oil burning issues

Ok so here is the story, new rebiult 1.0 engine bored over. in a 94 geo. runs great going 75 down the hyway and let off gas and a big plum of oil smoke. did it again???? oil is blowing through the pcv and air filter so I figure to much pressure. I am pretty sure there is no solution but any advice. I have since slowed to 65 and no problems. but if 75 is just building to much pressure then ok 65 it is but if there is something I can do to aleave this problem 75 works better

thanks in advanace

First do a compression check. Easy to do and the tester can be found at wlamart for about $25.

A while ago on this form a member had issue with a rebuild burning alot of oil. It turned out that the rebuilder did not put the oil check valve back into the block. This is the small restrictor valve, that falls out if you flip the block upside down.

There is also issues with the head gasket oil return hole being to small. All the aftermarket gaskets need to have the hole enlarged. There is info on both these issues over on teamswift.net under the FAQ.

it is not a compression problem it is going through the valve cover and to the intake via pcv and throttle body. But the info about the oil return hole being to small is viable. I am not willing to take it back down for that so I guess I'll just keep it at 65 mph. I went from 50 mpg at 75 mph to 55mpg at 65mph. My commute is 180 miles a day 90 up and 90 back.
So nice to go that far and pull into the gas station and put 3 gal back in and head on down the road.
Now should I have the old engine rebiult and have it as a back up HUMMMM

thanks for the info

I have read in other postings, that people have experienced oil burning in speeds above 65. In these cars, no one should go over that anyhow. I sure wouldn't want to wreck one at that speed. LOL

Oh yes....it would be worth the time and money to rebuild your other engine. Awesome little cars and well worth the money. I like the fact that they are easy to work on.

As far as your PCV return line, just take it off and spray it out with carb cleaner. It's a simple job and can be done in minutes. Unscrew the valve from the intake manifold and spray it out too.

It's interesting to read about this (and timely too). As a newbie Metro owner I just experienced this the other day and thought that I had some pretty serious problems to contend with.

I do a fair amount of freeway driving, and it would be nice to be able to get up to 70 (at least every once in a while) without leaving smoke signals. Is there a fix for this particular problem?

I just wanted to say that I agree with all of these post.. I love how easy these are to work on. Ya I don't go over 70 in mine because it starts going all over the road and the seatbelts don't seem like they would do much... thats all I wanted to say :p

I actually avoid the Interstate and cruise at 55 on regular roads. 55MPH = 55MPG in my experience.

I had the same problem after I rebuilt mine. The check valve was in but at the time I didn't know there was a problem with after market head gaskets. Anyway, instead of pulling the head I pulled the dipstick out and secured it under the hood. Then just slide a piece of 1/2" hose over the dipstick tube and point it down to keep dirt out. It works for now until I have time to pull the head. You won't loose any oil out the tube.

Read this link with more info about the check valve and oil drainback hole. These two issues may alow your valve cover to fill up with oil...

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=24773&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=



I actually opened up a new reman.. before I installed it to make sure those two things were taken care of. The check valve was in, but the gasket needed to be widened

Until gas started going out of sight, I routinely drove mine at 80, and drove my old TriStar <grin> the same and never had this oil problem. But neither are (or were, in the case of the 3) rebuilds, either.

Seat belts? We dun need no steenkeen SEAT BELTS!

-Pink

can the oil drain valve be seen from the top with the valve cover removed and possible trim the hole back, be nice to go 75 again. Or do you have to remvoe the head.

I noticed in your first statement that this happened when you let off the gas. Does it do it when you are on the throttle also? If it only smokes bad when you're decellorating it usually means that the valve guides or seals are letting oil get by. Ken.

91 ragtop, I agree with you except this is a new engine and at that speed when you decelerate it creates alot more pressure in the engine and blows it through the throttle body. whe it does this I can remove the air filter cover and it is soaked with oil on top of the tbi.

Reread my post. Your problem is a partially covered oil drain hole due to the headgasket. I have the same problem. The drain hole (which is the only one in the head) has two jobs, drain the oil and allow blowby from the cylinders to escape. I know, you just rebuilt it, but all engines have blowby. At increased rpms blowby is also increased. Its coming up with more volume and not allowing the oil to drain, hense the valve cover starts to fill up and then into your pcv system until it finnally gets a gulp of oil in the intake.
You have two choices. Pull the head and replace the head gasket, or do what I did and give the blowby another avenue of escape. I had just rebuilt the motor and I was'nt ready to pull it all apart unless I had to. I tried a few alterations to the pcv system, none worked. I will have to work on my engine again I'm sure, waterpump, timing belt, etc. Then I will pull it apart and replace the head gasket but it runs so good right now I don't want to mess with it. I know it sounds a little shadetreeish but it works. If you decide to do it don't make the hose too long about 6 inches. If its too long it will over time get partially clogged from vapor condensation. I don't lose any oil nor does my oil get dirty from it. I get 50 mpg.
Heres a test. With the engine idling pull the dipstick out and listen for a little purge of air. If you want, you could tie it back in to your breather to use those bypassed hydrocarbons.

