95 Ford Explorer Neutral Switch

Hello,

I have a 1995 Ford Explorer v6 4door 2wd. Every once in a while the car won't start. Ok, I know more detail. It won't even crank although battery, etc is OK. After several times of this happening, I now know that if it happens, I turn the key so the shift lever will move, move it down and back up into park, then the car will start no problem.

So I am now pretty sure it is the Neutral Safety switch. Can someone please confirm where this is located? I think it screws into the transmission? what they call plunger type? any pictures of where this is on the transmission?

Thanks
Alan

If it is an automatic, it is bolted to the side of the transmission where she shift linkage is. It is called a neutral safety switch, transmission range sensor, manual lever positioning sensor. Take your pick, they are the same. Be sure to adjust it. It is adjusted in neutral. There are 2 lines that need to line up and then tighten mounting bolts. Here is a picture of the part.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/way2old1/TAURUSTRSENSOR.jpg

Here are simple steps to replace it.

1. Jack the vehicle up and safely support it.
2. Place vehicle in neutral.
3. Remove the linkage at the point it connects to the transmission.
4. Remove the wiring connector.
5. Remove the 2 screws that mount it to the transmission.
6. Remove switch.
Look at the new switch. You will see a line on the inside part that moves and a line on the plastic housing outside it. These line up in neutral. You may want to mark them so they are easier to see.
To install---
1. Place switch on the transmission.
2. Install mounting bolts snugly, but loose enough to move the switch.
3. Adjust the switch so the little lines line up.
4. Tighten screws.
5. Connect wiring.
6. Install shift linkage.
7. Lower vehicle and check for proper operation.

This should not take very long. First time should be a max of 1 1/2 hour, probably less. Good luck and keep us informed.

Hello, a few more details please:

On Step 3 (removal). Remove the linkage at the point it connects to the transmission.

Question: What I see is a narrow rod/linkage that connects to a metal ARM. The other side of the arm seems to go to the neutral switch and is held on by a fairly large nut. Do I simply take the nut off? Is that all there is to removing the linkage, remove the nut?

On Step 3 (install). Adjust the switch so the little lines line up.

Question: I guess this will make more sense when I have the new switch in my hand? because how will I see these marks that have to line up once it is installed?

Also, I did a little searching for the part (before I buy it locally) and there is an 8-pin and an 11-pin version. I have not disconected the plug yet but I did count the wires and there are 8. So (silly question) I should get the 8 pin version, right? Just wanted to make sure there isn't something special/strange here?

Thanks again for your patience. I am fairly mechanically inclined (ok stop laughing), really, but I just don't like to be surprised when I do something for the first time. And screwing with the transmission, yeah I know just a switch, scares me :-)

Thanks
Alan

Sorry I am late in responding. I was out of town for a couple of days.
Yes the large nut needs to be removed so the linkage will come off.

You will see the marks on the sensor once you get it. Mark it with something like white out or something that will show up easily.

Keep at it and you will see what I am takling about. Good luck.

One more and then off to the auto parts store....

When I take off the large nut, I assume the ARM will slide off? Is the "arm" keyed to the shaft that the nut is on?

What I am getting at is when I put the arm back on the shaft and put the nut back on, is the ARM to Shaft keyed? Or just put it back in the position it wants to be in? How do I know that I am putting the arm back on in the right position?

I know I remember I will do all this while the car is in NEUTRAL.....

Thanks again,
Alan

The linkage is cut so it will only fit one way. I don't think you will have any problems.

A quick update and of course a question....

I had to order the part as no one locally including NAPA carries it. But it will be in tomorrow..... my plan is to replace it over the weekend.

Regarding the large nut holding the arm on and the two screws/small bolts holding the switch to the transmission, do you have torque settings for them?

Also, again, to be sure... I need to do the replacement and line up the switch "lines" (which i haven't seen yet) while the car is in NEUTRAL, right?

