Ebay Wheel Bearings

Just out of curiousity, has anyone tried any of those "new" wheel bearings (for Grand Prix, with speed sensors) off sellers on Ebay? What was your experience with the product?

Hi,

I've tried them. They work fine, but they are low quality Chinese imports... only good for a year (30,000 kilometers or so) before needing replacement. If you're keeping the car long, go with the brand name.

Cheers,

Jake

So I've been looking around for wheel bearings as I need a new driver's front...I've heard good things about some of ZZP's products...has anyone used their wheel bearings? They offer a LIFETIME guarantee, which typically isn't offered on a product that isn't going to work...

Link

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=837&catid=138

Lifetime guarantee?!?! How can they get away with selling it so cheap?? I have to replace my front bearing aswell and I was going to use BCA National. It costs $108.89 from rockauto.com plus shipping but it seems resonable.

I too am curious to know if anyone has used ZZP's bearing?? if there are good results I will use them instead.

Bought a set off of ebay for my denali for $105/side w/sensors. So far so good with 20,000 kms on them and no problems. Gm dealer wanted almost $800 each w/sensor. Have not had to do my GTP yet....

I couldn't wait any longer, the grinding is getting louder so I ordered the BCA National one.
A little heads up for Canadian buyers like me :) ZZP doesn't include duty in there shipping quotes but rock auto does. It changes the final cost considerably. Thought you should know.

Is BCA/National good? I was trying to look into them...it seems they're associated with Federal-Mogul. I'm not too familiar with them but Federal-Mogul deals with Moog, and I know Moog is good, so would that mean BCA is good? They're not a bad price, 150 after shipping and duties.

I searched this forum and found this thread, about the 7th post down it starts talking about BCA.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=521207&highlight=wheel+bearing+bca+national
I also read a couple other ones that said BCA is ok...not trying to rhyme :smile: The BCA hub part # that is recomended (mentioned to purchase) is 513121. The part # I ordered is 513179. Maybe I got the lesser of the 2 but what can you do...what is it with the rymes :confused: I thought the price was great as the only hub/bearing I can get around here is SKF for 259.99....DON'T THINK SO!!!! I added an air and fuel filter and spent 169...NICE :smokin:

Ok, well Rock Auto carries PN 513121 so I think I'll order that one up...the price is not too bad, even after duties and shipping. Odd that they don't state the warranty on that website...but from what Bnaylor said it's one year...

Oh, weird...I can't link this, but it explains this hub as "first design" and lists the applicable Grand Prix's as:

PONTIACGRAND PRIX(1998 - 2001)PONTIACGRAND PRIX GT(1997 - 1998)PONTIACGRAND PRIX GTP(1997 - 1998)PONTIACGRAND PRIX SE(1997 - 1998)

The second design covers from 2001 to 2003. It appears this hub works in 2001 Buick Regal GS as well...so question is, will it work in my 2001 Grand Prix GTP? Is the difference of design based on the switch from 4t60e to 4t65hd?

PN 513121 or PN 513179 is first design? I have a 2002 GT, could be why we are seeing different Part Numbers?

The difference in the hubs is not related to the transaxle. It lists the 1997-1998 GTP which have the 4T65E-HD transaxle and not the 4T60E.

The hubs and wheel sensor are basically the same. The difference between first and second design is the first design has the stainless steel wire spring clip for the electrical connector and second design has plastic sensor wire with clip.

On the AC Delco brand hubs the first and second design changes are obvious since I've worked with both but not sure about the aftermarket brands.

Thanks for the info...Maybe I can take pics of my hub and Highbeamz can take pics of his and compare??

The part you want to take a pic of is where the electrical connector from the hub mounts to the bracket on the backside of the hub. If you have a 2001 and up GP you will most likely need the second design hub so in the BCA brand it will be the latter of the two part numbers (513179). In a nutshell the 2000 and under GP models have the stainless steel metal clip attached to the electrical connector from the hub. The second design uses the plastic thing.

For example my '97 GTP and wife's '99 Regal LS have the metal clip. My '01 Regal GS has the plastic so for this year I would need the second design hub.

The pic below is for example purposes but you can see the metal clip on the electrical connector from the hub wheel sensor which is applicable to 2000 and under.

BTW - The hub shown is an AC Delco which comes with the 3 hub bolts and a new axle nut.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06410.jpg

Going by the pic of the one I ordered(513179) it looks like it comes with the 3 hub bolts. As far as the axle nut goes I will have to wait until it arrives(Mon-Tues) to see. Should I replace the axle nut?? and by the look of your pic you changed the 5 rim bolts to?

Going by the pic of the one I ordered(513179) it looks like it comes with the 3 hub bolts. As far as the axle nut goes I will have to wait until it arrives(Mon-Tues) to see. Should I replace the axle nut?? and by the look of your pic you changed the 5 rim bolts to?

Technically a new axle nut should be used but not necessary as long as it is in good shape. For example GM's published torque figures on axle nut and hub bearing pre-load indicates the figures are with a new axle nut not old.

On the 5 wheel studs they come with any new hub whether GM/AC Delco or aftermarket so the ones you see came with this hub installed.

The hub(513179) came Monday and guess what?.... NO HUB BOLTS :mad: So I'm going to get some tomorrow to do the job. I printed the instructions from the forum and got the brother in laws torque wrench. DIY here I come :smokin:

Also, I will be taking step by step photos of the process(for my records)

BNaylor, I can email them to you to post in the tips and maintenance section to go along with the instructions if you like??

No Hub Bolts? What kind of crap is that? Do you mean the 5 studs that are used to attach the wheel, or the 3 bolts that attach the hub to the steering knuckle? If it didnt come with wheel studs, I'd be pissed. It wouldnt suprize me if it doesnt come with the hub to knuckle bolts.

Don't forget to sand all the rust off of the steering knuckle and apply a think layer of anti-sieze where the hub mates to it. Aids in future removal.

BTW, Bob (Bnaylor) is a busy guy not only being a MOD in a ton of other AF forums, also with work/family. I'm sure he wont mind if you post you own article in the tipps and maintenance section. You can use www.imageshack.us to host your pictures for free.

You might find it handy to have an extra 13 & 15mm socket. I broke one of each when I did mine.

No Hub Bolts? What kind of crap is that? Do you mean the 5 studs that are used to attach the wheel, or the 3 bolts that attach the hub to the steering knuckle? If it didnt come with wheel studs, I'd be pissed. It wouldnt suprize me if it doesnt come with the hub to knuckle bolts.

Don't forget to sand all the rust off of the steering knuckle and apply a think layer of anti-sieze where the hub mates to it. Aids in future removal.

BTW, Bob (Bnaylor) is a busy guy not only being a MOD in a ton of other AF forums, also with work/family. I'm sure he wont mind if you post you own article in the tipps and maintenance section. You can use www.imageshack.us to host your pictures for free.

Didn't come with the 3 that attach the hub to the steering knuckle. :mad:

Thanks for the tip about sanding the rust off and adding anti-sieze. I totally would've just put the new one on without any of that.

As for the pics, thanks for that info on Bob, I think I will do that to. I have hosting already through www.photobucket.com

wlkjr, as for the sockets I picked up my brother in laws sockets. I am pretty sure their go time ones as their for use on farm equipement. If they break, I'm thinkin I'll have major problems doing this today....crossing my fingers LOL

Thanks again all!!

On the sockets make sure they are 6 point, the 12 point type is worthless. The most fun will be with the 3 hub to steering knuckle bolts. PBBlaster will come in handy to remove the old ones.

On a tech procedure feel free to use the one we have posted, improvise, add to it and add the pics. You can post a whole new thread at Tips & Maintenance or append to the old one. Good luck!

Judging by the discussion I take it you don't recommend reusing the old knuckle to hub studs? Where do you suggest getting them if I need new ones with mine, or do most parts stores carry them?

What about carefully using a acetylene torch on the bolts. When I can that is what I use.

Its all done!!!!! :smokin: I will work on posting the pics in the tips and maintenance section today.

I got my hub bolts from the dealer as no part store carried them. $2.73 each. I got 6 of them as I'm thinking the other side will go to at some point.

I didn't have any trouble getting the 3 hub bolts out. I put the air gun on them and they came out with very little effort. I'll post the link to the post that I'm working (with pics) on in this thread so all can take a look.

I didn't have any trouble getting the 3 hub bolts out. I put the air gun on them and they came out with very little effort.

Air impact gun....cheating or easy way out? :uhoh:.......:lol:

You didn't use it to install the hub did you? What torque figure did you use on the 3 hub bolts and the axle nut?

Air impact gun....cheating or easy way out? :uhoh:.......:lol:

You didn't use it to install the hub did you? What torque figure did you use on the 3 hub bolts and the axle nut?

I guess I'll go with the easy way out. :naughty: I torqued the 3 hubs to 96 ft-lbs as per your post in the tips and maintenance section. As for the axle nut, I didn't have an adapter to go from a 1/2" drive to a 3/4" drive so I used the old method of "good and tight" :eek: I know what your going to say "if you didn't have a torque wrench to do the job right, don't even attempt it" I plan on getting the adapter I need and getting the nut to torque specs, 159 ft-lbs. I am also going to get a new axle nut when I do it as mine got a little banged up :banghead:

Here is the link to my post in the tips and maintenance thread...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=909924

Here is the link to my post in the tips and maintenance thread...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=909924

Post at Tips & Maintenance looks good. We'll leave it open/unlocked for any further discussion. I can see why you had so much problem getting the axle shaft spindle out of the hub. I'm glad I don't have all that rust. :grinno: You must be up North in Canada.

Unusual having to split the CV joint as seen in your procedure and pics.

Nice write-up and pics. I broke two sockets when I did mine, but I didn't have any trouble getting the old hub assembly off.
Definitely a money saving diy project and rewarding knowing that you did it right.

Post at Tips & Maintenance looks good. We'll leave it open/unlocked for any further discussion. I can see why you had so much problem getting the axle shaft spindle out of the hub. I'm glad I don't have all that rust. :grinno: You must be up North in Canada.

Unusual having to split the outer CV joint as seen in your procedure and pics.


Thanks!! :) and as far as being in Canada you guessed it...I am in Canada. Southern Ontario between Toronto and Ottawa. ROAD SALT EVERYWHERE :mad: and no drive thru car wash. :frown:

Nice write-up and pics. I broke two sockets when I did mine, but I didn't have any trouble getting the old hub assembly off.
Definitely a money saving diy project and rewarding knowing that you did it right.


Thank you. I don't even want to think of how much it would have cost at a shop. I'm sure I saved a boat load of cash :smokin: