HO Alternator

I have a 2004 Pontiac GT1 Grand Prix. Does anyone know of any companys that make 2004 HO alternators? Ive looked everywhere and cannot find one. The stock one cannot re-charge fast enough to power my two 12"s and kenwood 1800 watt monoblock amp.

Welcome to AF!!

I suggest you forget the high output alternator and simply purchase a 2 farad capacitor and place it in the line before the amp. This will allow the amp to work correctly since it will hold plenty of voltage without needing to recharge and you won't need to worry about draining the battery. It will be a lot cheaper too.

Also, not sure if you posted this over in the "car audio" secion of AF, but those guys know their stuff. I dont want to speak for all of us here, but, I for one really know nothing about audio systems except to hook them up. I (we) know more about auto repairs/mods.

GTP DAD is correct, the 2 farad cap is definately the way to go.

another thing you can do is just buy a dry cell. IE Optima battery. this will take alot of stress off the alternator.

I would suggest upgrading the big three. thats the wir from your alternater to the battery, the wire from the negitibe battery terminal ro the chassis ground and the negative terminal to the engine ground. i have a 1200 watt system and I was having that problem too so I switched out those wire will larger gauge 1/0 wire and I have had no problems since. No headlight dim or anything.

Hey I REALLY appreciate all the info! I will give the wireing a shot, if it don't fix it I will try the optima, and the capacitor. My biggest focus is because within the next month I will be adding componets probably and might have to runner a littler amp too. BUT in the mean time I really appreciate it!

Can I purchase Pre-Made wireing for the alternator or do I have to make them?

You might be able to get the cables at the auto parts store. Or check out crutchfield.

Cool I appreciate it!

i wouldnt recommend doing the wire swap on the alternator. never seen it done before, but it sounds like it'll just make the alternator work harder and eventually overheat it...or cause more problems.

idk, lets see what the experts say

i wouldnt recommend doing the wire swap on the alternator. never seen it done before, but it sounds like it'll just make the alternator work harder and eventually overheat it...or cause more problems.

idk, lets see what the experts say

Actually it will put less stress on the alternator if you upgrade the "big three"....

hmm...guess i dont know what you guys are talking about when you say the "big three" haha

hmm...guess i dont know what you guys are talking about when you say the "big three" haha


Specialized knowledge is required when you want a successful juke box on wheels or at least a reliable one. Probably more than what we probably offer as tech advice although there are good points here. I normally don't weigh-in on these type posts because I would probably kill the idiot that drives by my house with his 2000 watt juke box on wheels. :uhoh:.....:lol: See link below for the basics.

Click here (http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1)

However, unless you want to reduce the life of or kill the alternator in addition to adding the caps which equates to 1 farad per 1000 watts as suggested the wiring should be upgraded. A H.O. alternator is recommended but optional. The key is finding one made for your platform. Normally around 200 watts. I believe the stock alternator for the '04 is 125 watts. Some people install the yellow top batteries which helps.

The battery positive and negative cables can be upgraded or should be. Especially the cable going from the battery positive to the alternator. I recall stock is around 8 awg but should be upgraded to around 4 awg. This will reduce or eliminate the headlight dimming or flickering effect you may get and reduce the load on the alternator.

..... I normally don't weigh-in on these type posts because I would probably kill the idiot that drives by my house with his 2000 watt juke box on wheels. :uhoh:.....:lol:

NICE!

Never got into it really myself either. I've put different speakers in and things, but cant justify spending that kind of cash.

I just loved high school seeing them stupid guys buying a car worth 500 bucks and sticking a $2000.00 sound system in it.:loser:

I just laugh a week later when all their stuff gets stolen....

Poetic Justice I suppose

Also listening to the car rattling, it sounds like the car is ready to fall apart. That is the norm around here. I strive for the best sound I can achieve, without sounding like a rattle trap. That drives me crazy to hear crap like that.:banghead:

I know. I will admit it sounds good when done right, but most of the cars I've ridden in only had large subs with an amp. So all that could be heard was bass. It just sounded like @SS

Don't laugh, many many moons ago when I was in high school, I had a Plymouth Grad Fury. I use to ride around with my home stereo speakers in the back seat. Used the seat belts to secure the speakers. The car had the sweetest sound, I have never come close to duplicating the sound.:grinyes:

i was into the "jukebox on wheels" back in the highschool days. not that i wouldnt still like to have a little "bump" to my music...i just dont see the point in it when gas is $4.00 a gallon...i really dont need the extra weight :tongue:

:lol:

Or the premature hearing loss from the excessively high decibels and tinnitus (ringing in the ears).

