Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa

Hey Everybody,

I found some time to start a new project. Even though the CLK-DTM is not yet finished, I couldn´t resist when I got my handy on the fabolous Hasegawa kit. Because of the CLK-DTM I´m a little tired of all-detail-builds so I decided to make this one curbside, just adding the wonderful Hasegawa PE-wheels-set.

The paint will be pure white with french blue racing stripes adding the No. 14-decals from the kit. The paint-scheme is not a real one and I paint this one (f.ex. the firewall being white too) not regarding to the kit instructions. I just like to have an all white interior on a aluminium/silver base.

What have I done so far? The body is prepared. The hood glued in (as I said - OOB curbside model) and the second layer of primer is on. The inner side of the body is painted with a mix of silver and aluminium. Once my new paint has arrived this thing is just ready to be sprayed.

The side fenders are prepared for th second layer of primer. All the scoops are glued and puttied in. They seem to fit quite nicely on my kit, so I decided to add them, when the body is on the chassis.

The chassis is almost done. The seats will be covered with self-adhesive leatherlike cloth. I left all the parts out that won´t be visible later (f.ex. the engine covers - so I actually can´t name this one a Testa Rossa :nono: :nono: ). The exhaust as well as the front and rear brakes received a fair amount of wheathering - I just don´t want to have it all shiny.

Now some pictures:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2188.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2189.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2190.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2191.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2193.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2195.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2197.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2198.jpg

Comments, suggestions, criticism is highly appreciated.

Cheers Robert.

Sorry for the bad grammar and spelling, but it seems that the "edit"-option is locked for me. Once again, you shall reread before you hit the post-button :banghead:

Robert

Why did you glue the hood shut again?
Looks great.

Why robert, why!?!?

why omit the engine details when you already have it included!?
you still can save time by not wiring it up or add p/e...

oh man, i'm dying here trying to find another 250 engine for my builds & yet you choose to discard it when you have one!!!!
oh man, let me take some time to swallow this reality first...i'll chat with you later.

(i just fell off the chair!):banghead:

sad marc
SGP

Why did you glue the hood shut again?

I wanted to have a fast build and - quite frankly - you are one the builders here that made me realize that an engine not wired and detailed just looks like crap. And since I wouldn´t want this beauty to have such a naked engine and an open hood I just went for the closed version... It´s kind of funny that you guys are so disappointed about this.

Cheers

Robert

Yes robert,

because for me i feel this is the best difference between a machined die-cast & a sweat & blood hand build...

but still you have my support & audience-ship bro!
maybe after this build my perception on curbsides change! who knows...


marc:)
SGP

I wanted to have a fast build and - quite frankly - you are one the builders here that made me realize that an engine not wired and detailed just looks like crap. And since I wouldn´t want this beauty to have such a naked engine and an open hood I just went for the closed version... It´s kind of funny that you guys are so disappointed about this.

Cheers

Robert

Why didn't you leave the hood separate and at some time, when you have time, you could have detailed the engine?! You can leave the hood closed without glueing it.

Don't take this as criticism, just a question.

Ioan

You guys are really concerned about this issue...I find that amusing...never understodd your comments as criticism.
I considered the option you are asking for. But I know myself. Once a build is finished and in its display case I hardly touch it again except, there need to made some fixes to it. F.ex.: The rims on my BMW M1 "Map de France" could need a little more detailing. The car sits in the actual condition on my shelf since almost 4 years now. So, knowing me, not finishing the engine the first time around means it will never be finished. I´m just that lazy! Besides that I discover that I´m more and more the overall-look-and-paint-job-modeller. I´m not to keen on detailing - maybe because I´m not that good at it. Thanks for watching.

Robert

The instrument-panel - or whatever the correct term is - has been finished using BMF and the kits decals.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/instrument-panel.jpg

Robert

Keeping the thread updated. Maybe not so much that anybody contributes some comments but rather to have some sort of chronological build up report for myself, when finished.
Started to paint the body. Before that I puttied the front fenders in. What a hassle. Come on these fitted perfectly first, but it took me about three sessions of putty and sanding... Nevertheless. After inserting these fenders, I primered the whole body with two further layers of Tamiya White Primer followed by 3 layers of Tamiya TS-27 Flat White. Letting this dry for quite some time I layed three layers of Tamiya TS-26 Pure White onto the body. Right now, the whole thing sits in the micro wave gasing out.
The paint job came out rather nice - little orange peel I need to take of.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2218.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2222.jpg

When I got rid of the orange peel on my white base, I´m going to recreate this sort of paint scheme:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/rr-250-TESTA-ROSSAa.jpg
Differences will be that I´m going to use French Blue for the stripes and they will be a little further apart (the middle section will be broader).

