Rear end re-seal

I want to replace the Diff. seal and axle seals in my WC car. Can someone please post the part numbers for the axle and diff. seals It would be great to have all the parts before hand. Are there any problem area's I need to keep in mind when I start? Thanks

We could give you parts numbers but they would not necessarily be the same number available to you. Alot also depends on the axle ID in your cars VIN/serial number. You can go on line at Auto Zone, NAPA, O'reilly's and other parts stores an get the parts numbers and prices. There are several companies out there that make seals and probably don't have a common part number between them. Best to check at your locals. Any online parts will be the same parts at each online store contacted.

I don't think you'll find the axle seals at any local auto parts store. The axle seals are not at the ends. The seals are up at the third member. You will need to remove the third member to access the seals. David has replaced his a couple of times. Hopefully he'll post up a "how to" and the contact info for the seal supplier.:iceslolan

Jim,

The axle seals are from colman #150-403 they are 18.00 per side. I don't know the hub seal # but they have a CR #on them. You should be able to get them at your local bearing supply store.

As far as tips to install I have several but don't know if they worked until I test them at the next track event.

Easy way to remove the seal. Loosen the three allen screws holding the seal together than slide the axle back in the tube and used it as a ram to knock the seal into the rearend housing.

I distroyed a few seals tring to install them so tip # 2 would be buy several sets untill you get the hang of it.

Tip # 3. when puting the seal together do not tighten the allen bolts and trim the execes rubber off the outside of the seal so it slides into the axle tube with a small about of effort. I used a block of wood to install mine. After getting the seal into the tube tighten the three allen bolts. Tighten the allen bolts will squeeze the rubber seal so it will seal to the inside of the axle tube.

I know this sounds strange but when you get the first seal out it will all make scense.

David

part # change coleman 150-503

Thanks for all your input.The reseal is complete and your direction were excellent. The biggest challange was cleaning the tubes and recoating to prevent rust Thanks

Question... if gear oil supposed to flow all the way down the axle tube? Last year I had a tiny drip from the left hub and had it fixed. Tech said it was normal and he just had to re seal the end where the hub attaches. I'm curious if this is truly an indication that the innter seals are shot. I'm trying to understand how it all goes together. Anyone have pictures or an exploded diagram?

It's my understanding that it's a standard Ford 9" in these cars... assuming that's the case then the mechanic who fixed her up last year has had lots and lots of experience with those.

Thanks,
Brian

Jim,
Glad I could help.

Brian,

To answer your question it is yes and no. This is a standard 9 in. diff housing and chunk but the axles and hubs are not standard. The axles are floating. There is a tube inside the axle tube were the seal is installed. Oil should not be in this tube inner tube. If oil is is in the tube than the seal is leaking. Having said that these seals do not work very well so if you have a small amount of oil in the tube its ok. The reason you do not want oil in the tube is because the wheel bearings run in grease like the front wheel bearings. If the hot oil gets to the outer wheel bearings the oil will melt the grease and you will have bearing failure. The only seal on the outer hub is a paper gasket. So if you have oil leaking out of your hubs it is a mixture of diff oil and melted grease. Not good.

David

when I talked to gary jones last year he found a "new" set of seals that are better than the ones we have been using.

Speedway has them in there catolog. Gator A/C bought some maybe he will chim in with the part number.

David

Speedway has them in there catolog. Gator A/C bought some maybe he will chim in with the part number.

David

When I opened my diff I found I already had the upgraded seals. They are made by Seals it. http://www.sealsit.com/axlehub.asp Mine had the red ones in it. You can buy replacement rubber seals for them when needed. I suggest pulling the chunk out and seeing what's in there. You might even find a rolled up dish cloth stuffed in there, who knows.:spit:

Got the new tripple seals from Panoz... might as well have it redone while she's down for the mods right now.

Jim,
Glad I could help.

Brian,

To answer your question it is yes and no. This is a standard 9 in. diff housing and chunk but the axles and hubs are not standard. The axles are floating. There is a tube inside the axle tube were the seal is installed. Oil should not be in this tube inner tube. If oil is is in the tube than the seal is leaking. Having said that these seals do not work very well so if you have a small amount of oil in the tube its ok. The reason you do not want oil in the tube is because the wheel bearings run in grease like the front wheel bearings. If the hot oil gets to the outer wheel bearings the oil will melt the grease and you will have bearing failure. The only seal on the outer hub is a paper gasket. So if you have oil leaking out of your hubs it is a mixture of diff oil and melted grease. Not good.

