Ignition locked...HELP PLEASE

Hey all...another notorious ignition issue happened on my GTP. Went to park it and the ignition turned off but couldnt pull the key out. I turned the wheels full left and it popped the key out. Later that night I go and try to start the car and the ignition is locked in place. It wont go forward or back. The key will go in and out just fine, I just cant turn my ignition with the key in. Ive tried everything except for inspece the park lock solenoid in the center console. The ignition has NEVER stuck on me before,and never showed any symptoms... this is the first time this has ever happened on this car. I dont get it and Im stumped as to what to do to fix it. And I dont want to take it to a dealer and pay upward of 500 bucks to get it fixed. Not to mention I cant even start the car right now to get there. Im mechanically inclined if i just know where to look...or what to replace. Car ignitions arent at all like aircraft ignitions:mad:

So far ive tried jiggling the steering wheel while turning the ign.
-Play with the shifer while trying to turn the ign
-Played with the manual key release while trying to turn ign.
-manually move the shifter to neutral and try to turn the ign.
-Press the brake while turning ign.
-Checked fuses
-put some WD40 in the ignition to free up any stuck tumblers
-Cursed and hit the steering wheel out of anger:banghead:

If anyone has any insight i would sure appreciate it, this is my only car that I use as my DD, I have a motorcycle but the weather is suppost to be storming untill at least wednesday so the sooner the better. Sorry for the bitterness but just a little irritated at my car right now.

Thanks for ANY help...Im desperate at this point

There is a BTSI solenoid located on the underside of the steering column. This solenoid prevents the igniton from going to the "LOCK" position while the vehicle is not in park. This prevents the steering wheel from locking while the vehicle is in motion. There is a similar solenoid that, when not energized, prevents the shifter from being moved Out of "Park". This solenoid is energized when you depress your brake, and pulls the same mechanical lock away from the ignition, thus allowing you to turn the car on only when you are pressing the brake. If your shifter is messed up, or if your linkage is screwy, or if the BTSI solenoid does not register your vehicle as being in park, then you will not be able to turn your key to the "LOCK" position and remove it from the lock cylinder. Also, there is a wire running from your shifter to the BTSI solenoid that completes a circuit when the shifter is in the "PARK" position. If this wire is broken or otherwise failed, the solenoid will not energize. Usually, the solenoid itself will need to be replaced.

Right now the ignition is in the locked position...but I cant move it out of it. And my key will go in and out of it just fine without any hick ups. I took a look at the BTSI solenoid in the shifter assy. The plunger moves when going from park, to park, ect...but how can I know if it is getting power because I cannot move my ignition to the on, or accy positions. ITs locked right where it is at. It doesnt look like there is any kind of adjustment on the shifter. I loosened the bolt at the rear that gives you your detents for R N D 1 2 3 ect. Nothing worked. I tried to check voltage at the IGN MAIN 1 fuse but realized Im not going to get any voltage since my ignition is in the off position and wont move...same with my BTSI fuse in the passanger fuse box. Should I be getting any voltage to them with the ign off because I was not.

I couldnt get the connector off the solenoid in the shifter assy. but the wires and plug looked in good shape. Can you remove that solenoid without getting a whole new shifter assy. looks like its rivited in. The plunger on the solenoid moved freely. I need to get the ignition to move before i can troubleshoot anything more because I cant tell if im getting any power to any solenoids or fuses. All the fuses looked good and had continuity through the fuse.

Is it just a bad ignition switch...and if it is doesnt the ignition has to be moved forward to replace it...Im about to give up on this car and just take it in and bite the bullet for labor costs.

If I just knew what to replace I feel i can do it myself but I dont want to do the shotgun process and just replace the ign, lock cyclinder, and BTSI solenoid...

So in order to change out the ignition switch, or lock cylinder the lock cylinder has to be removed from the ignition because the passkey is in the way. In order to do that I have to move the ignition to the "ON" position to stick a pin down the hole in the column and slide it out...problem is I CANT MOVE MY IGNITION. How and the frick are you suppost to change anything out when you cant even move the ignition.(great design) Im so fed up with this car its rediculous.

Ideas anyone?...Im taking anything at this point

When inserting the key with driver's door open do you get the warning chime?

I don't think GM's intention was to make it maintenance friendly or easy for thieves to circumvent the ignition system so I would not blame the design.

You may have to bite the bullet and have it towed to a GM dealership. They have the procedure to replace the key lock cylinder and/or ignition switch when it is non-functional. i.e. key will insert but will not turn to any of the positions.

Yes the chime will go off when the door is open. Im about to that point to just give it to the dealership. and pray its under $500 Do you think it is ok that it is all opened up already or do i need to put everything back together? Im hoping I can leave everything off since they are going to tear it all apart anyway.

I can understand why they designed the ignition this way, I was just aggrevated at the moment and needed to blame something:crying:

No problems with venting. Do you have any warranty left on it including any relevant extended? If not I would not worry about it and leave it like it is. Just make sure they get all the parts like the plastic covers and hardware such as the screws, etc. that were removed. I don't believe it will cost that much since the problem is obvious, most like a bad key cylinder which also means new keys and programming the BCM module with a Tech II scan tool.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Forgot to mention also that when I parked it the first time it wouldnt go to the off position. and the key was stuck. I wiggled the key while trying to turn it and the key came out part way so I believe I need a new lock cylinder with a new key...or just a new cut key. Finally got it out by turning the wheel full left. I dont know. but anyway.

