1998 2.4L engine removal?

I need to remove the engine from my G/A. I know the service manual says to remove it and the transaxle together from below the vehicle. Looking at it, there's no reason it can't come out from above if I seperate the transaxle first... there's definately room if I remove the intake manifold. Has anyone else thought there was room from the top and tried it? I'll have to swap the engine out at home in my garage, so I won't have a hoist, which is why I'm wondering about doing it from above. My garage has a load bearing wall in the center, so although it is two stalls, there's very little room to do stuff from the side of the vehicle, such as having a jack under each side...

Or, should I just part it out? Even with the work I have done to it I have less than $2,000 in it, and it is starting to rust a bit around the rear wheels, and it needs 4 tires, and I don't especially care for the color (purple), and the HVAC plastic was previously destroyed and I'm not sure how much longer the plastic I didn't replace will last, plus I would much rather have something RWD with a V8. What would you do?

Automatic or manual transmission?You can pull it from the top if it is an automatic.Another thing and don't do this: turn the crank backwards.Turn the crank as you are tightening a bolt only or you will bend valves if you turn it backwards.Pull the crank pulley and mount from the block so it clears.

All these engine will come out the top.
The hardest part IMO is those damn flywheel bolts.

I was going to pull my 3.4 out the top if you cam was bad, but I got lucky and it didnt need pulled.

So why are you needing to remove the engine ??

It sounds like there's a noise in the bottom end now... Not 100% sure I have to pull it, but I'm somewhere in the high 90%'s... The original noise is still there, even after I got the tensioner in right. I listened around various parts of the engine with a stethoscope, and the loudest noise seems to be coming from the intake camshaft area. But the noise doesn't sound like it could be the followers or cam, and I know everything inside the timing chain cover is right now, so it's gotta be resonating from somewhere else. I even pulled the P/S pump to eliminate that as a possibility. :dunno: I'm gonna drive it home and pull the head back off when I get around to it before I pull the engine. What ever damage was done is done, and since I'm so sure it's the bottom end, I'm just assuming I need a new engine.

For now I'm thinking pretty seriously about buying a new G5 or G6, I want a car that I know has been maintained well, as opposed to going to repair something really easy and finding out someone else has already tried, but screwed it up really bad and masking-taped the broken pieces back together and left other pieces just hanging there. On that topic, I asked in the G6 forum last night whether there was a V6/manual trans option in the G6, does anyone here happen to know? The build-your-own on the Pontic web site doesn't show it, but I was told by a GM representative that the G6 does have the option :dunno: If there's not, I'll be going with the G5 2.4 ecotec M/T and fixing and selling my G/A to help pay for it :)

I think the G6 does have an option for the 6spd but its with the big 3.9L or the SC one. Not sure exactly how it went I read it some where in the G6/G5 forums.

And good luck with your engine!

... :sorry: I realy hate those noisey 2.4s.

Thanks. I saw a 6-spd auto, but didn't see any manuals. And with gas prices I want something smaller than 3.9L. I'm thinking VERY seriously about buying a Chevy Cobalt SS now. They have a 2.0 supercharged ecotec that puts out 260 HP @ 5,400(? lower 5ks) and 260 lb-ft torque at 2,000 RPM. Looking at the G6s, the 3.6 VVT has 252 HP and has a lot more weight to pull with it. At $24,040 for the options I want, it's pricey but I think I'll have some fun in it :biggrin: Since it's that much It'll be a summer only car so it doesn't rust apart in 6 years, I'll keep my G/A for winter so I'll still be around the G/A forum :)