, if it IS the water pump seal then the only cure for that is a new water pump and I would suspect you need a mechanic to do the change out. There are several places that can leak coolant, transmission cooler, (if it has one), heater core rotten or core hose leaking, radiator or hoses. Check the tranny fluid and if it has a tranny cooler make sure the water isn't mixing with the tranny fluid. Bottom line, some leaks are easy to find and fix and some are a real son-of-a-gun so give it a shot yourself and if no luck turn it over to a pro. I asume you HAVE or know how to FIND a good, honest mechanic.

Leaking coolant nothing to mess with because it runs real hot it could crack a head or blow a head gasket costing BIG bucks to repair. Best see to it while it won't be so expensive. Like jdmccright said: "You don't mention a year or mileage either, that can help us." Amen, the more info we have the better. Auto tranny, stick shift, what model Toyota and what engine and HOW MANY MILES DOES IT HAVE ON IT?"

thanks, everyone...sorry for the long delay. well, i got it checked the other and the mechanic said that the catalytic converter has to be replaced, it's probably the cost for all the problems.

but when i came home...my mechanic cousin said that it might not be the catalytic converter...because it's hard to break it. he said it's the O2 censor.

now, i am confused, the engine light is on. i don't know which one to fix. the car is a corolla 2001 ce, with 170k mileage, yes it's high. hmmm...anymore question just as me. once again, i do appreciate the inputs. :D

the engine is a v-tec, automatic.

as far as the the squeek is concerned it may be just one of the acc. belts. just find out where it is coming from.

now for the other prob. It may be possible that it is coolent related but I would not discount the "drip pan" for the A/C system being full and plugged thus not draining. does it have a sour/wierd smell when you have the fan blow?

for the Cat. converter to cause these probs. is not very likely, but if your check engine light is on it may very well be either the Cat. or O2 sensor ( I think you may have 2 one upstream and one downstream of the Cat. There are ways to check if the componets are good /bad. Stock Cats. typically lasts many years....It may still have some sort of warranty for the maker (can't remember if smog devices are covered for 10years) maybe something to look into. GL
Edit.....
also try to stay away from some of the aftermarket Cats. that aren't dense. as many of them dont last too long (2-4 years). but factory ones cost wayyyyyyy to much. If you were to have to take a stab at the checke engine light (without proper diagnosis) go for the cheaper of the two...o2 sensor

If the CEL light is on, why don't you take the car to a parts store like Advance Auto or something and have them throw their diagnostic computer on it. They can tell you what code the car is throwing and that info would tell you what part is malfunctioning.

Just another gal's thoughts :-)
Good Luck!
Jackie

The ECM can't determine a failing cat converter directly, only that the O2 sensors will detect low efficiency in the exhaust (P0420?). But a failing sensor is a different code altogether. Nonetheless, you should have the code read before replacing those expensive parts willy-nilly.