When TV had tubes I could here the squeal from horizontal output tube. Also could point out in Penny's where the ultrasonic motion alarm detectors were located through out the store. I have always had the high pitch squeal(tinnitus) in my ears. As far back as I can remember.

sometimes I think I hear what you mean, just havn't attributed it to anything... yet, I'll have to keep my eyes open.

sometimes I think I hear what you mean, just havn't attributed it to anything... yet, I'll have to keep my eyes open.

Best to get an audiogram yearly. For example the military recruiters are having a rough time finding young people without a hearing loss which is being attributed to these high power stereo systems found in cars nowadays and maybe attending too many rock concerts. If you ever get ringing in your ears and it doesn't go away you will know it. It will drive you up a wall until you accept the fact that these is no cure. That is why I try to mention the possibility in these type posts.

sometimes I think I hear what you mean, just havn't attributed it to anything... yet, I'll have to keep my eyes open.

Sometimes I can't even hear myself think...

BNaylor is absolutely right. Preserve your hearing, I have yearly hearing tests. You are placed in a sound proof booth, and have headphones on. They run though the whole audio spectrum that humans can hear. I still can hear above 20Khz. But not as high as I use to. It is what happens when you get older.

You people are WRONG :banghead: Dont give advice if you dont know what your talkin about. If you go get a cap, your going to spend at least $200 for something worth anything, and nothing is going to change. You could get 6 batteries and if you dont have anything to charge them up with, nothing is going to change. Standard alternators are around 120 amps, and they put out even lower when your car is idling. Most standard alternators put out total poper around 4500 rpm. They are made to power your car, not an extra 1500 watts!!! Your crazy!! At this site you can get good alternators usually puttin out 220 amps and have overdrive pulleys so you get 220 amps at 1200 rpmshttp://www.powerbastards.com

You people are WRONG :banghead: Dont give advice if you dont know what your talkin about. If you go get a cap, your going to spend at least $200 for something worth anything, and nothing is going to change. You could get 6 batteries and if you dont have anything to charge them up with, nothing is going to change. Standard alternators are around 120 amps, and they put out even lower when your car is idling. Most standard alternators put out total poper around 4500 rpm. They are made to power your car, not an extra 1500 watts!!! Your crazy!! At this site you can get good alternators usually puttin out 220 amps and have overdrive pulleys so you get 220 amps at 1200 rpmshttp://www.powerbastards.com

:rolleyes:

Welcome to AF.

Your advice at this forum is welcome, however, please use proper forum etiquette and no flaming other members. :nono: After reading your post just what advice or new revelation that would be helpful did you give other than pushing some link to a site that sells alternators? :screwy:

In a thread from over a year ago non the less.

:rolleyes:

Welcome to AF.

Your advice at this forum is welcome, however, please use proper forum etiquette and no flaming other members. :nono: After reading your post just what advice or new revelation that would be helpful did you give other than pushing some link to a site that sells alternators? :screwy:
Welcome to AF :jerking: ha ha!!!
I didn't "flame" any specific members considering mostly everybody was wrong. I woulda been mad at people like you if I was the guy who started this thread. He said his stock alternator cant power everything, not that he had alot of unused power. Your system will eventually suck the capacitor to about 10 amps and then it wont do anything to help the problem. You were telling him things you say will help thats just going to and probably did make him waste money, I TOLD HIM WHAT HE ASKED. I bought the optima, when it loses its initial charge its going to be the same problem. Your alternator cant keep up with your amp and try to power your car at the same time. Same with the capactior, thats just like a battery. You can jump start your car off it if its fully charged. Nobody on here told him to get an alternator first. I have the same car as he does! I know his 125 amp alternator is not going to do it. I have a 1500.1 Kicker amp on 2 15" L7 solo-barics and a 500 watt amp for my 6x9's. I was suggesting the site because they have great alternators. HE ASKED FOR A COMPANY THAT MAKES HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATORS, THATS WHAT THEY DO. You were telling him to go out and buy a yellow top optima and like I said, its not gonna help. Great advice!
Ya its over a year ago, but unless he found an alternator, he's got the same problem

