Changing Auto Trans Fluid in 2002 4x4

I want to change the oil Trans fluid(automatic) on my 2002 4x4 1/2 with 4.8 L v-8. There is a linkage or cable alongside one side of the oil pan just below 2 or 3 of the bolts. Does that need to be removed in order for the oil pan to clear it? If so, how is it removed?

Yes, and if you're not careful in doing it, you will damage your shift cable. Been there, done that, replacement cable $190 - KA-CHING!

There are two T35 Torx bolts on the top of this bracket, vertically oriented and a bitch to remove with the available (lack of) space. What I wound up ultimately doing was using a bar to bend the bracket out, just enough to clear those pan bolts you speak of. Don't do what I did, learn from MY mistake and REMOVE THE SHIFT CABLE before you do this, if you do it! You can use a rubber mallet to return the bracket to normal position after you're done.

One more warning: At the extreme rear of the valve body (assuming you have a 4L60E) are two solenoids. If you so much as just touch one of these solenoids with the pan when you're taking the pan off or putting it back, you will disconnect the wire to it. This will result in a transmission that starts in 2nd gear and a MIL ignition (check engine light). Watch for this! The transmission mount is extremely close and it is very easy to do.

I want to change the oil Trans fluid(automatic) on my 2002 4x4 1/2 with 4.8 L v-8. There is a linkage or cable alongside one side of the oil pan just below 2 or 3 of the bolts. Does that need to be removed in order for the oil pan to clear it? If so, how is it removed?

silicon is absolutely right - that bracket is a b... to get off. esp, if you don't know what size torx wrenches to use, and try to determine size of them by touch!
anyways, no drain plug? you said fluid only, no fluid/filter. mine does have drain plug (5.3L)
problem with mine is, that plug is obviously welded into the pan, as neither wrenches, no power tools, nore cheatbar managed to losen it. i ended up with it pretty much stripped and am now changing fluid by sucking it out through the refill/dipstick tube, quart at a time.:loser: :crying:
now that i know the size of those torx bolts, maybe i'll attempt it again. i think dealership $400 price tag on the job is correct this time.
chilton also says to remove heat shield on the exhaust side.

Thanks for giving me a heads up on that cable. I poked around at the bracket and like you say, its real tight in there.
The exact same thing happened to me as did to ukrkoz. The drain plug was impossible to take off and I ended up stripping the corners as well. I have to agree with the plug being welded in the pan. By the way, I plan to change the filter as well as the oil, once the pan comes down.
I only wish that they would come up with the same idea as the Allison, with an exterior filter.

Thanks for the response, it is much appreciated.

Al

Someone once said here that you need a special socket to remove the pan drain plug, as it's actually tapered and not a normal 15mm cut head. Like everyone else, that damned thing stripped - on 2 trucks - one a '99 4x4 and the other an '02 4x2. The '99 4x4 is the one I broke the cable on, so be careful what you do! There's a staple like thing that's wedged in the anchor for the cable, remove this before you attempt to remove the cable (and put it back when you're done). This prevents the cable from popping off while you're on the road.

Again, keep an eye out for the rear solenoids on the 4L60E valve body - you have to sort of maneuver the pan around the trans crossmember and you will likely touch one (or both) of these - make sure those wires stay connected or you will be dropping that pan again! Go ahead, ask me how I know about this!

The solenoids I speak of are pointed to with red lines.

http://www.silicon212.org/4L60Evb640.jpg

I have removed the drain plug without the special socket,a very good 15mm 6 point socket.The front driveshaft has to come out too and the exhaust from the manifolds loosened up.You can bend the shifter cable bracket just enough to clear the pan,be careful when doing this.If the filter kit comes with the black pan gasket,throw it away and I know why.That pan gaskets is known for leaks.The cork gasket is better the the black pan gasket.

i am THE LAST person in the world to give dealership an opportunity to make money on me, but reading all this - i'll keep sucking that fluid out through the dipstick tube and save $400 and let them do it when it "gets there".
this truck never stops to amaze me. on one hand, there's so much thought put into it, and it is surprisingly easy to work on - and did i have my share of that in a year of ownership! on the other hand, some dumb ass crap like this will definitely push people away from dealing with chevys in the future. you almost have to believe that they did it all on purpose, including that ridiculous bolt head in the drain plug, so that you just can't DIY and have no choice but to go to dealership.
i know boys in quick lube places use air guns to tighten drain plugs, but my truck 100% was not in their hands, so i can't blaim them on overtorquing the plug. so it came like this outta the factory. of course, the rest of it beats even the plug.
hey, don't take me wrong - i ain't no wuss in repairs, we have done things in the street corner that takes mechanics with shops days to accomplish. but this is simply beyond me, with bending brackets, removing half undercarriage, and watching them plugs. i guess i'll just kill this trannie and swap for HD allison, those are told to be running forever. mine sucks anyway.
BTW, it really likes Mobil1 trans fluid. very much.