I dont believe there is any warranty left on the car. Since I keep getting mail on buying extended warranties. Only one I know about is a 100k mile corrosion warranty. Im the second owner so not really sure what it all has but I wasnt notified of any warranty on the car. Im about to call the dealer right now. Im hoping they have complimentary towing...I know some do.

Thanks for the help but its time for the "professionals" to get their hands on it.

You most likely caused the lock -up problem by pulling the key out-- when you could have just used the mechanical release hole-- (the little hole in the plastic cover under the ignition switch) procedure is- if key won't come out, that you poke a pencil (or other small object - like another key) in that hole- once you pull the rubber insert out- and this mechanical method pushes the solenoid out of the way and you can turn the key to "lock" and remove the key- if you forcefully removed the key- then you probably buggered the system....

if you forcefully removed the key- then you probably buggered the system

It wasnt forceful by any means. Was just jiggling the key and turning the ignition and it slid out a little bit... so to me that means the tumblers/lock cylinder was already on its way out the door.

Just so we cover all bases before you spend the big bucks. :rolleyes:

You did try your spare key? It is not uncommon to get a key cylinder worn out prematurely. All key cylinders normally require at least annual lube where you use special Superlube for the key cylinder per the owner's manual. Also, having the keyfob on and any other keys doesn't help either.

I have one problem with I believe your original post or maybe the 3rd. Are you sure you get no 12 volts present at one side of the IGN MAIN 1 fuse and the BTSI fuse. Unless the 2003 electrical system was redesigned you should get 12 volts there at all times regardless if the ignition switch is ON. So that part is abnormal. With IGN 1 missing the key will rotate to run or start but not back to off and appear stuck. Maybe yours is stuck in the OFF position as a result. BTSI and key release will cease to function properly with a low battery (below 9 volts) so I hope you checked out the battery too just to be sure.

About all I can think of for now.

BTW - Plus the battery cables positive and negative and the terminals.

Are you sure you get no 12 volts present at one side of the IGN MAIN 1 fuse and the BTSI fuse. Unless the 2003 electrical system was redesigned you should get 12 volts there at all times regardless if the ignition switch is ON

Yes on the spare key, that was the first thing I tried

Whoa whoa...I checked this earlier(both BTSI, and IGN MAIN 1) and there was no voltage...but I thought it was because my ignition was in the "off" position? I did check battery voltage and it was 12.11 with terminals connected...and no corrosion on battery terminals...I'll set up jumper cables on it just to make sure its not caused by low voltage...or a voltage drop throught the wiring. THANK YOU for that comment now hopefully I am getting somewhere here. I will check again tomorrow to verify I didnt have a bad connection on the fuse. Hopefully I get the same outcome...then I have somewhere to look.

How do I get into the fuse box to see if there is a disconnected wire? Havent looked to hard but obviously it has to come apart somehow?

Please stay posted here I only have till this sunday to decide on a go or no-go decision for the dealership...the race it on

The battery voltage is acceptable. Although I am not 100% sure the IGN MAIN 1 12 volts should be there at all times at least confirmed up to 2001 GP FSM wiring diagrams. No aftermarket remote start or alarm system installed?

If IGN MAIN 1 is missing for sure I would run a fused 30 amp jumper wire/cable to one side of the IGN MAIN 1 fuse socket output to other circuit feeds and ignition switch and direct to the battery positive terminal. Then see what it does.

Although working with the engine compartment fuse box is a PITA you can remove the part with relays and fuses that inserts into the box and inspect wiring. There should be 4 plastic lock down fasteners at the sides. Also, you'll have to remove the battery positive feed under the red cap 'cause the wiring harness limits removal of the box.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Here is some interesting information. Just checked my voltage at my fuse and used a different grounding point and I did get 12 volts at my IGN MAIN 1 40A fuse...checked my BTSI fuse in my passanger side fuse box and cannot get a voltage reading. checked other fuses in the box(cig lighter) to verify my contacts were small enough to fit in the fuse holders...and my ground was good enough and I got a 12V signal from the cig lighter fuse. So unless the ign has to be on for the BTSI fuse to be energized I have a broken/grounded wire somewhere?

Now can I just go from the cigerette lighter fuse to the BTSI fuse? Also does it have to be a fused wire or not since I planned on stripping the wire and sliding it in with the fuse. as long as they are both on the 12V side it is still traveling through the path of the fuse correct?

Sounds like IGN MAIN 1 is good and not the cause. I'm not sure but it depends on how GM wired the 2003 model. Best way to tell is looking at the FSM wiring diagrams for '03. Too many wiring changes between GP years especially before 1999. The closest I have is my '01 Regal GS to compare since I have it with me at work. At the BTSI (shift interlock) fuse socket in the passenger side fuse box I get zero volts until I turn ignition on at which time I get 12 volts. Take note of this with the BTSI fuse pulled out. The ignition switch works fine. I can go to any of the positions (run, start, accessory and remove the key in OFF with the BTSI fuse out. Just my opinion but your issue to starting to sound like just a mechanical issue with the key cylinder.

Just my opinion but your issue to starting to sound like just a mechanical issue with the key cylinder.

I agree, Hopefully its just a lock cylinder...it shouldnt be too much to swap out at the dealership...or i could do it myself if I could get the ignition to turn to the on position!:runaround: