Front Wheel Bearings, 2000 blazer

Ok, got Haynes manual and AllDataDIY.

I figured out my right front wheel bearing is making a growling noise (thanks for the help on that, btw). I take off the caliper, the rotor, the hub dust cover.

And its hollow inside. I don't see any castellated nut or cotter pin, which all manuals point to. Do I need to remove the 3 bolts on the backside of the hub to be able to access the wheel bearing?

I'm sorry if this sounds dumb, I've never messed with the hub/wheel bearings, so I'm new to this.

BTW, is there any specific replacement wheel bearing and seals I need? Like a brand that is required or will any replacement part from O'Reilly's do?

Thanks

Is this a 2WD or a 4WD it sounds like a 2WD. After you removed the dust cap
use your finger and remove the excess greese. You should feel a cotter pin you have to remove this then remove the nut. Pull the rotor towards you and remove the washer and outer bearing. Put the washer and nut on finger tight
then when it touches the inner bearing pull on the rotor this will pop the seal out without damaging it. Then remove the nut and washer and remove the rotor. Use some kerosine and clean the inside of the rotor and both bearings.
Use a block of hard wood and drive out both inner bearings by tapping on both sides of the race for removal you can use a metal bar like rebar. Buy new bearings and seals. Rent a bearing race driver from O'Riley's I have used a piece of hard wood tapered so I could drive in the inner & outer bearing race in. If it is a 4WD buy a haynes manual when you buy your parts. It is more complicated to do.

I've found some info that says you take off 3x18mm bolts from the back, then implies you take the hub off to get to the next step.

I've found a replacement bearing hub for $213 (National brand) and $129 (Master Pro, O'Reilly's house brand). Any opinions on that? About $100 difference, though I have heard National is the best brand. I would like to save the cash, but not if Master Pro has a chance of being faulty or failing after a short time.

Do I need any seals, grease or anything else for this job? I see that I need a torque wrench and possibly a puller? A 37mm socket?

Thanks again

Thanks for info, though I think I'm more confused now. Pulled the rotor off, then the dust cover, I don't see anything inside. I'm assuming I need to remove the 3 bolts in the back of it to pull of the metal covering from the steering knuckle. (I'm not sure what the piece is called. I thought 'rotor' was the removable steel plate for the brakes. What's the piece behind that called?)

I checked on the parts for a 2000 blazer, they don't have any seals or individual bearings for sale. They carried sealed units only.

I apologize for bumbling through this, but first time going messing with a wheel assembly on this level. I have zero experience with bearings, hubs, etc. lol, in fact, I had to google the difference between a "bearing" and a "bearing hub", to make sure I understood what people were telling me.

I have a Haynes manual, but its mistaken apparently (94-04 models). It doesn't have the right removal process (and no pictures).

Thanks :)

I think your talking about a S-10 4WD blazer. I think the bolts you are talking about hold on the hub. You have to remove the 36mm or 38mm nut from the axle. Then you can remove the cv joint. Unbolt the hub then go to a parts store with a machine shop. They can remove the snap ring and press a new bearing in for you. This should save you some money. This is the way my sons older blazer was done.
I was thinking a 2WD vehicle.
Haynes manual has 2 sections describing this look.

No, its a 2WD. As best as I can figure out, you have to remove bolts from the inboard side to access the bearings at all. Removing the tire, rotor, dust cap reveals an empty cylinder. There are no castellated nuts, cotter pin or anything to be seen.

Is it possible and/or wise to re-press the bearings into the hub? It seems to come as a sealed, single unit. That would be nice to save money.

They are a complete sealed unit.
Best not to try to repack or mess with them.
When they get to making noise it is from dry damaged inside bearings.