I've always pulled the pan on a transmission to drain it. I will add a drain plug to the pan of my own transmission, but when I have to replace a filter, I always pull the pan. So, the drain plug that doesn't work doesn't scare me. In the one case, I simply drilled a hole in a pan with a stripped head drain bolt, giving it in effect two drain plugs (but one works!).

My point is, don't be discouraged because a drain plug on a transmission doesn't live up to its billing. Many years went by when transmissions did not have drain plugs.

Also, the truck I bent the bracket (and broke the shift cable) on was a 1999 4x4 w/ a 4.8 like yours. I did not loosen the exhaust or remove any crossmembers or the front driveshaft or anything - just bent the bracket out of the way and took the pan out (and disconnected one of those solenoids). Be careful and you can do this too - it really isn't that hard.

I want to change the oil Trans fluid(automatic) on my 2002 4x4 1/2 with 4.8 L v-8. There is a linkage or cable alongside one side of the oil pan just below 2 or 3 of the bolts. Does that need to be removed in order for the oil pan to clear it? If so, how is it removed?


the drain plug on trans pan is lock tighted ....after removing the pan use a small torch after the drain plug starts to turn red unscrew plug with the 6 point socket with steady force....the cold socket will shrink the plug and the lock tight will release its grip.....next time you will be able to use plug and drain all but 1.5qts....this will allow pan removal without spillage...


use a torx bit set and a small rachet side wrench that fits 1/4in...then after removal of the torx use some anti sieze on theads so the next time the torx comes off easier..


i drop pan every 30,ooomi and the filter is replaced every other time....I also use rubber pan gasket at 7ft lbs torque with torque wrench...if you like to over torque this gasket/pan bolts use a cheap one use cork gasket....do not use air rachets on hardware metal is soft....



the use of synthetic trans fluid eliminated the sometimes weird shifting that this transmission is known for...this was my experience...since 2000...

All I see nothing but problems with the black rubber pan gaskets leaking.I throw them away and use the cork gaskets from a transmision parts place,package of 10.The cork gaskets hold up longer than the black rubber gaskets.

All I see nothing but problems with the black rubber pan gaskets leaking.I throw them away and use the cork gaskets from a transmision parts place,package of 10.The cork gaskets hold up longer than the black rubber gaskets.


I'm aware of your dislike of these reuasable rubber pan gaskets but my experience with them is flawless....so far its been 5years and 3x reused and still never a leak.... torque must be 7ftlbs on pan bolts...rubber will get damaged if torqued to cork gasket levels....

When I changed mine in my 99 4x4 I remember having to use an impact to get the drain plug out and I luckily did it without damaging the torx head of the plug.It certainly did not want to come out but eventually it did,also I remember having to pry the Y pipe back to get the pan down past it and removing the heat shield on the side.A friend at a tranny shop said to really get a true fluid change you need to get all the fluid out including whats in the torque converter and from what I've gathered the only way to do that is to remove the lower trans line from the rad or cooler and run the engine until the fluid stream starts to spit and at that point you'll have 95% of the fluid out.Just reattach the line,add new fluid and start the engine,run it till warm and top up the fluid.I removed the top line when I did mine and it didn't get all the old fluid out and I was changing mine over to synthetic so I've still got work to do.

The black rubber gaskets are a pain to straighten in the filter kits since they are mangled in a ball when in the box.Where I work,get the filters from a transmission parts place called D&E in a package of 10 which is better and cheaper instead of calling the parts store and waiting for it.Most transmission shops probally do not torque pan bolts,use an 3/8" drive impact because it is faster and want it done now.

The black rubber gaskets are a pain to straighten in the filter kits since they are mangled in a ball when in the box.Where I work,get the filters from a transmission parts place called D&E in a package of 10 which is better and cheaper instead of calling the parts store and waiting for it.Most transmission shops probally do not torque pan bolts,use an 3/8" drive impact because it is faster and want it done now.

yes I'm familiar with the transmission shop routine...this is why i prefer to do this myself...


the rubber gaskets will quickly flatten out with use of hair drier/heat gun...

When I changed mine in my 99 4x4 I remember having to use an impact to get the drain plug out and I luckily did it without damaging the torx head of the plug.It certainly did not want to come out but eventually it did,also I remember having to pry the Y pipe back to get the pan down past it and removing the heat shield on the side.A friend at a tranny shop said to really get a true fluid change you need to get all the fluid out including whats in the torque converter and from what I've gathered the only way to do that is to remove the lower trans line from the rad or cooler and run the engine until the fluid stream starts to spit and at that point you'll have 95% of the fluid out.Just reattach the line,add new fluid and start the engine,run it till warm and top up the fluid.I removed the top line when I did mine and it didn't get all the old fluid out and I was changing mine over to synthetic so I've still got work to do.

your proceedure to replace transmission fluid in the torque converter is not recommended by GM if fluid needs complete replacing....


on your prying on the Y exhaust pipes I now know how the bolts got broken...