help need decent air map settings for my mods

i no every cars different but i need some decent air map settings for my 91 talon to start with. anyone out there with 550cc injectors on a 14b at around 17psi on a 1g that can help get me close to a good tune.

i read somewere to start the throttle position at 69/70 to tune the lows, there at -10 across the lows on the air map and the highs are -10 to 4500 rpm then go to -8 from 4500rpm on.still getting a hesitation at 5000rpm 3rd gear on at 17psi.

also, i no im off topic but real quick i have a slight high idle at around 1200rpm so my fpr is set around 42psi instead of 38psi.the question is should i still have the fpr at 38psi even with a higher idle? im a newb to all the dsm electronics and the apexi neo is killing me.

You get a high idle because of extra air getting into the intake somehow. The ECU compensates for the air by itself. You do NOT need to raise the fuel pressure. Raising your fuel pressure really does not do anything to help lean/richen things up anyways. The ECU tries to get a 14.7 AF mixture when in closed loop mode. So the ECU can add or subtract fuel by +-20%. When you up the fuel pressure the ECU lowers your injector pulse causing the same amount of fuel to go in the motor. All you are doing is letting that value get away from 0% correction.

Say when you upped your fuel pressure that 4psi the ECU is taking out 5% fuel to compensate. Now you only have 15% of fuel left for the ECU to take out instead of 20%.

With bigger injectors you will be running rich so I would set all your setting to 0 or maybe -5% and make a run to see where your AF ratio is first. Make sure you tune with a WBo2. Tune your WOT AF first and then start on your part throttle. The ECU will take out fuel as needed at low throttle but that value may be around -15% or so, so you do want to tune the part throttle after to try and keep your short term fuel trim around 0.

so high air map set to -5 and make a few passes? i have no wide band or datalogger so i herd to tune each rpm till the o2s arnt moving no more then plus them till they start moving then add 2 more clicks up.thats how it said to tune with a narrow band,got it off a forum at prostreet.com

Lower your fuel pressure to 37psi(stock 1g). I'm not used to an SAFC but if it has a global fuel setting it should be at -18% to compensate for your injectors. Now that you upped your fuel pressure you would have to change the global to -24% since you are flowing more fuel in the same amount of time.

well set the base to 37 at 0 vac. it hits around 50psi at 15 psi of boost, guess il just have to mess with the air maps till it fills right.

its not running rich no black smoke but at high rpm 6500 to 7000 it blew a light bluish grey or white smoke not very noticable and my dipstick poped out,only air thow it didnt spit any oil so i guess a new pvc is coming tomarrow. thanks for the help.

What elevation are you at. When I use to tune off my narrowband I would tune to .98volts. When I dynoed I was at a perfect 11.5 AF. This was around 200ft above sea level. The higher you are the lower voltage you tune for. I dont know about then voltage leveling out or anything. Sounds like BS and I wouldn't do it.

Since it hasn't been said...BUY A LOGGER! Narrowband tuning is like cleaing a loaded gun, in the dark, with one hand, sitting on an upside down barstool.

;)

im in arizona. well it seems that when i set my maps to -50 for fun the car wants to die and when i push the gas it wont rev up like its adding to much fuel. so should i be plusing the air maps to add more air or less fuel? i dont get it when its at negative or positive whats it doing?i no its telling the MAS or tricking the mass to think its running less or more air right? so i dont get why when i minus the air maps i smell gas or it smells richer. some1 help thanks

Don't go hitting any kind of boost with your high throttle set at -50 or say goodbye to that 6-bolt.

When you start to alter the airflow signal you start to pull timing. Spiderturbo had a good writeup in the tech articles about this.

When you subtract on the afc, you are leaning out the AFR's and when you are adding, you are richening up the AFR's

With 550's you should only be subtracting on the AFC, since you are trying to compensate and trick the ECU into thinking your still running the 450s while running more boost.

i set my afc to plus 10 across the board on both high and low to see how it would run and it ran fast enough to get a ticket lol,nah it was fast the only thing is is that i had major blow by,it blew my dipstick out with a bunch of oil to. could running rich do that? when i had it on the minus it didnt have that much blow by i literly blew half a quart of oil out.

Buy





A




Logger!

Here is a good example (http://www.posracing.net/files/fronto2vswbo2blownmotor.jpg) of when .98 volts does not equal 11.5:1 ;) That log screencap was of a run where I lost the motor.

-15% across the board should be pretty safe but not so rich that you ruin your motor. This assumes you're back to stock base pressure, which is where you want to be. I would recomend running that until you get a logger and/or WBO2.

a

logger

will

come

next!

and about the -15 across the board is that both high and low map? and should i keep the 69/70 on the t.p or should i set it at 30/80 witch most are cars are suposovly tuned to?

The post quality is killing me here...

15% on both high and low. This almost accounts for injector size only and does no tuning at all. With both maps the same, the high low switch over point doesn't matter, but you can set it to a normal value if it makes you feel better. Again, this isn't guaranteed to be correct, so I would still take things easy until you get a logger or WB on it. But if you would trust the car with the stock injectors and no AFC, this will be about the same thing.

sorry bout the post quality here, im a newb. to this and my grammer isnt that great plus im trying to explain things that i no nothing about so bare with me guys please.

now -15 across the board u say will be like running my 450cc injectors again and has no value when it comes to tuning so obviously 15psi should be max right now for those injectors. i forgot to mention i have my lower MAS comb out and the plastic screw out level so should i try like -13 across? will that be safe? i put the MAS mod on my sig. now. highly appreciate the help.

Hacking the MAS changes everything. None of us can help you now, disregard all of my previous posts. You have no choice but to get at the least a logger, and I wouldn't even trust that without a WBO2 to back it up.