2000 Intrigue rear strut replacement

My 2000 Intrigue GLS needs a replacement RR strut. The car lately started bouncing a lot when I hit a bump. Jouncing the RR up and down feels like springs and no shocks. LR feels a little better. It is not leaking like the RR, but I plan to replace both, unless I hear otherwise from those with experience.

I've got the "soft ride" option (FE1, I think). Here's my questions:

1. Do I have to get "soft ride" replacement rear struts, either because of actual physical differences, like bolt holes and attachment points, or (if not that) because the ride is tuned for "soft ride"? Maybe the front suspension is part of "soft ride" tuning, and the rears need to stay "soft ride" for balance?

2. Rockauto's many choices kind of confuse me, but the soft ride option is there. Locally, Advance Auto has Monroe and KYB; NAPA has (I guess) NAPA. Both places have decent prices, but neither knows or shows anything about "soft ride", so I assume their offerings are not "soft ride". Rockauto had a great closeout price on Gabriel struts. Any advice on brand names?

3. It looks like the "strut mount" at the upper end seems to be an optional part for this job. I plan to include them, and also want to replace ALL associated parts, and would hate to not have all the pieces after jacking the car up. Any parts other than the "strut assembly" itself and the "strut mount" that I need?

4. I'm assuming identical parts (struts & mounts) for both LR and RR. That's where Rockauto was confusing -- they seemed to refer to RR, etc.

5. Do the springs usually get reused?

6. Any tips on the job? I will have the use of a spring compressor.
Thanks for any suggestions.

I just replaced all four struts in my 99 about 2 months ago. I went with the OEM Gabriel struts. You dont need new mounts, all you need is what you get in the box. You have to reuse the springs and you'll also need an impact to get the nuts on and off. The job itself wasnt too bad, I think it took my Dad and I about 45 min to an hour to do all four. I would have someone help you as well, it will make your job that much easier. You might also want some PB Blaster to help loosen up some of the bolts. Other than that it was a pretty easy, straight forward job, nothing overly complicated.

I would really like to know, if anyone can tell me, whether or not I need to have "soft ride" replacement struts, or whether other types will be OK. I've got a lot more choices if the car does not have to get the "soft ride" type struts. On the other hand, if it does, I need to get just those. The dealer doesn't know, but says he can only get the "soft ride" type in any case (at top dollar, of course). Can anyone say for sure? Thanks.

gmpartsdirect.com

I believe KYBs are adjustable. (best option in my opinion)

Intrigues never had anything but the FE1 soft ride suspension as far as I know, even the Autobahn package was just performance tires and bigger brakes.

Should be able to get whatever you want to get, it might make the car ride a little rougher, but it should handle and brake better.

My 2000 Intrigue GLS needs a replacement RR strut. The car lately started bouncing a lot when I hit a bump. Jouncing the RR up and down feels like springs and no shocks. LR feels a little better. It is not leaking like the RR, but I plan to replace both, unless I hear otherwise from those with experience.

I've got the "soft ride" option (FE1, I think). Here's my questions:

1. Do I have to get "soft ride" replacement rear struts, either because of actual physical differences, like bolt holes and attachment points, or (if not that) because the ride is tuned for "soft ride"? Maybe the front suspension is part of "soft ride" tuning, and the rears need to stay "soft ride" for balance?

2. Rockauto's many choices kind of confuse me, but the soft ride option is there. Locally, Advance Auto has Monroe and KYB; NAPA has (I guess) NAPA. Both places have decent prices, but neither knows or shows anything about "soft ride", so I assume their offerings are not "soft ride". Rockauto had a great closeout price on Gabriel struts. Any advice on brand names?

3. It looks like the "strut mount" at the upper end seems to be an optional part for this job. I plan to include them, and also want to replace ALL associated parts, and would hate to not have all the pieces after jacking the car up. Any parts other than the "strut assembly" itself and the "strut mount" that I need?

4. I'm assuming identical parts (struts & mounts) for both LR and RR. That's where Rockauto was confusing -- they seemed to refer to RR, etc.