Thanks for viewing

Robert

Looks excellent! :thumbsup:
It'a pity that you decided to glue the hood shut.

Robert, don't get so stressed about replies :) Most people are on vacation.

Looking good but you need to fill this join line IMO Even if you aren't detailing the engine which won't be seen (I don't see what the fuss is about on this issue - each to his own), this line will be ;)

BTW the join is a little bit of a b*tch to get rid of but a few rounds of "putty, sand, primer" does the job.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/robert.jpg

I really wanna get my hands on this kit. I used to have a 1/18 diecast of the 250 when I was a kid, but I rolled it across the kitchen floor too fast and that was the end of the windscreen.

Hi Robert,

great model so far. Don't worry about the closed hood - everybody needs a not-so-detailed-quick-build once in a while. You can always build the engine later and display it next to the car, this way it's also more visible than in the engine compartment.

Keep it going, I like your paint scheme idea very much (because I'm sick of red Ferraris from last year).

Cheers
SEB

PS: Are you coming to FFM in November? Would be nice to meet personally.

Looking good but you need to fill this join line IMO Even if you aren't detailing the engine which won't be seen (I don't see what the fuss is about on this issue - each to his own), this line will be ;)

BTW the join is a little bit of a b*tch to get rid of but a few rounds of "putty, sand, primer" does the job.

This will be taken care of. You really have eagle eyes, don´t ya. Nothing escapes your detailled examination.

Thanks for the replies. I´m not being stressed out on having almost none. I think it´s partly due to the subject. It is just a lot nicer to see some remarks on the build and the ideas put into it.

Robert

You really have eagle eyes, don´t ya. Nothing escapes your detailled examination.

Not really, Robert. It's just that the darn thing has been driving me bananas for the past few days so I am overly sensitive :icon16:

Almost there ... ;)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_09.jpg

looks great. I like the idea of build the way you wanted, if you know the finished model is going to stay close hood in the display case 99% of the time, then build it without the engine details. I think there is nothgin wrong with that.

looks great. I like the idea of build the way you wanted, if you know the finished model is going to stay close hood in the display case 99% of the time, then build it without the engine details. I think there is nothgin wrong with that.

Totally agree.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_09.jpg

Hey, Klutz, seems as we are approaching the same project. Have you ever wondered about the down going panel line at the rear of the door? I have found several pictures where it is not visible. What do you think? Keep it or putty it away?

Also, thank you everybody for your feedback on my project.

Robert

Have you ever wondered about the down going panel line at the rear of the door? I have found several pictures where it is not visible. What do you think? Keep it or putty it away?

If I understand you right, it looks to me as if it stays. But who knows...? :)

http://images36.fotki.com/v1181/file61mF/77349/5/53649/415436/DSCN3615.jpg

Looks good so far! Well, i think you should keep the panel lines. Just that the two lines below the doors are actually very fine.

Ro

i think you should keep the panel lines. Just that the two lines below the doors are actually very fine.
I agree. But on the other hand, I wouldn't turn a mole hill into a mountain :D
The join line on the wing I (personally) feel detracts a little from the lovely flow of the fenders but the panel line below the door doesn't really intrude IMHO

I also found this one on my HDD Robert

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/panel-lines.jpg

I have found some time and went on working on the Testa Rossa. First of all I reputied the fender-panel-line about three more times. Finally I will give it another shot of white, when the wheather gets better of here.

In the mean time I took a shot at doing the seats. I went down another path than the other 250TR-builds and used MFH-leather-cloth for seats. I´m quite pleased with the result wanting to try this for a long time. I thought that building some sort of a spyder would make sense to use this material.

Let me know, what you think:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2228.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2230.jpg

This is just a test fit, since all of the interior will be fitted when the body is on due to the need to move the bulkwall behind the seats in order to fit the body without cracking the fender panel lines once again. I will tell you how it turns out.

Robert

The leather looks....real :lol:

Nice touch Robert :thumbsup:

Small Update:
As I try to kep up with this other 250 TR around on this forum - yeah guys you know which one I mean - I managed to test fit the wheels from the Hasegawa Wire Wheel Set, which I find very decent. Couldn´t resist and took some outdoor pics.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2232.jpg

Don´t worry about the fuzzy leather on the seats. Won´t be visible when finished - promise.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2243.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2234.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2235.jpg

I kind of like this bare chassis - just having the wheels on.

Bad news from the panel line section: I reputied this whole darn thing about three times. Worked well when reprimered and smoothened using 2000 grit paper.
Then it happened - again. I did another test fit to find out whether it would remain puttied and nonvisible. Both panel lines brook open again. I will leave this matter now and paint both hoping that they are not as visible as would have been in the first place. And then there is this great plan using a decal over them...
Maybe the next project will figure out how to keep these panellines from breaking after being puttied and everything. My wisdom is quite vanished on this issue.

Robert

Bad news from the panel line section:
:(

I finally cracked the secret I think.

Holding the body upside down, trunk towards you. First you need to slot the rear end in as far back as it will go. Then start lowering the front end and engine down and into the body (support form underneath with your fingers through the hood hole).

Gradually bring it down and in, slightly widening the body as it goes. You'll probably feel something "click" in place - that'll be one half of the bulkhead behind the seats. At this point you need to slide the chassis forward in the body a little to make sure that the rear of the chassis can fit into its assigned slot in the body.

A gentle process of down...forward...down..forward with a tad of widening as you go along sees it slip in fairly easily with no dramas - at least for me.

IMO it's also key NOT to try and force it. if you are meeting resistance, try again. It took me 3 or 4 attempts to get to feel the process and drop it in but really, it went in no more problematically than you would expect in this kind of process.

:(

I finally cracked the secret I think.

Holding the body upside down, trunk towards you. First you need to slot the rear end in as far back as it will go. Then start lowering the front end and engine down and into the body (support form underneath with your fingers through the hood hole).

Gradually bring it down and in, slightly widening the body as it goes. You'll probably feel something "click" in place - that'll be one half of the bulkhead behind the seats. At this point you need to slide the chassis forward in the body a little to make sure that the rear of the chassis can fit into its assigned slot in the body.

A gentle process of down...forward...down..forward with a tad of widening as you go along sees it slip in fairly easily with no dramas - at least for me.

IMO it's also key NOT to try and force it. if you are meeting resistance, try again. It took me 3 or 4 attempts to get to feel the process and drop it in but really, it went in no more problematically than you would expect in this kind of process.

Thanks for this very useful info! :)

Before making use of Klutz´s hint I need to actually paint this...

Five layers of Pure White TS-26 and a whole morning of masking and four shots of French Blue (TS-10) later:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2257.jpg

Since I usually just do one-color-paint-jobs I was very interested how this one looked without the masking tape. This is what I got so far:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2268.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2263.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2262.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2261.jpg

Now I need to clean the panel between the white and blue as well get rid of some bleeding (any tips for that - rough sanding doesn´t seem to be an option). After that it will be clear coat - Gunze this time.

Robert

P.S.: Comments and tips for getting rid of the bleed are very welcome.

get rid of some bleeding (any tips for that - rough sanding doesn´t seem to be an option)

Take a sharp knife or even a scalpel and scrape it off the white veeeeeeeeery carefully. Worked fine for me several times. Paint has to be fully cured for this!

Very nice looking TR! :sunglasse

I didn´t like the oob-grill. :nono: :nono:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2298.jpg

To make a new one I needed a frame to hold the mesh. So this is my first ever and very simply "how to drill a oob-frame without using a saw" :iceslolan :

You start to drill the molded mesh.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2301.jpg

Now its much easier to cut the inner plastic mesh using a sharp knife connecting all the drilled holes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2303.jpg

Use a knife, a rasp or sanding paper to get the rest of the plastic out until you just have the frame left:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2304.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2305.jpg

The frame covered with mesh (from the back):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2307.jpg

Front grill being just painted. Ready to get into the body:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/knobi23232/250%20TR/CIMG2309.jpg

I know this was rather simple. But I thought I´d share anyways - maybe I was bored...

Robert

This is a very cool build! I may have to seriously see about this kit! That bare chassis looks terrific with those wheels mounted!! :sunglasse