2000 GTP Key Stuck in Ignition Please Help!

Guys Another one... Saw Red Tipps recent post, but my problem is a little different....

Pulled into my driveway today, and when I went to turn the car off, the key turned back, but not all the way and wouldnt come out.

I tried in neutral, park, turning the wheel, tilting the wheel... Nothing.

I did however figure out that if I repeatidly turn the ignition on/off/on/off/on over and over again, the key will finally turn all the way back and release.

I dont have time to mess with it today, and probably wont untill about friday for that matter.

I have attached a copy of the Shift Interlock Circuit as my problem seems electrical. I was hoping maybe someone who is good at reading schematics and has dealt with this problem before can lead me in the right direction.

Thanks Guys!

http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2850/shiftinterlockcircuitjb4.jpg

Full Sized Image Can be downloaded here (http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/4346/shiftinterlockcircuityf1.jpg) for anyone who needs this info in the future.

Interesting...says the BTSI fuse should be hot in off...mine has not voltage when in off, wonder if they would change anything from 00' to 03'?

From the scematic looks like you have 3 major systems that control our ignitions. A BTSI solenoid, a Park/neutral solenoid, and a switch when you push on the brake pedal which gives power to your BTSI solenoid, and your park position switch contols the solenoid with a mechanical lock in your ignition.. First things first I would check your fuses. check your IGN 1 MAIN, and your BTSI fuse and see if you are getting voltage to them. If ANY of these arent working properly it will disable your whole ignition since they all intertwine with each other, and without one the other wont work(like checks and balances haha)...alright not funny. The Park/neutral saftey switch will only allow you to start it in park or neutral...have you tried moving the shifter around while trying to start, or rocking the shifter back and forth while in park?

Under your dash theres a little pop off plug that goes right up to your manual key release. If it gets stuck again pop that off and then stick something thin up in there...pen/pencil works good and it will release your key for the time being. How does your key look? Sometimes getting a new key cut will solve the problem. Powdered graphite or WD-40 sometims works also to loosen up sticky tumblers. Just dont use them together or when it dries up the graphite will be like cement and then your really screwed

they told me at a local gm car dealership that it is my gear shift assembly that keeps my key from coming out of the ignition

the assembly cost 295.00 and 64.00 labor

Thanks guys for the info. Its rather Odd! All day today had no further problems, I went to a few places and the was able to be let out at all places.

Then when I got hom into my drivway, the key wouldn't release and I had to do some playing with it. Very odd

When you park are you on an incline? Mine goes to the dealership monday so i hoping it is just a bad lock cylinder...not a shifter assembly.

Nope, no incline for me.

u can pull up in my driveway or autozone or anywhere, park the car , get out of it and the key will not come out,,,,,,,,,,,let it set there for a long while and then come and get in the car and turn the key on and off and sometime it will come out of the ignition
this is a crazy deal
how can we fix it

i have an key tumbler ordered from rockauto.com to start trying to fix mine and i will buy it all a piece at a time so i will tell the fix when i get it fixed

meantime, keep the keyless entry handy so u can lock the car so nobody steals it from you and do not the insurance company

i read where when you get home it will not come out, the car does not like the neighborhood, u need to move

thanks for the advice.

I feel like just disabling the whole system so I never have to deat with it again.

I mean, c'mon, when was the last time your key got bumped and turned all the way back while you were driving and the steering wheel locked?

There's got to be a way.

One more question.... Does anyone know if the same park/nuetral switch in this system is the same one thats used in the starting system to start the car? Or is there a different one?

Interesting...says the BTSI fuse should be hot in off...mine has not voltage when in off, wonder if they would change anything from 00' to 03'?

Nope. :grinno:

I think there is some confusion here on how the circuit works. To clarify OFF is the position before LOCK or before RUN if you go to START depending on what direction you take the ignition switch so the wiring diagram is correct on all GPs '97-03. Key release can only occur in LOCK which we all believe is the OFF position.

In a nutshell you will only have 12 volts at the BTSI fuse when the ignition switch is moved forward to OFF, RUN and START.

In the LOCK/Key Release position zero volts at the BTSI fuse.