Thanks
Alan

The torque settings are not important on those connections. Just get the sensor really snug, not tight enough to break the sensor. The large nut, just make it tight enough not to slip. Yes, the lines need lined up in neutral. When you get the sensor in your hand, you will see what I mean. I think the sensor is shipped in the neutral position. Good luck.

Quick update....

After a day for the part to show up, it did. I used NAPA...

And after checking the new switch DOES have the correct connector and 8-pins.

There are also the two "lines" on the switch that you told me about. The one on the body of the switch is actually labeled "Neutral" and is easy to see. The one on the inner ring of the switch is harder to see but is there. I will do what you said and line them up and mark them better so it is easier to see under the car.

The inner ring is also notched in two places where I assume it will match up with the transmission part/shaft.

The plan is to do the replacement this weekend. I will let you know what happens.

Thanks again,
Alan

Yet another question please....

Ok, the large nut that holds the linkage arm to the transmission..... How do you remove the nut without changing the transmission position.

What I mean is the arm is attached to the transmission being held on by that larger nut. When you go to loosen or tighten the nut, it will want to turn the shaft that goes into the transmission?

Alan

Go ahead and let it move. Then place it in neutral to adjust the switch. After switch is adjusted, it will not matter where the linkage is. Place the vehicle in park until you remove the linkage, then put transmission in neutral.

I guess I see what you are saying....

Since the ARM is keyed to the transmission shaft where the large nut is then go ahead and loosen the nut which may may the shaft turn a but, but since the arm is keyed to the shaft, when you shift back to neutral the arm will put the transmission back to neutral again, right?

I keep thinking that when you loosen the nut, the arm will rotate freely around the shaft. This is not the case right?

Alan

You are right. Don't try to overthink the project. Let us know outcome.

Ok my final post with the results and some tips and tricks for others.....

1. As instructed, you must take off the large nut (7/8") in order to get the ARM off of the transmission. However the nut is on VERY tight and in my case actually had some sort of thread sealer on it making it VERY tight. So I had to get some help from a mechanic friend who showed me the trick!

While using a wrachet and socket (7/8") on the nut, you need to hold back the ARM. To do this use a large cresent wrench actually going around the socket to hold back the arm. What this does is the open end of the cresent wrench is hitting (or wedging) the arm so it won't turn. Bottom line is you need a way to put counter pressure on the arm while you are loosening the nut. If you try and loosen the nut without doing this you will damage the linkage.

2. Once the nut is off, then the arm will come off without any trouble. The arm is KEYED to the shaft that it came off of so you don't have to worry about how it goes back. And you don't have to remove the linkage on the other end of the arm. Oh, and before you remove the ARM put the car in NEUTRAL!!!

3. IT WAS HIGHLY RECOMMENED THAT I REPLACE THE SEAL AT THE TRANSMISSION WHEN DOING THIS!!! Once the arm is off, then there are the two small bolts that hold on the Neutral Switch. Obviously they need to come off then the switch will come off. There is a $4.00 rubber seal that goes around the shaft at the transmission. It is a good idea to replace this. Simply pry out the old one which takes a little time with a small pick or something. Then lub up the new one and slide it on. Then what I used is a deep socket to gently and evenly tap in the new seal.

4. Now you are ready to put on the new switch. Line up the NEUTRAL LINES on the switch and slide it on the shaft. Before you tighten back down the 2 bolts make sure the lines are still lined up. Then tighten it down.

5. Now put back on the ARM the same way you took it off by putting counter pressure on the arm while you are tightening the nut with the socket.

That's it....... Things to note:

1. replace the small rubber seal when doing this. Again, $4.00 at the ford dealership.

2. you must put counter pressure on the arm when removing the nut. again, hard to describe without a picture, but use a wratchet/socket to remove the nut while at the same time using a large open end wrench (or large cresent wrench) AROUND the socket such that it hits the arm and prevents it from rotating.

Alan

Good job. And thanks for posting the tips you got from your friend. It will probably help someone else on the same project.