Revell Musatng GT 2006 Problem.
ericmaxman
07-11-2008, 07:58 AM
Guys, while doing this car, I sumbled accross this problem.
Have anyone of you guys encountered this before? How to solve this? Darn.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h280/ericmaxman/DSC01255.jpg
Have anyone of you guys encountered this before? How to solve this? Darn.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h280/ericmaxman/DSC01255.jpg
ZoomZoomMX-5
07-11-2008, 08:14 AM
I'm afraid you'll have to be a lot clearer about what the problem is, as your photograph certainly isn't clear, and you haven't spelled it out.
Chuck Kourouklis
07-11-2008, 01:46 PM
Is it that the mounting pins on the part are missing?
If you feel really strongly about it, you could find the marks where they were broken off and use them as guides. You'd want some brass rod stock or piano wire, as close as possible to the diameter of the original pins, and a pin vise with a drill bit to match your replacement stock.
Then you just drill the torsion bar where the pins were, superglue your metal rod stock into the holes, and trim the metal stock to leave perhaps 2-3mm sticking out. Presto! New mounting pins.
Of course, pins broken off do present one advantage: you get to place the part exactly where you want to. You might consider mocking up the engine, driveshaft, and rear axle, then simply glue the torsion bar in the position that lines up best with your mock-up.
That is, if missing mounting pins are your problem...
If you feel really strongly about it, you could find the marks where they were broken off and use them as guides. You'd want some brass rod stock or piano wire, as close as possible to the diameter of the original pins, and a pin vise with a drill bit to match your replacement stock.
Then you just drill the torsion bar where the pins were, superglue your metal rod stock into the holes, and trim the metal stock to leave perhaps 2-3mm sticking out. Presto! New mounting pins.
Of course, pins broken off do present one advantage: you get to place the part exactly where you want to. You might consider mocking up the engine, driveshaft, and rear axle, then simply glue the torsion bar in the position that lines up best with your mock-up.
That is, if missing mounting pins are your problem...
tonioseven
07-11-2008, 03:36 PM
Yeah, what they said. :icon16:
ericmaxman
07-11-2008, 10:37 PM
It was my mistake. I accidentally cutted it off. I have to just stick it into position now. Can anyone showme their completed one? I need to use as reference.
Chuck Kourouklis
07-14-2008, 03:11 PM
Had a look at mine over the weekend, Eric, and I'm pretty convinced you don't need to see anyone's finished model. Here's what you do:
For now, forget about putting in new mounting pins. What Revell calls a "torsion bar" (part 35) is actually a Panhard rod, which attaches to the chassis on the passenger side and the axle on the driver's side. Where it attaches to the chassis, there's a nice, positive, "C"-shaped boss to accept it - so even without a pin, there's something on the chassis to hold the part in place.
So put part 35 aside, and go ahead with steps 4C-4E, making sure to stop before 4F. As you see, those steps all involve getting the rear axle in, and by the time you've put in the rear shocks and rear control arms, you'll have the axle firmly fixed in its final position.
BEFORE you get the stabilizer bar in at step 4F, you should position part 35 without glue. Where the base and the Panhard rod pivot, that's the part you put into that "C" detent in the chassis. The other end of the base goes over the hole originally intended for its pin (on the driver's side of the chassis), and the Panhard rod itself attaches to the driver's side rear control arm, on the rear surface of its axle bracket, about midway between the top and bottom of that bracket.
Trial fitting it without glue will be your best bet, and once you have it figured out, you can glue it in, finish step 4F with the stabilizer bar, and continue with the rest of the model.
For now, forget about putting in new mounting pins. What Revell calls a "torsion bar" (part 35) is actually a Panhard rod, which attaches to the chassis on the passenger side and the axle on the driver's side. Where it attaches to the chassis, there's a nice, positive, "C"-shaped boss to accept it - so even without a pin, there's something on the chassis to hold the part in place.
So put part 35 aside, and go ahead with steps 4C-4E, making sure to stop before 4F. As you see, those steps all involve getting the rear axle in, and by the time you've put in the rear shocks and rear control arms, you'll have the axle firmly fixed in its final position.
BEFORE you get the stabilizer bar in at step 4F, you should position part 35 without glue. Where the base and the Panhard rod pivot, that's the part you put into that "C" detent in the chassis. The other end of the base goes over the hole originally intended for its pin (on the driver's side of the chassis), and the Panhard rod itself attaches to the driver's side rear control arm, on the rear surface of its axle bracket, about midway between the top and bottom of that bracket.
Trial fitting it without glue will be your best bet, and once you have it figured out, you can glue it in, finish step 4F with the stabilizer bar, and continue with the rest of the model.
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