Code 87 code 96 91 areostar no start

:banghead:
Hey folks,
91 ford aerostar 3.0 liter No Start. The van sat for a couple of years, got started and ran maybe once a month. Went to start and no fuel at the fuel rail. Replaced the fuel pump and screen also inline filter. Now I have fuel at fuel rail. Still will not start. Spray gas in the intake runs for a few then dies. Checked injector pulse and got one. Tried to pull a code and got nothing noticed a wire coming from the negative side of the battery to a round connector was unplugged. Plugged it in got a code 96; fuel pump secondary circuit failure, battery to pcm. Read the entire chapters in chiltons fuel supply and codes. Found no reference at all to secondary circuit. Then upon further inspection I noticed where the harness on the drivers side fender where the OBD1 connector attaches there are I guess relays there. Well one of the relays had a secondary wire with exact same plug shape as the one plugged in so I changed them. No difference of course except Instead of code 96 I pulled a code 87; Primary fuel pump circuit failure. Of course no info about this either :banghead: . Does anyone know what the primary and secondary circuits are and how to test. I also checked the fuel shut-off switch/ inertia switch button is down no problem there.
:screwy: I know what to do run a hose out the window and under the hood into the intake and just spray gas in every few seconds that'll work :runaround: Thanks :rofl:

Since it set for awile my guess would be the injectors are plugged. You have fuel to the injectors and injector pulse from what i understand, but is there fuel comeing out of the injectors. If you turn the motor over for a few seconds and then pull a spark plug out if it's wet and it smells like gas then you atleast have fuel to that cylinder. Or you can take the injectors out and see if they work. Ive done both ways to test the injectors. I'd choose which ever one is easier. Hope this replay helped some.

:screwy:
Thanks for the info, did not even think of that. I checked them after several cranks and seemed pretty dry. Went to parts house got this stuff called Sea Foam injector cleaner. Said for a quick clean and to inline filter. So I am going to drain the fuel line tomorrow and add the stuff right into the line. Then slightly pressurize system let sit for fifteen minutes then try again. The guys at the parts store said Napa sold a kit that plugs into the fuel line and pressurizes the system I guess like a flush type deal $60.00 though. Hope the Sea Foam works. I tried to tap the injectors lightly and run a little gas through the upper intake manifold and keep it running for a few. Thought maybe that would help. It does seem to actually sputter though without the help of ether. Which is better then just cranking. I'll let you know tomorrow how it went.
Any other ideas would appreciated, :popcorn: THANKS again. :grinno:

New problem no gas to fuel rail again. Tried replaceing relay no help. Maybe a bad pump from parts house. Yet it almost has the symptons as before. The gas gauge climbs when cranking. Then the next time it will go up to a certian point then start to fall. Since the sending unit and pump are one unit in the tank I originally thought bad fuel pump. Now I am wondering. Of course put in a power steering pump, in a jeep, 3 times before I got a pump that worked. I am thinking next step is to pull gas tank 3HRS:) leave pump in tank and go directly to 12volt to see if it pumps.

Could it be possible that you have something in your gas. Like chunks of rust or something that is clogging the system. When you replaced the filter and screen did you notice any debree in the fuel? Sometimes metal gas tanks will rust on the inside if the vehicle sits for an extended amount of time without a full tank of gas. Or the gas may of gone bad and gummed up the lines. When you replaced the fuel pump and everything it may of cleaned the lines enough to let gas through and then sucked more crap out of the tank into the system.

You could check for voltage at the inertia fuel shut-off switch, using either a multimeter or a 12V test lamp. You should have 12V at both sides of the switch when the fuel pump circuit is activated, and it would presumably be activated for at least a few seconds when you switch the ignition to the 'On' position eh, as it primes the system (do you hear the pump run briefly when you switch the ignition on?)

I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but the wiring diagram I'm looking at shows the wire feeding into the switch as pink/black, and that comes from the switched contacts of the fuel pump relay, and the wire leading out from the switch, also pink/black, goes to the fuel pump positive terminal. The fuel pump negative terminal then connects to ground.

Plastic gas tank and no chunks in filter when pulled. Two wires coming out of inertia switch. Checked it by tripping which set a code 95 secondary fuel pump circuit failure. I reset the switch checked again and no code for that. Still getting code 96

If I understand correctly, you only got the code 96 after plugging in the unidentified connector. It's possible that that was intended for an optional accessory which your particular model doesn't have, and therefore might have been left intentionally disconnected. I'd try to follow the wire and see where it leads to, and then using the wire colours I'd locate it on the wiring diagram to check if it really should be in-circuit.

I'd also try unplugging that wire to see if that will once again give you fuel at the fuel rail, which you did appear to have, prior to plugging it in.

Even though you've tested the inertia switch, that doesn't guarantee that the fuel pump is running, so if you can't hear the pump from the driver's seat then I'd suggest you get an assistant to switch the ignition on, while you go and listen down at the fuel tank.