Welcome to AF :jerking: ha ha!!!
I didn't "flame" any specific members considering mostly everybody was wrong. I woulda been mad at people like you if I was the guy who started this thread. He said his stock alternator cant power everything, not that he had alot of unused power. Your system will eventually suck the capacitor to about 10 amps and then it wont do anything to help the problem. You were telling him things you say will help thats just going to and probably did make him waste money, I TOLD HIM WHAT HE ASKED. I bought the optima, when it loses its initial charge its going to be the same problem. Your alternator cant keep up with your amp and try to power your car at the same time. Same with the capactior, thats just like a battery. You can jump start your car off it if its fully charged. Nobody on here told him to get an alternator first. I have the same car as he does! I know his 125 amp alternator is not going to do it. I have a 1500.1 Kicker amp on 2 15" L7 solo-barics and a 500 watt amp for my 6x9's. I was suggesting the site because they have great alternators. HE ASKED FOR A COMPANY THAT MAKES HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATORS, THATS WHAT THEY DO. You were telling him to go out and buy a yellow top optima and like I said, its not gonna help. Great advice!
Ya its over a year ago, but unless he found an alternator, he's got the same problem

:confused:

Contrary to your misplaced comment he was advised to get an H.O. alternator. Whether the OP gets it is up to him. See post #14 of this thread. I would highly recommend reading every post in an old thread before commenting or telling everyone they do not know what they are talking about or failed to give reasonable or adequate advice.

If you are here to make trouble and disrupt the forum then we have a serious issue and I will be happy to deal with it.



However, unless you want to reduce the life of or kill the alternator in addition to adding the caps which equates to 1 farad per 1000 watts as suggested the wiring should be upgraded. A H.O. alternator is recommended but optional. The key is finding one made for your platform. Normally around 200 watts. I believe the stock alternator for the '04 is 125 watts. Some people install the yellow top batteries which helps.

The battery positive and negative cables can be upgraded or should be. Especially the cable going from the battery positive to the alternator. I recall stock is around 8 awg but should be upgraded to around 4 awg. This will reduce or eliminate the headlight dimming or flickering effect you may get and reduce the load on the alternator.


In a thread from over a year ago non the less.

:lol:

He failed to realize that but no problem opening old threads. Not often that we get noobs that make a fool out of themselves but this guy is the exception. :shakehead

No Comment

Bob, I better not open my mouth. I really know nothing about this topic because all of my vehicles have been just fine running the stock alternators (with stock stereo's). I've never needed to upgrade an alternator. The cost for all that stereo equipment could be put to use on more important mods or even better, an insurance payment.

old guys just dont get it=p

well to start, i had the same problem when i got my system (2 400 watt rms Alpine monoblocks, 2 type R 12s, and a 400watt rms alpine 4 channel). my electrical system deffinately couldnt handle it. i did the big 3 and it DID help, but did not nearly solve the problem. i then installed a crappy walmart capacitor as a TEMPORARY fix. it did help a little, but again it did not fix the problem. the reason i emphasize temporary is because to my understanding (a fair amount of research) capacitors are BAD for your alternator, unless it can suffienctly charge ur system already. in other words, if your alt. isnt good enough, a cap is worse. if your alt IS good enough, a capacitor will help increase ur alts life.

i got a alternator made by my friends dad who works for http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/ its a performance parts company in cleveland. he built me a approximately 150-160 amp alternator, powdercoated red alternator for my 97 grand prix. if you are interested i can get you his email or something... idn what it would cost ya tho

old guys just dont get it=p

:sly:

Tim (tblake) is not old but obviously he has good common sense and personal values.

BTW - No age discrimination allowed here. :uhoh:....:lol:

:sly:

Tim (tblake) is not old but obviously he has good common sense and personal values.

BTW - No age discrimination allowed here. :uhoh:....:lol:


C'mon Bob, your making me feel all warm and fuzzy inside! :grinno:

Seriously though, thank you for the nice comments. If only my folks felt the same way as you. Every time I change (or mod) my car. I can just hear my dads thoughts "darn kid just spent more money just to go faster). I guess I should listen to him, but there are a lot worse things I should be spending my money on.

Just threw on my 3.4" pulley I bought from a friend for 20.00 so I'll have the 3.5" for sale if anyone needs it. (press fit ZZP, black in color, used for about a year).

Gee, my Electrical Engineering background tells me that a capacitor will do nothing to help preserve, or destroy the alternator. The capacitor, I would think, is used to stabilize the voltage at the input to the amplifier. Initially, when power is first applied, the capacitor charges. This probably would come from the battery. During amplifier use, like during "Highway to Hell", the sudden changes in input current are supplied by the capacitor. But then immediately, it is recharged through the wires. So the current from capacitor to amp inputs is all over the place, but from alternator to capacitor should be kinda smooth. The question is: Can you roll your electric windows down with the music up and still hear the 20,000 Hz?

^^^^^^Good explanation and well said. In audio terminology just a "stiffening capacitor" or "load leveler". Bass is what takes power and all the capacitor does is act like a buffer between the battery and amplifier in layman's terms.