So, judging by the schematic....

There are two ways the key will be released
-gearshift in park/neurtal
-Brakes applied

Or will the key only release if both of these conditions met?

Anoyone know exactly where the "automatic transmission shift lock actuator is located"? It says "center of console assembly". Thats pretty vague. I think the first step of my diagnosis should be to check out all the inputs to this actuator.

How do I remove the center console and gain access to this actuator?

So, judging by the schematic....

There are two ways the key will be released
-gearshift in park/neurtal
-Brakes applied


PARK only not NEUTRAL. Are you sure you have a real BTSI problem?

To clarify the key should release once in PARK and no other gear positions. You don't have to apply the brakes once in PARK to get to the ignition switch LOCK position or get the key out but you step on the brake to get the shifter out of PARK to the other gears.

Thanks Bob, then that schematic makes no sense. Or am I reading it wrong?

Whats the most common problem when dealing with an issue like this? BTSI or park lock solonoid?

so will someone be plane and tell us how to always get the key out of the tumbler, please

so r u saying that there is a way to turn off or pull a fuse so we can just turn the key off and get it out anyway, anytime we want to?

so will someone be plane and tell us how to always get the key out of the tumbler, please


Use the manual key release under the steering column if it is consistantly sticking...or get a new lock/tumbler assy before it gets worse

BNaylor: I was under the understanding that the off postion was the lock postion...makes sense now. Thanks for that

tblake: looks like from the scematic the neutral/park switch ties into the starting system letting you start the car in park or neutral...but has nothing to do with taking the key out of the ignition in neutral...Im with you for bypassing this whole system. Its getting old...at least to can still start your car and drive it. Ive been out for a week now...I miss it. Keep an eye on it tho if it starts to get worse might want to look at getting a new lock cylinder?

so r u saying that there is a way to turn off or pull a fuse so we can just turn the key off and get it out anyway, anytime we want to?

Where there's a will, there's a way....

Probably not as simple as pulling a fuse, but maybe by removing the removing the park lock actuator.

Btw to everyone, when I arrived at work this afternoon, my key was stuck, so I turned it forward, then something clicked and then I was able to turn it all the way back and remove it.

I had a spare set with me, so I decided to use it on the way home. So far its been driven for a few different trips with the spair set (almost 100% unused) and the key hasn't gotten stuck yet.

Got a question....

If I were to replace the key cylinder, how does that work with the existing keys/door locks. I dont want to have to carry two different keys nor do I want to re-do all my locks. Is it possible to have a replacement ignition cylinder keyed to my current keys?

How does this affect the Vats/PK3 system? Just Wondering.....

Anyone know?

I believe if you change the lock cylinder your keys will have to be cut for that cylinder...and hate to say it but you will have to carry a key for the doors and one for the ignition...BUT if your new spare key is working then you can go to the dealership and have another keyed there. They will look at your VIN to get it keyed to your ignition.

Thats what I thought. Thank you. I'm going to drive with my 2nd set for a week and see what happens.

My 1st set is 8 years old and has been use ever since, maybe he teeth are just getting wore down.

Thanks Red_Tipps!

I believe if you change the lock cylinder your keys will have to be cut for that cylinder...and hate to say it but you will have to carry a key for the doors and one for the ignition.

IMO which is really no biggy. If you have or had a GM car with Passkey 2 you have two keys anyways. One for the ignition and one for the doors and trunk versus the one for Passkey 3 systems.

On Passkey 3 and crappy Passlock systems the transponder is located in the key. Whereas Passkey 2 had the resistor pellet which was a lot easier to DIY relearn and program.

Well the car went off on the tow truck this morning... Destination: Pontiac Dealer. Hopefully I should know something by the end of this week about my ignition.

Ill keep ya all posted

tblake: find out anything new with your ignition issue or is the spare key still working?

tblake: find out anything new with your ignition issue or is the spare key still working?

Yeah, unfortunatly my spair key got stuck today also. Same way. To get it to release I turned the ignitio back on and pushed the gear shift forward, then I heard a "click" and was able to turn it off and take it out.