When replacing use a good quality complete bearing assembly.
One of the times where aftermarket is a good replacement.
Like BCA/National.
Not the 90 day wonder el cheapo.
Good luck
MT

I looked at a picture in a manual for a 2001 silverado. You are correct the three bolts have to be removed. The only problem with pressing a bearing in is the anti lock setup. I think it can be done but am not sure. Ask a couple of parts stores with a machine shop. They will tell you if it can be done. I had a 1994 Mazda 929 with this type of front wheel bearing but only the ring was on this piece for the anti lock. They cost around $375.00 I purchased a used one for $150.00 then I found Napa had a bearing for $85.00. If they can change a bearing the bearing houses can match up a number. I use them for tractor bearings. I bought my own 20 ton press.
I changed a lot of front wheel drive bearings and never had a problem. They didn't have an anti lock setup in them. Thats the problem can they change it without damaging the sensor.
A machine shop will know this.

Thanks everyone for the info. I will just get the sealed unit, I'm not experienced enough to go for a having a bearing pressed.

Any other tools I need? I read a torque wrench, a 37(?)mm socket and possibly a puller. Is this correct for replacing a sealed bearing hub?

And do I need grease? Do I need to pack grease into the bearings (like the Haynes manual shows)?

Thanks, yet again.

If its a sealed bearing no greese is needed. A 36mm is a 1 7/16 inch appx. a 38mm is appx 1 1/2 inch a 35mm is appx 1 3/8 inch measure with a ruler. I have a 30mm,31mm,32mm,33mm,34mm,35mm,36mm,38mm and a Dodge 1 11/16 inch.
I didn't know they make a 37mm at least I never saw one. You need a torque wrench and possibly a puller. Pep Boys used to sell CRC bearings and if you asked match Auto Zones price. CRC is a better bearing. Be careful as the name brands went Chinese.

Found this on these forums regarding change. Guess I need something capable of 36mm. Anyone know if a 36mm socket will work on the axle nut, or do I need something else?

"Also need a torque wrench capable of 180 ft-lbs, and I used a gear puller to separate the cv.

Loosen 36mm axle nut
Pop off the wheel, caliper, rotor.
Disconnect ABS Sensor wire
Locate and remove 3 18mm? bolts on back of bearing
Remove axle nut and hub from CV axle
Clean surfaces
Install is reverse

Torquing the 3 bolts back up is a bitch 'cause you can't get a wrench in there. I guessed and luckily re-checked after a bit for the top bolt had loosed itself."

O'Riley's and Pep Boys sell a deep 36mm socket. They are tight but they will work. Advance and Auto Zone should have them. This depends on the size of the store.

Found this on these forums regarding change. Guess I need something capable of 36mm. Anyone know if a 36mm socket will work on the axle nut, or do I need something else?

"Also need a torque wrench capable of 180 ft-lbs, and I used a gear puller to separate the cv.

Loosen 36mm axle nut
Pop off the wheel, caliper, rotor.
Disconnect ABS Sensor wire
Locate and remove 3 18mm? bolts on back of bearing
Remove axle nut and hub from CV axle
Clean surfaces
Install is reverse

Torquing the 3 bolts back up is a bitch 'cause you can't get a wrench in there. I guessed and luckily re-checked after a bit for the top bolt had loosed itself."


If you have a 2W drive it does not have the front axel shaft and big nut.
No torquing on on baering or axel shaft no axel shaft to worry about.
MT

Thanks again MT. Doing the job tomorrow morning with my father helping. Any tools I do need that is uncommon? Puller? Torque wrench for the 18mm?

You are welcome.
Good set of metric sockets and a breaker bar for the bolts.
And sometimes some are torque head bolts.
Some are tight and tought to get lose.
The new bearing should have instructions and torque specs with it.
And remeber to torque the wheel lug bolts.
Good luck
MT

Hey guys/gals, thanks again. Got the job done and it was surprisingly easy. I stressed for nothing, it was bolt off, bolt on. Noise is gone and rides smooth.

Big thanks :)

You are welcome and thanks for posting back how it went.
Yes it is a piece of cake on changing them.
Glad all is well and fixed and quiet now.
MT