Service Engine/ABS Light/Sputter @60mph
95GrandAmSE
03-06-2003, 07:00 AM
My Service Engine Soon Light comes on after the car warms up. Took it to a local mechanic who hooked it up to a scanner (which one I am not sure since my car apparently has neither OBDI or II ... looks like ALDL according to a Haynes Manual).
He indicated that the only stored code indicates a problem within the EGR Valve system. I replaced the valve myself to the tune of $180. Very proud of myself I got in the car and took off. Guess what? At the same distance and time the SES light came back on. FRUSTRATED. What now? Any suggestions? The exhaust tube is open (at least visually) and the path into the intake looks open (visually). Ideas?
Secondly, the ABS light comes on the first time I use the brakes after starting the car and stays on until I restart the car. i.e. its basically always on except during engine start up. He says he troubled shooted it to the ABS Control Module ("needs to be replaced"). At a dealer that part is $800+ dollars. Not going to happen! I went to the web and found them for $250.00 (Rebuilt) and $50 core. I am reluctant to go there since following his advice didn't fix the first problem (EGR).
Finally, the engine runs great until you are 58-60 mph and then it seems to misfire and sputter/falter a bit. The car shakes a bit until you either slow down or speed up. The last time it did this the dealer said it was the DIS ignition coil packs and charged me a fortune to replace them. Being brave and proud I did those myself last night too! Only $60.00 for the three of them though so I didn't feel so incredibly stupid and rotten when that didn't fix the problem either.
This morning I spoke with the dealer...their answer..bring it in Monday and let us diagnose it for you. "But let me tell you it sounds exactly like a Grand Am we had here last week...same year nearly same miles. Turned out to be the intake manifold leaking vacuum. Not pretty...it was a $900 repair bill." To which I replied..."READ MY LIPS...NOT GOING TO HAPPEN. The car is only worth about $3K and I have spent nearly $2k on it in the last four months." Why would it only leak vacuum at 58-60 mph? Does that even make sense? If it leaks..wouldn't it leak the whole time the engine is running?
Any suggestions? I know this is a long post but I wanted to make it as detailed as possible to avoid the back and forths of a long thread.
Please be my hero!
He indicated that the only stored code indicates a problem within the EGR Valve system. I replaced the valve myself to the tune of $180. Very proud of myself I got in the car and took off. Guess what? At the same distance and time the SES light came back on. FRUSTRATED. What now? Any suggestions? The exhaust tube is open (at least visually) and the path into the intake looks open (visually). Ideas?
Secondly, the ABS light comes on the first time I use the brakes after starting the car and stays on until I restart the car. i.e. its basically always on except during engine start up. He says he troubled shooted it to the ABS Control Module ("needs to be replaced"). At a dealer that part is $800+ dollars. Not going to happen! I went to the web and found them for $250.00 (Rebuilt) and $50 core. I am reluctant to go there since following his advice didn't fix the first problem (EGR).
Finally, the engine runs great until you are 58-60 mph and then it seems to misfire and sputter/falter a bit. The car shakes a bit until you either slow down or speed up. The last time it did this the dealer said it was the DIS ignition coil packs and charged me a fortune to replace them. Being brave and proud I did those myself last night too! Only $60.00 for the three of them though so I didn't feel so incredibly stupid and rotten when that didn't fix the problem either.
This morning I spoke with the dealer...their answer..bring it in Monday and let us diagnose it for you. "But let me tell you it sounds exactly like a Grand Am we had here last week...same year nearly same miles. Turned out to be the intake manifold leaking vacuum. Not pretty...it was a $900 repair bill." To which I replied..."READ MY LIPS...NOT GOING TO HAPPEN. The car is only worth about $3K and I have spent nearly $2k on it in the last four months." Why would it only leak vacuum at 58-60 mph? Does that even make sense? If it leaks..wouldn't it leak the whole time the engine is running?
Any suggestions? I know this is a long post but I wanted to make it as detailed as possible to avoid the back and forths of a long thread.
Please be my hero!
pontiacnfs
05-10-2003, 02:29 AM
lets say your going down the road... 55-60 and you go to pass a car, does your engine respond badly under heavy load, if so, when was the last time you changed your spark plugs, or cleaned your fuel system for that matter?
as far as the abs light goes, I have no clue.
and with the check engine light, I used to own a caddy and when my tranny started to go to poo the check engine light came on. no noticeable change in driving until a couple of months later.
as far as the abs light goes, I have no clue.
and with the check engine light, I used to own a caddy and when my tranny started to go to poo the check engine light came on. no noticeable change in driving until a couple of months later.
bowtiebandit
05-11-2003, 01:02 AM
You left out the Engine size. I will take a shot here if it is a 3.1, Take the EGR valve back off, take the intake air tube off..open up the throttle blade and look just about 1 inch down on the right side inside the mouth. There should be a port that connects to the EGR passage. If you cannot blow through this it is clogged. try using a coat hanger or some small wire and unclog the passage.
As far as the ABS I would hate to venture a guess without knowing any codes.
As far as the ABS I would hate to venture a guess without knowing any codes.
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