2000 LS Check Transmission, E Code

Hello:

I have a 2000 LS V8 w/ 80K. I was driving last night and got a check transmission code with and E. I was about 20 miles from home and while driving back I noticed that the car was not shifting properly and that the RPM's were going up when I hit the gas but the car was not shifting gears upwards. I did not try to apply too much gas and was able to get the car up to around 60 but it didn't seem to want to go any faster. I plan to take it to the dealer this weekend but was curious if anyone could offer some advice prior. What does a 'flash' do? Will the code say if it is a solenoid (sp?) issue? Thanks for any input.

Try searching the forum. This issue has come up before and there are at least a few posts that will offer you some insight. I did a search for keywords "transmission code E" and got a few good hits.

The term flash in the context I think you are referring relates to the process of installing new code (software) into the flash memory of the computer module.

If you find a scan tool with the appropriate transmission software to read transmission codes, there will be a code present relating to why the "E" is being displayed on the driver information center. Typically only the professional scan tools will have the appropriate transmission software. I'm not aware of any consumer-grade tools that offer this capability.

-Rod

When you said the trans did not want to upshift after the E code come up ,what gears does it not want to shift into. One problem I have run into with the 5r55n trans is a spring in the valve body breaking. This is the 4-3 pre-stroke intermediate band control valve spring. When this happens the trans will shift 1,2,3,4,5 The E code will come up and it will down shift to 3rd and will not up shift to 4th and 5th. A scan will show a transmission control solenoid failure. A repair shop will replace the body control solenoid assembly and the valvebody to fix the problem. When it was just an eighteen dollar spring that broke in the valvebody that caused it to fail. The dealer does not sell the spring separate, you will have to get it from a trans repair shop. Hopes this helps if your symptoms are the same. Wayne

That is wonderful information, thank you for sharing!

-Rod

Ambient Air Intake -> MAF -> IAT -> Data to PCM
Accelator pedal sensor -> Throttle position sensor -> Throttle body control -> Data to PCM
VSS -> PCM Data telling Transmission when to shift!

Clean electronic Throttle plate with WD40 + Oil fogging spray every 10K , and
exercise by hand.

Clean MAF + IAT sensors with CRC MAF sensor too.

The wrong data to Transmission can cause erratic shifting!

It's like running the 1/4 mile yourself with your fingers up your nose.

Garbage in = Garbage out


MCGIVER

I have not yet taken the car in to the mechanic to pull the codes since I wanted to figure out the exact symptoms first. The issue is that the car is not shifting gears at around 40MPH or so. I know that the car has a 5 speed auto, any idea where the gear shifts usually take place. Can't tell if it is getting stuck in 2nd or 3rd. RPM's are going up to around 3500 at 45MPH when they used to shift and come back down around then. If I hit the gas when I'm going 40 the car is barely responsive except for a spike in the RPM's but the E code is not coming back. Any input????

Clean electronic Throttle plate with WD40 + Oil fogging spray every 10K , and
exercise by hand.

I'm not sure I'd use WD-40 in the throttle body. It seems like there would be enough chemicals in that to wreak havoc on the oxygen sensors and possibly coat the catalytic converters. If the industry used to experience issues from RTV gasket maker on intake manifold gasket surfaces, I can only imagine what WD-40 would do.

STP branded Throttle Body Cleaner works great, it cuts through the carbon quickly and evaporates fast. I always have a couple of cans of that in the garage.

-Rod

I have not yet taken the car in to the mechanic to pull the codes since I wanted to figure out the exact symptoms first. The issue is that the car is not shifting gears at around 40MPH or so. I know that the car has a 5 speed auto, any idea where the gear shifts usually take place. Can't tell if it is getting stuck in 2nd or 3rd. RPM's are going up to around 3500 at 45MPH when they used to shift and come back down around then. If I hit the gas when I'm going 40 the car is barely responsive except for a spike in the RPM's but the E code is not coming back. Any input????

Does your V8 have the manual shift mode? If so, why not try to match the revs using the manual shifting to see which gear isn't working right for you.

The service manual probably has the typical shift points, but I don't have time to look for them tonight....

-Rod

So I went to the dealer and they ran a diagnostic test and the codes were P0734 and PO735. They said that they performed a pinpoint test and shift solenoid function test and that both passed. The next sentence on the report said, "perform sympton check and perfrom line pressure test and at 87 PSI spec is 110 to 150 and is low transmission seems to have an internal failure and will need to come out for further diag."

