steering vibration
saltyfrog
06-16-2008, 05:13 PM
I have a 2000 Silverado 2500, 6.0 motor, 4x4, 130K miles. I had a leaking power steering pump so I replaced it. After putting on a new one I got a vibration, feels kind of like if I need an alignment. At first I thought I got a bad pump so I took it back and got another one, but still the same problem. I also replaced the hydro boost after this. The vibration goes away when I turn the wheel to about 10-11 o'clock. There is no vibration when parked, only when driving. Reading the forum I'm guessing either an evo problem (I can't see a sensor though, do I need to dissasemble the column to see it? There is no sensor on the power steering pump.) or steering gear problem. Any ideas what the problem might be? Also, since I replaced the pump, about 1 out of 10 times I start it up the abs and brake warning lights come on.
Thanks.
Thanks.
SLJ2137694
06-17-2008, 12:05 PM
Alignment issues do not cause vibrations. If you have the ABS light coming on you may have a code stored, you may want to have it scaned for a code. The red brake light may indicate a problem with the base brake system, parking brake on, low fluid level, etc. You may have an unbalanced spool valve in the steering gear. My advice is take it to a qualified technician, guessing is getting expensive.
saltyfrog
06-17-2008, 12:37 PM
Thanks for the reply.
My first guess was that I needed to adjust my power steering control valve but I then realized that wasn't possible... Would an unbalanced spool valve cause an error code that can be scanned?
Thanks.
My first guess was that I needed to adjust my power steering control valve but I then realized that wasn't possible... Would an unbalanced spool valve cause an error code that can be scanned?
Thanks.
SLJ2137694
06-17-2008, 12:41 PM
The spool valve which MIGHT be the problem will not set a code.
j cAT
06-19-2008, 04:36 PM
I have a 2000 Silverado 2500, 6.0 motor, 4x4, 130K miles. I had a leaking power steering pump so I replaced it. After putting on a new one I got a vibration, feels kind of like if I need an alignment. At first I thought I got a bad pump so I took it back and got another one, but still the same problem. I also replaced the hydro boost after this. The vibration goes away when I turn the wheel to about 10-11 o'clock. There is no vibration when parked, only when driving. Reading the forum I'm guessing either an evo problem (I can't see a sensor though, do I need to dissasemble the column to see it? There is no sensor on the power steering pump.) or steering gear problem. Any ideas what the problem might be? Also, since I replaced the pump, about 1 out of 10 times I start it up the abs and brake warning lights come on.
Thanks.
check for the balancing weights for falling off...also check tie rods for excessive play... my tie rod was worn inner right side and i got vibe's.....
Thanks.
check for the balancing weights for falling off...also check tie rods for excessive play... my tie rod was worn inner right side and i got vibe's.....
ukrkoz
06-29-2008, 10:12 PM
vibration is never caused by tierod ends or tierods. matter of fact, unless you have reck and pinion, there are no tierods, only tie rod ends and trailing arm.
1. unbalanced tires, irrelevant to what you did, just coinsidence.
2. check hub bearings. if worn, those will give you vibration, esp when driving over a bump.
3. worn pitman and idler will manifest itself with "snaking" all over the lane at freeway speeds and "death wobble" - severe shake of the whole entire front when driving over a bump at higher speeds. esp if you have, like i did, hub bearing and idler bad at the same time.
matter of fact, it is hard to troubleshoot your particular situation, as there are all kinds of vibrations: body vibration, steering wheel vibration, front end vibration vs rear end vibration, vibrations at high vs low speeds, turning vs driving straight, etc.
as of abs light coming up, you might have gotten some fluid onto the hubs during pump change, and it interfered with abs sensor function. abs will not come up when brake fluid is low, put brake light will. i'd simply start with cleaning hubs with good brake cleaner, esp next to abs sensors.
1. unbalanced tires, irrelevant to what you did, just coinsidence.
2. check hub bearings. if worn, those will give you vibration, esp when driving over a bump.
3. worn pitman and idler will manifest itself with "snaking" all over the lane at freeway speeds and "death wobble" - severe shake of the whole entire front when driving over a bump at higher speeds. esp if you have, like i did, hub bearing and idler bad at the same time.
matter of fact, it is hard to troubleshoot your particular situation, as there are all kinds of vibrations: body vibration, steering wheel vibration, front end vibration vs rear end vibration, vibrations at high vs low speeds, turning vs driving straight, etc.
as of abs light coming up, you might have gotten some fluid onto the hubs during pump change, and it interfered with abs sensor function. abs will not come up when brake fluid is low, put brake light will. i'd simply start with cleaning hubs with good brake cleaner, esp next to abs sensors.
saltyfrog
08-19-2008, 05:51 PM
Well, after driving with the vibration for a while I eventually realized it was the front wheel bearing. Problem solved!
Thanks for all the input.
Thanks for all the input.
ukrkoz
08-19-2008, 06:13 PM
Well, after driving with the vibration for a while I eventually realized it was the front wheel bearing. Problem solved!
Thanks for all the input.
well, i have dual feelings - glad i was right on hub bearing and sorry you have to fix it. it's no big deal job, takes about 20 minutes to do and will set you back about $170 shucks. you'll need size 36 deep socket, schucks has those for rent, some six bucks, in what they call "front end kit". biggest effort is to break halfshaft nut lose, after that it rolls fine.
now, i hope you CHECKED the bearing, not just "have that feeling".
Thanks for all the input.
well, i have dual feelings - glad i was right on hub bearing and sorry you have to fix it. it's no big deal job, takes about 20 minutes to do and will set you back about $170 shucks. you'll need size 36 deep socket, schucks has those for rent, some six bucks, in what they call "front end kit". biggest effort is to break halfshaft nut lose, after that it rolls fine.
now, i hope you CHECKED the bearing, not just "have that feeling".
j cAT
08-19-2008, 08:29 PM
Well, after driving with the vibration for a while I eventually realized it was the front wheel bearing. Problem solved!
Thanks for all the input.
how many miles do you think you can drive on a bad bearing???
how many did you drive before the change out???
Thanks for all the input.
how many miles do you think you can drive on a bad bearing???
how many did you drive before the change out???
saltyfrog
08-21-2008, 03:45 PM
I drove many miles on that bearing, once the lightbulb came on and I checked it there was a LOT of play in it. Worst part about replacing it was getting the brake caliper off...
But everything is good now. :biggrin:
how many miles do you think you can drive on a bad bearing???
how many did you drive before the change out???
But everything is good now. :biggrin:
how many miles do you think you can drive on a bad bearing???
how many did you drive before the change out???
j cAT
08-21-2008, 04:07 PM
I drove many miles on that bearing, once the lightbulb came on and I checked it there was a LOT of play in it. Worst part about replacing it was getting the brake caliper off...
But everything is good now. :biggrin:
Those caliper fasteners are another bad GM idea....
But everything is good now. :biggrin:
Those caliper fasteners are another bad GM idea....
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