You can not see the oildrain back holes unless you pull the head. There are numerous pictures over on teamswift. Link is in my post above. You will need to pull the head and replace the headgasket. Make sure you widen the hole and make sure the check valve is in place to. It help control the amount of oil going to the head.

Just found pics of my reman engine that I actually opened up to make sure that the drainback holes were wide enough and that check valve was in

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/RossT/Image038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/RossT/Image035.jpg

drainback holes are in this pick upper right and upper left hand corner and
check valve is the copper color thing inthe bottom left of this pic below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/RossT/Image032.jpg

You can see the miss match openening for the headgasket. I widened the holes in the gasket and reused the gasket and headbolts, all is well!!

You can not see the oildrain back holes unless you pull the head. There are numerous pictures over on teamswift. Link is in my post above. You will need to pull the head and replace the headgasket. Make sure you widen the hole and make sure the check valve is in place to. It help control the amount of oil going to the head.

Just found pics of my reman engine that I actually opened up to make sure that the drainback holes were wide enough and that check valve was in

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/RossT/Image038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/RossT/Image035.jpg

drainback holes are in this pick upper right and upper left hand corner and
check valve is the copper color thing inthe bottom left of this pic below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/RossT/Image032.jpg

You can see the miss match openening for the headgasket. I widened the holes in the gasket and reused the gasket and headbolts, all is well!!

OK, brain picking time :)

I also rebuilt a G10 - bought the ragtop for $400, wouldn't turn over, found a piece of metal on top of #2 piston. The head and piston both had 'dents' but nothing major, no cylinder scoring so I had the head redone at a shop, changed the rod bearings and put it all back together.

It started and ran, smoked like crazy and had a rattle which I thought was a rod, then later put off to the valve train (changed the lifters at this point). After about 10 hrs run time I couldn't take it, pulled it all apart again and found oil in the intake and cylinders (no oil in the air cleaner). I also found that #2 piston had deformed just enough to make the rings bind on 1 side and the pin fit seems awfully tight - hoping this is the cause of my rattle.

SO - firstly, I could remove the oil filler cap when it was running and didn't see anything other than what I would consider normal oiling. Since there are drain slots at the front of the block and drain holes at the rear is enlarging the rear holes going to make that big a difference?
Don't get me wrong, I fully intend to try this, but I'd like to get it right this time around :)

Has anyone else experienced valve train noises from this excessive oiling?

Does anyone know why FelPro builds these gaskets like this? Also, has anyone noticed that there are also cooling passages in the head that are effectively blocked with the head gasket?

I plan to recycle a used piston from another block, do a ring job, cut the gasket and put it back together and hope for the best. I'm hoping the pistons can be exchanged - different casting makings on the rods but everything looks the same - anyone done this before?

These are such a wonderfully simple motor to work on - perhaps now that GM is on the ropes we should suggest they bring the Geo back to life!

Wetback, you have a bent rod.

Ok so I checked the team swift site and I guess I will have to pull the head this weekend if time. crap man it did it going 68mph coming from work, really pissed me off so it will have to be fixed.I do have an extra head gasket as well. JUst hate to tear it apart when it runs so well.

wow just like the pics sent, I just pulled the head and walla the problem is there. pulled the new head gasket and it needs cutting to so I will cut and put back to gether and see what happpens. thanks for the enfo every one.

wow just like the pics sent, I just pulled the head and walla the problem is there. pulled the new head gasket and it needs cutting to so I will cut and put back to gether and see what happpens. thanks for the enfo every one.
Yea Lance, the aftermarket head gasket issue has been known for awhile now........It's sucks that you had to pull the head again BUT, The payoff is worth it to fix the problem!


I actually avoid the Interstate and cruise at 55 on regular roads. 55MPH = 55MPG in my experience.
My 94 Metro See's 70 MPH on the Interstate Monday thru Friday for 20 miles each way, however..........Traffic in our area is lite to moderate on the Interstate and the "Right Hand Lane" is the lane of choice for this car....:disappoin

I know it sounds a little shadetreeish but it works. If you decide to do it don't make the hose too long about 6 inches. If its too long it will over time get partially clogged from vapor condensation. I don't lose any oil nor does my oil get dirty from it. I get 50 mpg.
Heres a test. With the engine idling pull the dipstick out and listen for a little purge of air. If you want, you could tie it back in to your breather to use those bypassed hydrocarbons.

Does the hose act as a vent to allow oil to drain from the valve cover more quickly? Are there any dangers (however small) to doing this? I realize that it's a temporary fix and the right thing to do is to pull the head and get a gasket that's going to fit properly, but I don't have the time or energy to deal with the root problem right now.

The hose is only to keep dirt out by pointing it down. By using the dipstick tube as a vent for blowby it allows drainage of oil through the partially blocked drainage holes. It used to be a common practice for truck manufactures only they actually had a designated tube for that purpose. My oil doesn't get dirty nor do I lose any. I, like others, don't have the time right now to pull the head and replace the head gasket, and this does seem to correct the problem for now. I've been driving it like this almost a year now, no problems.