Immobilizer in 91 GTC Conv
Lee_Baron
05-13-2008, 12:35 AM
Ok this factory immobilizer is driving me crazy. It's a little relay box (says chrysler on it) in the glove compartment that flashes the 4-ways and cuts the fuel when it is unhappy. And It is unhappy a LOT. I guess they figured the COnv was too steal-able. To disarm it you have to unlock the outside lock with the key. But mine must be flaky, (maybe a bad wire somewhere) so I disable it by hot wiring the fuel pump relay - this seems to work as a bandaid solution. BUt when some idiot hits me and I go up in a blowtorch of flames I will be very sad. and Burnt.
I'd like it disabled. Anybody know anything about this stupid clicking box?
I'd like it disabled. Anybody know anything about this stupid clicking box?
madmanmapper
05-14-2008, 09:10 PM
WOW, could it be that you have the mystical factory car alarm? I've never actually seen a Baron with one! I could get you some wiring diagrams for it. If I am not mistaken you could simply remove it, and connect some of the wires from the plug together, to make the car basically factory-alarm-free. I pmed you, email me.
Lee_Baron
05-17-2008, 12:06 AM
I'd like to disable the thing since it does not turn off properly. If you have a wiring diagram for it I would appreciate it greatly. Maybe I can fix it...
It is a factory module, on it are:
- Security Alarm
- the chrysler star
- and a bunch of long numbers
- has a 21 pin connector with most of the wires there (it's complex)
It is located above the glovebox.
It basically flashes the 4-ways and disables the fuel pump. I just hotwire the fuel pump in the fuse panel to get it going, and I've disconnected this module so the 4-ways turn off.
When I bought the car, the owner was apologetic that it was so hard to start, we boosted it and he screwed around with the door locks for a while as it would not go. The alarm did turn off at one point, and it ran, but since the battery was low the alarm then stayed on all the time. I think it is the main reason I got a really nice 91 GTC Convertible/ 2.5? Turbo - (no intercooler) / 5 speed/ Power Leather /original 16" wheels/ 'coke bottle' body kit/ and AC for $400. That and there was snow on the ground, convertibles are never popular when it's cold out. The trunk is also full of amps and subs.
Few things to do:
- back windows don't roll down - I am not looking forward to that job, I may just make them de-tachable, they are barely bigger than your hand.
- needs a new top of course, lots on ebay cheeeep right now.
Here is the Chrysler-Maserati with removable hard top. Very classy looking, even today.
http://www.allpar.com/photos/chrysler/tc-by-maserati/maserati.jpg
It is a factory module, on it are:
- Security Alarm
- the chrysler star
- and a bunch of long numbers
- has a 21 pin connector with most of the wires there (it's complex)
It is located above the glovebox.
It basically flashes the 4-ways and disables the fuel pump. I just hotwire the fuel pump in the fuse panel to get it going, and I've disconnected this module so the 4-ways turn off.
When I bought the car, the owner was apologetic that it was so hard to start, we boosted it and he screwed around with the door locks for a while as it would not go. The alarm did turn off at one point, and it ran, but since the battery was low the alarm then stayed on all the time. I think it is the main reason I got a really nice 91 GTC Convertible/ 2.5? Turbo - (no intercooler) / 5 speed/ Power Leather /original 16" wheels/ 'coke bottle' body kit/ and AC for $400. That and there was snow on the ground, convertibles are never popular when it's cold out. The trunk is also full of amps and subs.
Few things to do:
- back windows don't roll down - I am not looking forward to that job, I may just make them de-tachable, they are barely bigger than your hand.
- needs a new top of course, lots on ebay cheeeep right now.
Here is the Chrysler-Maserati with removable hard top. Very classy looking, even today.
http://www.allpar.com/photos/chrysler/tc-by-maserati/maserati.jpg
madmanmapper
05-28-2008, 01:35 AM
Apologies for not responding sooner.
Ah yes, the Maserati TC, I saw one in the junk yard once, with almost nothing wrong with it, made me sad :( As a side note, the tops from the Maserati are not interchangeable with the LeBaron, as the Maserati is actually shorter and it has one of those crazy "tonneau" tops or whatever they're called.
Hmm, well, the Mitchell program is on my dad's computer, and everyone but me is asleep right now, and I know I will forget to get the wiring diagram later, however, I do have the relevant wiring diagram for a 92 LeBaron printed up already, and in my room. (As you may know, I've been doing a lot of electrical crap to my Baron.) So I'm going to scan it for you. There were really no changes in wiring until 93, so 91 and 92 should be identical.
So you DO have the factory car alarm, WOW. And yes, Chrysler's are wonderfully cheap because people are ignorant. Let's see: $2000 for a cheap Honda, or $400 for a luxury Chrysler with the same gas mileage...hmm... Yet people still pick the Hondas (except for us :P )
This wiring diagram should guide you as to which wires on the alarm module's plug to cross, you know, I'm looking at the diagram, and there's no connection from the alarm module to the fuel pump shutoff relay, or anything similar, only goes to the lights, horns, door switches, locks, and serial bus. I suppose that it could tell the engine computer to activate the shutdown relay. You say you unplugged the alarm, so assuming that your shutdown relay is not broken, something else causes this. If you could un-hotwire the relay, and plug back in the alarm, try to disarm the alarm, and start the car naturally, then while its running, unplug the alarm, and see what happens. I don't know, I'll leave this up to you.