David

_____________________
resurrecting an old post:

OK, I have a small amount of "fluid" coming from my rear passenger hub - after reading above, it seems as if I need to replace the seals on the hub(s) as well as the Diff seals - is this correct?

thanks
Devin.

Devin,

You are correct. The seals at the end of the axle tubes are grease seals for the bearings and the diff seals are inside the axle tube next to the gear set. Gary Jones is using a different seal than the one I posted earlier in this post. I believe he got them from Coleman.

I am doing a winter tear down as well and replacing all seals and bearings and will post all part numbers later.

David

Winter tear down? HA. Down here we run all winter and do a summer tear down.

_____________________
resurrecting an old post:

OK, I have a small amount of "fluid" coming from my rear passenger hub - after reading above, it seems as if I need to replace the seals on the hub(s) as well as the Diff seals - is this correct?

thanks
Devin.


If you follow David's instructions above you will have no problems. I did it and I could screw up a one car funeral. The only thing I did different was to coat the inside of the tube with a rust inhibitor.

I just reread this post and I have two more tip to install the axles seals. Instead of trimming the rubber off the outside of the seal I made a ring compressor ( like a piston ring compressor) out of .010 shim stock and a hose clamp. Installed the seal in the tube and taped it with a block of wood. They slid right in. Gary Jones gave me a tip. He said to pack grease inside the seals. He said this will help reduce heat.

David

where did you purchase the HUB seals, I was going to call Coleman in the AM to try and tell them what I need..... diff, I found from your ealier post

thanks

I think I got them from Speedway.

this is what Coleman advised me to order - so, I did.

150-503 Seal, 2 5/8 Diameter, 3 Pcs.
19753 Seal, Impala Hub -- front
CR-23755 Seal, Hub -- rear

We shall see.

I would pull the chunk and see what you have in there before ordering anything. You may have the newer style "Seals It" seals.

OK - Chunk is out and seals are shot - also wondering how in the heck I am supposed to put the metal seals back in.
(Pictures of the aftermath):

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/Differential/SDC12763%20%5b1280x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/Differential/SDC12766%20%5b1280x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/Differential/SDC12768%20%5b1280x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/Differential/SDC12769%20%5b1280x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/Differential/SDC12772%20%5b1280x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/Differential/SDC12773%20%5b1280x768%5d.JPG

http://dcazin.c4-motorsports.com/LS1/Differential/SDC12775%20%5b1280x768%5d.JPG

man, that is some serious carnage!

Devin, PM sent.

Eric I bet your seals look just like Devins.

David

Devin, PM sent.

Eric I bet your seals look just like Devins.

David

Probably, Now, I had paid gary Jones to swap mine out when i bought the car, so mine may look a LITTLE better, but probably not much

Devin, this would be a good time to swap in some 3.90 gears ;-)

Devin, this would be a good time to swap in some 3.90 gears ;-)

That's a good idea.... Ill start shopping this AM. :cool:

Whilst we are on this topic - I've been reviewing several gear oils and weights. The redLine shockproof looks like the ticket, however, I'm not entirely sure if it's too much and should stick with the 75w90..

thoughts, comments, laughter, etc....

Got the new tripple seals from Panoz... might as well have it redone while she's down for the mods right now.

How did the new seals work? I'm looking at purchasing a used 2006 GTS and there's small leaks on each end of the diff tubes and going on to the rear rotors. Owner's mechanic says this is normal??? Thanks

Not only is it not normal, it's not safe.
The actual tube seals are easy to remove and install. Call Panoz, they can save you a lot of time by supplying the correct seals and giving guidance.

Thanks for the quick reply. According to Panoz tech folks the diff tubes are supposed to be dry.

a quick note to the install. Use 320-400 grit sand paper to lightly remove the sharp edges on the axle splines. They can damage the seal when the axles are slid through the seals.

These are the seals that the GTS comes with and the ones you want to use.

http://www.keysermanufacturing.com/search?Keyword=&PartNumber=&BrandLabel=&PartNumber=1008541