The dealership, Sentry auto in Dorchester, then told me they could not perform further diag there and that they would have to ship it out but they did not tell me this up front and continued to charge me a $170 fee for not much of a diag. Can anyone help with the codes or what might be wrong?? Appreciate it.

According to the factory service manual, P0734 means "Shift Solenoid A (SSA), SSB, SSC, or internal parts fault. 4th Gear error. Incorrect gear selection depending on failure or mode and manual lever position. Shift errors may also be due to other internal transmission concerns (stuck valves, damaged friction material). Engine RPM could be higher or lower than expected.

P0735 means "SSA, SSB, SSC, SSD, or internal parts" fault. The symptoms could be the same as for P0734.

-Rod

When you said the trans did not want to upshift after the E code come up ,what gears does it not want to shift into. One problem I have run into with the 5r55n trans is a spring in the valve body breaking. This is the 4-3 pre-stroke intermediate band control valve spring. When this happens the trans will shift 1,2,3,4,5 The E code will come up and it will down shift to 3rd and will not up shift to 4th and 5th. A scan will show a transmission control solenoid failure. A repair shop will replace the body control solenoid assembly and the valvebody to fix the problem. When it was just an eighteen dollar spring that broke in the valvebody that caused it to fail. The dealer does not sell the spring separate, you will have to get it from a trans repair shop. Hopes this helps if your symptoms are the same. Wayne


I just verified that this is precisely what happened to my wife's 2000 LS6. all of the sudden, no shift into 4th or 5th and E code on the shift indicator. Didn't even bother to scan it becuase per your suggestion and a little more research pretty well confirmed it. I dropped the pan and Valve Body today and found the broken 4-3 stroke valve spring sure enough.

Here is a link for others to see what it looks like although, I am sure you will agree this is not a job for the weak and weary. The valve body assy has some intricate parts than can fall out get damaged, etc :D

http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3812&pl=3

Now, I am trying to decide what I should replace while I am in there. Thinking of replacing all/most of the valve body springs, but am looking for suggestions. Based on your screen name, I take it you rebuild autos and would welcome some advice and a good place to buy the parts from since it appears that you can not order direct from sonnax.

Thanks,
Shawn

Figured I would post an update. A few weeks ago, I dropped the pan and valve body and took it apart as mentioned. Sure enough the 4-3 spring was broken. I decided to carefully take the whole valve body apart and inspect. I also wanted to change all/most of the springs while I was in there. Turn out the TCC back pressure relief spring caused abnormal wear in the inside of it's valve. It nearly worn through and the valve wall was super thin. I though about making a new on out of some T6 AL rod on the lathe, but decided to try and find a new one. Turns out, you can not get it from the dealer and no one currently makes it A/M. I found a good low mileage valve body (yea, just for that one little valve). The valve had a slight bit of wear in this one too, but only minor in comparison. I changed all of the springs that are available through sonnax and also ordered a shift kit in hopes that there would be some pieces included. There were some updated parts in the shift kit and the one thing that was nice is that the 4-3 pre-stroke spring was replaced with a double spring. Not sure the shift kit was worth the $50 though. Sonnax's 4-3 is a single spring like the factory.

I also ordered the factory gaskets from the dealer.

Anyway, it's all back together and been back in service for a few weeks. Shifts better than ever and we are :) again.

The sonnax spring are ordered 5 to a bag for each one, so if anyone needs a set or some valve body parts, let me know :laugh:

One last thing, the reason that I did not want to go with a rebuilt valve body, is becuase I know they don't and can;t change the TCC valve since it is not made. I felt it would be better for me to go through it and I am glad I went that route.

Shawn

Interesting information. Thank you for posting the update with details!

Reading through it made me wonder if the funny vibration that I was never able to get fixed on my 2004 V8 LS was due to the valve. It felt like a misfire, but no misfire counts, only counts on the knock sensor. I replaced all 8 plugs and coils to no avail. Then I mounted a bunch of microphones in the area of the crankshaft, bell housing, and tailshaft and connected them to my oscilloscope. The areas of highest amplitude were the microphones on the bell housing.

Previously my dad had suggested it seemed like an out of balance torque converter.

-Rod