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8801/92lebaronbcmmf6.jpg
This wiring diagram is copyrighted and etc etc etc.
Another thing: the back windows... yes, I've had trouble with one of mine, and now they both work, weakly, they need help going up when the top is up, and the right side one gets stuck if I roll it all the way down and hold the button. The tension on the cable stops the motor from turning. A good whack with a long steel rod with the top down, and it goes right up. Removing the window assemblies is really not that hard, and you can have them both out in 30 minutes. Once you have them out, take apart the motors and clean them, you'll have to "rebuild" the actual motors as well if they are no longer working. The cable part is tricky, but I did it. I think the cable tension problem I'm having is because the grease I used is too thick. There must be some kind of grease for such applications.
Ah yes, the Maserati TC, I saw one in the junk yard once, with almost nothing wrong with it, made me sad :( As a side note, the tops from the Maserati are not interchangeable with the LeBaron, as the Maserati is actually shorter and it has one of those crazy "tonneau" tops or whatever they're called.
Hmm, well, the Mitchell program is on my dad's computer, and everyone but me is asleep right now, and I know I will forget to get the wiring diagram later, however, I do have the relevant wiring diagram for a 92 LeBaron printed up already, and in my room. (As you may know, I've been doing a lot of electrical crap to my Baron.) So I'm going to scan it for you. There were really no changes in wiring until 93, so 91 and 92 should be identical.
So you DO have the factory car alarm, WOW. And yes, Chrysler's are wonderfully cheap because people are ignorant. Let's see: $2000 for a cheap Honda, or $400 for a luxury Chrysler with the same gas mileage...hmm... Yet people still pick the Hondas (except for us :P )
This wiring diagram should guide you as to which wires on the alarm module's plug to cross, you know, I'm looking at the diagram, and there's no connection from the alarm module to the fuel pump shutoff relay, or anything similar, only goes to the lights, horns, door switches, locks, and serial bus. I suppose that it could tell the engine computer to activate the shutdown relay. You say you unplugged the alarm, so assuming that your shutdown relay is not broken, something else causes this. If you could un-hotwire the relay, and plug back in the alarm, try to disarm the alarm, and start the car naturally, then while its running, unplug the alarm, and see what happens. I don't know, I'll leave this up to you.
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8801/92lebaronbcmmf6.jpg
This wiring diagram is copyrighted and etc etc etc.
Another thing: the back windows... yes, I've had trouble with one of mine, and now they both work, weakly, they need help going up when the top is up, and the right side one gets stuck if I roll it all the way down and hold the button. The tension on the cable stops the motor from turning. A good whack with a long steel rod with the top down, and it goes right up. Removing the window assemblies is really not that hard, and you can have them both out in 30 minutes. Once you have them out, take apart the motors and clean them, you'll have to "rebuild" the actual motors as well if they are no longer working. The cable part is tricky, but I did it. I think the cable tension problem I'm having is because the grease I used is too thick. There must be some kind of grease for such applications.
Lee_Baron
05-28-2008, 09:51 PM
Thanks a million Madman - at least I can start on it now. I'll post what I find for future generations. The alarm sort of worked originally, however I think something has happened to it since.
It looks like it is disarmed by a ground contact in either door lock. Hard to believe neither would work (I did try them both).
That serial bus scares me, if it's passing disable commands around on that... I shudder at the thought... In fact, it should actually be sending ENABLE commands, so if the alarm module is unplugged/faulty the car won't go... YIKES...!
All I DO know is that jumping the fuel pump relay makes it GO. Without that it is D E A D . . .
I took out a rear window at the local PicnPull and it comes out surprisingly easy, the whole thing comes up and out. Thanks to your instructions (in a different thread), I knew there were 5 bolts to look for... It will be a little harder to get back in and lined up and aligned (its always easier to take stuff apart, isn't it?)
It looks like it is disarmed by a ground contact in either door lock. Hard to believe neither would work (I did try them both).
That serial bus scares me, if it's passing disable commands around on that... I shudder at the thought... In fact, it should actually be sending ENABLE commands, so if the alarm module is unplugged/faulty the car won't go... YIKES...!
All I DO know is that jumping the fuel pump relay makes it GO. Without that it is D E A D . . .
I took out a rear window at the local PicnPull and it comes out surprisingly easy, the whole thing comes up and out. Thanks to your instructions (in a different thread), I knew there were 5 bolts to look for... It will be a little harder to get back in and lined up and aligned (its always easier to take stuff apart, isn't it?)
Joric LeBaron
05-29-2008, 05:00 PM
Hey Madman... How'd yah respool the cables.. mines drivin me nuts..????
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