Any ideas what my problem is guys? Do I have to take apart the center console? How do I do that?

Guys Another one... Saw Red Tipps recent post, but my problem is a little different....

Pulled into my driveway today, and when I went to turn the car off, the key turned back, but not all the way and wouldnt come out.

I tried in neutral, park, turning the wheel, tilting the wheel... Nothing.

I did however figure out that if I repeatidly turn the ignition on/off/on/off/on over and over again, the key will finally turn all the way back and release.

I dont have time to mess with it today, and probably wont untill about friday for that matter.

I have attached a copy of the Shift Interlock Circuit as my problem seems electrical. I was hoping maybe someone who is good at reading schematics and has dealt with this problem before can lead me in the right direction.

Thanks Guys!

http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2850/shiftinterlockcircuitjb4.jpg

Full Sized Image Can be downloaded here (http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/4346/shiftinterlockcircuityf1.jpg) for anyone who needs this info in the future.

Hello,

I may be able to help, I had the identical problem that you have. I was not
able to remove the key from the ignition with the shifter in park. The problem
most likely is a wire that has pulled loose from the BTSI solenoid connector.
The wiring harness which runs below the the shifter was not originally long
enough and when moving the shifter from park to drive etc puts a strain on
the wires which connect to the BTSI solenoid. The condition you describe
is most likely a wire that has been pulled out of the connector for the BTSI
solenoid and causing your intermittent condition of not being able to remove
the key from the ignition. Several of my friends had the same problem you
are experiencing.

Hope This Helps

Steve

Sounds like you may need to adjust your shifting linkage. take your center console out so you can get at it and see what it is doing in there. You should see the plunger retract on the solenoid when you hit park. I believe that is the "click" you hear. Tear out the console and take a look in there man.

Tear out the console and take a look in there man.

Yeah I agree. Before going too far on an actual fault one of the issues since the cup holders are there is a possible prior spilling of coffee or soda so it just needs a good cleaning out and lube with silicone spray lube.

Sounds like you may need to adjust your shifting linkage. take your center console out so you can get at it and see what it is doing in there. You should see the plunger retract on the solenoid when you hit park. I believe that is the "click" you hear. Tear out the console and take a look in there man.

Sir,

There is no adjustment for the BTSI solenoid. The only adjustment
for the shifter cable is for the park/neutral switch which is located
on the transmission. The adjusment for the park/neutral switch is
correct if the car can only be started in park or neutral. Since tblake
did not mention he had a problem with this I assume that it is ok.
If you remove the top piece of the console which will also remove the
cup holders as this is all one piece you will see what I am talking about.
The BTSI solenoid is actaully attached to the shifter which moves every
time you move the console shifter to change from park to drive... etc.
Very poor design, as this puts stress on the wires which hook up to the
BTSI solenoid. This constant strain on the connecter at the BTSI will
eventually pull a wire out of the connector leading to intemittent issues
of not being able to remove the key when in park. I have had to repair
this problem not once but twice now on my car. My friend had the same
problem where a wire backed out of the connector. Two possible solutions,
get a new wire harness for approx. 50-60 dollars or do like I did and remove
the harness and splice some wire in place of where the wire broke off. The
top piece of the console only takes about 10 minutes to remove the first
time you do it. You start just aft of the cupholders and just to the side of
where the the armrest latches into the console., There will be a small square
hole which is your reference point. Using a flat bladed screwdriver about a
inch to either side of the square hole gently pry up. The console cover is
then slowly removed from aft to fwd. The shifter needs to be in neutral to
remove the cover. There is about 4 clips which hold the assy. in place.

Good Luck,

Steve

There is no adjustment for the BTSI solenoid. The only adjustment
for the shifter cable is for the park/neutral switch which is located
on the transmission.

-Understood, and never stated to adjust the solenoid...nor can you. There is however an adjustment for the shifter correct? On the back side of the shifter you have a peice of spring steel bolted to the shifter to give you all your detents for P R N...ect. If that is out of adjustment(hence him having to jiggle the shifter to get it into "park") then the solenoid may not be closing. The transmission is in park but to the solenoid it is still out of the park position. It could aslo be sticky like BNaylor stated...or a wire loose as stated by yourself...It would be easier to diagnose once he gets the cover off to see whats going on in there.

