How do I fix this problem?????

Orange peel.....Orange peel.....Orange peel

I paint with spray cans, and lately I have had orange peel on my models.

I live in southern Louisiana and its hot and humid, so is that the reason for the orange peel. I used to never get orange peel, also I never used to use primer.

What is going wrong :banghead:

I believed this topic has been beaten to death...

It all depends on how bad your orange peel is (pics might help). If it's not too bad, you might be able to polish it out.

Hey,

As mentioned the subject has come up here a few times before. The search feature is less predictable than a politician right now so I used a workaround I've found and looked up some topics on it for you.

Here they are:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=899825&highlight=orange+peel
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=783169&highlight=orange+peel
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=761296&highlight=orange+peel
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=727029&highlight=orange+peel

There's also several topics in the Car Modeling FAQ which can aide you in both preventing it and also in how to take care of it after it happens.

Humidity doesn't help any but it's more likely to cause the paint to fog than to directly cause orange peel.

I believed this topic has been beaten to death...

It all depends on how bad your orange peel is (pics might help). If it's not too bad, you might be able to polish it out.



this is after a rub with Tamiya Fine Compound

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/geckoman150/?action=view&current=DSCF0497.jpg

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll47/geckoman150/?action=view&current=DSCF0497.jpg

that has been discussed a million times in every modeling forum...

simple

3200 grid micromesh or similar, sand it matt

polish with tamiya compounds coarse, fine, finish, polish with wax

no more words needed, do it this way and you will have the perfect paintjob ! ! !

here's my current build..scoll down

http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=23988.msg323009#msg323009

no matter how crappy your paint is, do it the above way and it will be perfect, no need to poilish in between, just add enough clear as the last coat and that's it

daniel
-germany-

i think if you want a better answer, you should take a photo of every stage
i.e body - primer - sanding - repeat - paint - sand - paint etc etc.

that way we can all see at what point something should be done.

For all we know, the texture might be because of texture on the primer that should've been sanded.
Or the texture is because you're painting too thick.
Or the texture is because the paint isn't warm/hot enough.

Yeah, I think he is wondering how to prevent or minimize it in the first place, rather than what to do to correct it after the fact. I've seen 360Spider's paint josb and they look so smooth without any polishing. I barely can replicate that, even with all the prep procedures. Almost always, I have shrinkage, which requires sanding and polishing, and most of the time, some orange peel.

it's not that dificult to avoid orange peel and there are several methodes. But all those methodes have 1 thing in common: you need to sand in one stage, and you need to polish. I prefer to sand in the primer stage. Priming is verry cheap compared to the paint.

My methode is:
priming, several thin coats. When dry, I sand it smooth. Don't bother with tamiya primer for the first coats. Automotive primers work as well.
When i think i have a smooth primer, I spray some light grey tamiya primer to detect the last irregulareties. If there are no, i spray a coat of tamiya white primer. If you plan to use a dark colour, you can skip this last step.

colour: this is the least important step of my paiting. Just some verry light coats, just enough to get an even coverage. Spraycan, airbrush, acrylic, enamel, lacquer... it doesn't matter much. I sand those coats flat. If I sand trough the paint, I add some extra coats, but if you're primer is already verry even, this shouldn't take long. I personaly like to use spraycans for this step. They are verry easy to use, dry fast and are verry hard. I don't care if it doesn't gloss, as long it's even. No need for a wet coat, no worries about orange peel. An extra advantage is because you don't spray a wetcoat, those expensive tamiya spraycans easily last two entire carbody's and if you're extra carefull, perhaps 3.

Finaly when the colour is dry, i spray with an airbrush several verry diluted and verry thin ENAMEL clearcoats with a verry low pressure. This type of paint dries verry slow so it has a lot of time to levell. Enamals also don't react with acylic or lacquers and are safe over decals. My favorite is revell clear. 1 BIG disadvantage, they take quite a lot of time to dry.
the only thing I need after the clearing is some tamiya compound (and some patience while drying) and I've got a nice glossy finish.

with this methode, you can't have much orange peel, because you spray verry light coats and you don't have to worry much about rubbing trough you're clearcoat.

...pictures of a finished model please :cool:

daniel
-germany-

thanks for all the tips

I think I can get this right next time.