Hey guys, Thanks for all the help. I am going to make time on thursday to open it up take a look.

I'll let you know what I find out. I just hope I dont adjust something the wrong way and mess it all up.

Again Thanks!

It would be easier to diagnose once he gets the cover off to see whats going on in there.

I Agree, let him get in there and see what is going on.
LOL tblake !!!

Steve

Hey guys, Thanks for all the help. I am going to make time on thursday to open it up take a look.

I'll let you know what I find out. I just hope I dont adjust something the wrong way and mess it all up.

Again Thanks!

Mine is doing the same thing, so when you figure yours out, come and fix mine.

Mine is doing the same thing, so when you figure yours out, come and fix mine.

Sure! I will

I found that if I dont hear the "click" in the steering column when I put my car in park, if I keep pushing in the button on the shifter and releasing it before I turn the car off. About the 3rd or fourth time, it will "click" and then my key will come out.

Still havn't had a chance to rip into it and see whats going on. Sounds more and more like a dirt issue.

Can I lubricate it with anything? wd40?

Sure! I will

I found that if I dont hear the "click" in the steering column when I put my car in park, if I keep pushing in the button on the shifter and releasing it before I turn the car off. About the 3rd or fourth time, it will "click" and then my key will come out.

Still havn't had a chance to rip into it and see whats going on. Sounds more and more like a dirt issue.

Can I lubricate it with anything? wd40?

If you use lubricate, use a dry type, usually graphite.
I'm wondering if mine if electrical or a worn out cylinder. I can usually crank back up and move a couple of feet and keep brake applied, shift into park, and remove key slowly. If I try to do it too fast, it will usually stick. Mine has seen a lot of cycles.

If you use lubricate, use a dry type, usually graphite.
I'm wondering if mine if electrical or a worn out cylinder. I can usually crank back up and move a couple of feet and keep brake applied, shift into park, and remove key slowly. If I try to do it too fast, it will usually stick. Mine has seen a lot of cycles.

Hey Guys,

I had the identical problem that you all
are experiencing. If I would move the shifter
back and forth eventually the key would come
out. By moving the shifter back and forth when
the key would get stuck the wire would once
again make contact with the BTSI solenoid
allowing for key removal. Try the lubricant
solution first as has been suggested before.
Then try more drastic measures,

LOL, Steve

What about a silicone lubricant.

What about a silicone lubricant.

I wouldn't use it as it attracts dirt.

Tim...idk if anyone posted this, i was too lazy to read all the replies :tongue:

anyways, do you have an ungodly key chain...like heavy? i know that you have some automotive background, and your pretty hefty with cars but some people make the mistake of having a heavy keychain which in turn ruins the tumblers inside the ignition. :2cents:

Tim...idk if anyone posted this, i was too lazy to read all the replies :tongue:

anyways, do you have an ungodly key chain...like heavy? i know that you have some automotive background, and your pretty hefty with cars but some people make the mistake of having a heavy keychain which in turn ruins the tumblers inside the ignition. :2cents:

I had the exact problem with a 2003 GT. I bet my right arm it's a loose wire in the shifter. Someone already stated to take out the wiring harness and you will probably see the broken or loose wire at once. Strip it down some and push back into the plug on the end of the harness. You may need another short piece of wire to fill up the hole in the harness so that the connecting wire stays in place. If you don't want to mess with it, and defeat the system, you can always wad up a piece of tin foil and stick it under the plunger in the steer column and it will always allow the key to be removed.

-Understood, and never stated to adjust the solenoid...nor can you. There is however an adjustment for the shifter correct? On the back side of the shifter you have a peice of spring steel bolted to the shifter to give you all your detents for P R N...ect. If that is out of adjustment(hence him having to jiggle the shifter to get it into "park") then the solenoid may not be closing. The transmission is in park but to the solenoid it is still out of the park position. It could aslo be sticky like BNaylor stated...or a wire loose as stated by yourself...It would be easier to diagnose once he gets the cover off to see whats going on in there.
Red...I went through the key not coming out issue several months ago and got a loose wire in the harness fixed. Problem I now have is there are times it won't start in Park...have to go to Neutral. How do you adjust the spring at the shifter that you were talking about. Or do you think it's the wiring harness and I should just order one? Mine is a 2003 GT with 28,000 miles. Thanks for your help.

Problem I now have is there are times it won't start in Park...have to go to Neutral. How do you adjust the spring at the shifter that you were talking about. Or do you think it's the wiring harness and I should just order one?

Why would you want to adjust the spring at the shifter if the rest of the BTSI and key release system is working as I think you claim? And what wiring harness are you referring to? Does the shifter properly indicate you are in PARK to include the PRND321 indicator at the IP and is the tranny physically in PARK?

You may just have an issue with the Transmission Range Switch aka neutral/park safety switch or possibly the cable to it from the shifter. IMO the circuits to look at would be the ignition and starter for this issue. PARK and NEUTRAL share the same output wiring from the output of the transmission range switch to the crank relay and starter solenoid "S" input.

Why would you want to adjust the spring at the shifter if the rest of the BTSI and key release system is working as I think you claim? And what wiring harness are you referring to? Does the shifter properly indicate you are in PARK to include the PRND321 indicator at the IP and is the tranny physically in PARK?

You may just have an issue with the Transmission Range Switch aka neutral/park safety switch or possibly the cable to it from the shifter. IMO the circuits to look at would be the ignition and starter for this issue. PARK and NEUTRAL share the same output wiring from the output of the transmission range switch to the crank relay and starter solenoid "S" input.

Thanks for the reply BN. Key release is working and I've pulled the wire harness that connects to the BTSI. That checks out too, including the connection I fixed a few months ago. Shifter shows the car in Park when it physically is, but thought there may be some play in the shifter that was preventing it from starting in Park. I'll check the cable to the shifter, and I see where the neutral/park safety switch is on top of the trans. That looks to be a tight fit to get back there and will probably leave to the Pontiac tech
if the cable looks ok.

Sorry guys its been a bit since Ive been able to get on here...turns out it was my lock cylinder on my ignition. Would have loved to fix it myself but since it was totally locked there was no way that I could see to do it. O well it is fixed and running well. I only have my key fob on my ignition key now and leave all other keys in my wallet. Not going to risk it again.

Thanks for all the help guys...I hope you others get it figured out. I came to realize after doing research on how to fix mine GM ignitions suck:banghead: haha

Sorry guys its been a bit since Ive been able to get on here...turns out it was my lock cylinder on my ignition. Would have loved to fix it myself but since it was totally locked there was no way that I could see to do it. O well it is fixed and running well. I only have my key fob on my ignition key now and leave all other keys in my wallet. Not going to risk it again.

Thanks for all the help guys...I hope you others get it figured out. I came to realize after doing research on how to fix mine GM ignitions suck:banghead: haha

Thanks for the feedback.

Don't forget to annotate your original post which should help others amidst all the confusion on BTSI and Key Relaese. Thanks.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=906391

Out of curiosity how many GP owners or any car owner for that matter actually properly lubes all lock cylinders annually with the GM recommended lube?

I have had the same problem for two years and could not figure it out. After reading this thread, I believe my problem
most likely is a wire that has pulled loose from the BTSI solenoid connector. When I have a chance I will look into it, for now here is how I fixed it.

Remove the plastic plug from underneath the steering column. Cut off a golf tee to correct length. Insert tee into hole. Cover with 1x1 inch duct tape.

When the key won't come out, push the homemade button and continue turning. It works so good, I doubt I will fix the original problem. Been working for two years! My friend do laugh!!!!

Hello Guys, yesterday it was way harder to remove my key, and today it took 20 minutes to get it out at work. So when I arrived home after work, I took apart the center console. It was fairly clean, however I did clean everything up with a couple rags. I took a picture, but its sort of hard to tell whats what.

http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/8654/img1199wa7.jpg

I also checked all the wires for proper b+ and grounds at the BTSI plug. All good. None were over streched. At this point, I was feeling pretty confident I did a good job cleaning everything up so I put it all back together. When I tried it out, the key still stuck in the ignition. Problem didnt change.

Ticked off, I decided to remove the bottom cover on of my steering column to see whats going on.

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/8769/img1201it2.jpg

I then removed the electric park lock solonoid and turned the car on. I worked the shifter pack and forth numerous times and observed the action of the solonoid. It was getting stuck pretty much 50% of the time.

http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/9074/img1204vb5.jpg

At this point I unplugged the park lock solonoid and inserted a test light into the connector. When I turned the car on and worked the shifter, the light worked 100% of the time. YES!

For the time being, I completly removed the park lock solonoid, its held in on the bottom by a very small torx bit, and on top by just a snap. To access the top snap, I removed the top piece of my steering column. Be carefull to not break anything, there are also two small torx bits holding this in. You can see them with a flashlight by looking up, one is sort of buried. Be carefull. Here's what Mine looks like without the Electric Lock Solonoid. JUNK!

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/7773/img1205ql0.jpg

I put everything back together minus the park lock solonoid for the time being. When I finished the job, the dealership parts place has closed, so I'll probably order one or install a new one tomorrow depending on if the dealer has one on hand. Here's just another picture of the Park Lock Solonoid.

http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/4920/img1206uj8.jpg

Again, thanks for the help guys! I'll install a new one and report back to let you guys know how everything turns out. In the meantime, I hope my information can help someone else out along the way.

Guys, Just check with the stealership and they want $57.82 for one. Anyone know of a place on the net to order one thats less expensive?

GM part number 26046984. Rockauto doesnt show a listing in their database.

Guys, Just check with the stealership and they want $57.82 for one. Anyone know of a place on the net to order one thats less expensive?

GM part number 26046984. Rockauto doesnt show a listing in their database.

GMPartsDirect.com but their shipping/handling charge will jack the price up. Check with Rich.

GM PART # 26046984 *
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $57.82
OUR PRICE: $34.80

I havea 98 gtp same prob and its a solenoid switch on the bottom of the shifter I just hit the button in the steering column to release the keys so I dont have to change the part.

I havea 98 gtp same prob and its a solenoid switch on the bottom of the shifter I just hit the button in the steering column to release the keys so I dont have to change the part.

Yep, I heard about that switch, but Its my car and I'd rather make it right rather than jurry rigging everything.

Plus right now I just left my park lock solonoid out and am driving with it like that untill I can get a new one.


BTW Bob, thanks for the info and link!

i had the same exact problem w my car. same exact problem!!! its in the shifter nothing electrical. its a clip... hope that helps any . u may know what im talking about if not ill find out exactly which clip and get back at ya

Tblake
Did you get the key problem fixed? I am asking you because after reading all of these posts and the different fixes to the problems, mine is more like yours. My key will not come out, however if I shift the gear shift back and forward from Park to Drive a couple of times, I will here a slight click when I move into Park and then the key will come out. I believe it is the solonoid in my car also. It works about 50% of the time. Where did you find the part and how much?

I was not going to fix this problem, however now my Teenage daughter wants to Drive the car and I want it to work correctly before she gets it. Just the other day, I went into the grocery store and came back to the car. I had left it in Drive and had released the keys with a pencil. Good thing it was on flat ground:nono:
Thanks Rusty

No, I havn't replaced mine yet, I probably should. I just left mine out. Now I know it wont get stuck, I just cant recommend anyone else do this due to safety reasons.

Problem not resolved. Put in a whole new shifter and key will still no go into final position for release

I give up

Check out that park solonoid in the steering column. Its a white thing, on the right side, held in by one small torx bolt.

I removed mine, plugged it in, and observed the action as I pressed and released the button on the shifter numerous time. It worked 50% of the time, so I plugged in a test light into the solonoids plug and pressed and released the shifter button again numerous times. The test light flashed 100% as it should while I wokred the shifter button. My problem was the lock solonoid itself. GM part number 26046984.

Mine is still out sitting in my tool box. I'm still not sure if I really want to replace it or not. I know I should for safety reasons.

BTW, its probably best to start your own thread beings as this one is 6months old.