5. Do the springs usually get reused?

6. Any tips on the job? I will have the use of a spring compressor.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Yeah, get your struts from auto parts store about $60.00 each and the upper
mounts are around $120.00 they are usually bad (they knock when hitting bumps) and thats all. You need spring compressor and a little common sense....Good Luck

Well, to wind up this thread, on Wed, 5/28, I installed two Monroe Sensa-Tracs, on sale at Rockauto for $30 apiece (closeout). I'm getting old, so it took me most of the day, but it went well. Getting the car blocked up, one side at a time, and compressing the springs with the compressor both took some time. The only tiny issue with the replacement struts was that they didn't have a small locator hole for the lower rubber pad, as the original struts did. No real problem; I just snipped off the rubber tip. Could have drilled a hole too, I guess.
Suggestions for next time: First, I would also order what Rockauto called the "Strut Mate bearing plate" for each strut. The kit is only $16 per side, and includes several parts. Since I hadn't ordered them, I had to remove & reuse a couple of parts that were rusted. The main problem here was a (roughly 2") bushing spacer that fits inside the bearing plate, under the rod nut and top cup washer. I got the old ones off for reuse, but they were pretty rusty; new ones would have been better, and appear to be included in the kit.
Second, I also should have had a 21mm open/box wrench for the rod nut, and a Torx T40 for the top of the rod (maybe standard, or maybe just for these Sensa-tracs). I now own both. They would have made tightening the rod nut, while holding the rod from rotating, a lot easier. You don't want to grip the rod itself, and maybe burr it with a vice-grip or channellock.
The right rear strut was completely bad, no resistance at all. The left seemed to be just normally worn (low resistance). Can't complain after 160K miles. I'd better think about the fronts.

Here in Toronto you can buy a complete set with springs and strut as a unit, just bolt off and bolt on, no need to remove the springs. much safer and much better then tring to reuse the old rusty springs.

Here in Toronto you can buy a complete set with springs and strut as a unit, just bolt off and bolt on, no need to remove the springs. much safer and much better then tring to reuse the old rusty springs.

hey what store did you get the complete set at? my car is riding like a box of bricks these days and i wanna re do all the shocks/struts

i think monroe quick-strut can do that, but much more expensive than strut replacement only

to check shocks by pressing and get some ideas about soft or stiff

hey what store did you get the complete set at? my car is riding like a box of bricks these days and i wanna re do all the shocks/struts

Canadian Tire is advertising the units, I have not bought, just saw the advert. If I did need to replace this is the way I would go much safer.

As a side note I read on another forum where a professional mechanic removed old struts from a chry. car and as he was carring the old struts to the spring compression machine the strut let go due to the rust and almost ripped his arm off. As I said I would not mess around with compressed springs. later

Hey, poda patti !

Just an FYI -- some of the AC Delco units at Rockauto indicate "ready mount". Before I ordered, I emailed Rockauto, and they confirmed that this indicates the complete unit (with spring). This is shown only for the rear units. They are $195.79 each. Only the left side indicates "ready mount", but since the right side is also $195.79, I assume it too is "ready mount".
I did not see the same for the front units, but one of the AC Delco offerings for front units was $250 each. Maybe that is a complete unit (no right or left distinction). From the price, it ought to be.
Rockauto was very helpful with their email replies to me, and answered my questions. That's one reason I've started buying from them.
Obviously, it is easier to replace entire strut units and not mess with a spring compressor. The other side of that coin is that I got both my rear struts replaced for $80 total, including shipping, and a back-breaking day. That's always the tradeoff. And I learned enough and now have a few tools to make it easier the next time -- I hope.

yeah, autorock is great. they are patient and professional with questions, and the price is good

I just picked up a pair of Gabriel ReadyMount rear struts for my wife's '98 Intrigue. $170.99 each at AutoZone here in Massachusetts. Anyone happen to know the torque specs for the top 3 (small) and bottom 2 (really big) bolts on these babies? The one-page instructions say "refer to Original Equipment service manual" which I don't have.

I replaced all 4 struts this past weekend with KYB GR2's (and top bearings) and I'm really satisfied with the restored ride. My Intrigue has 110K on it and the OE struts were all shot. I don't have the torque specs for the struts, I just used the old "feels about right".
While I was at it I restored the traction control by changing both rear bearing hubs due to a loss of signal from the left rear hub.

I bought all parts from Rock Auto on line and was impressed with the price and service, they'll continue to get my business.

Roger -
My 2000 Intrigue manual indicates the following (all in lb. ft.).
Page 3-26 (front): front suspension strut to body mount nuts - 24; front suspension strut mount nut - 52; front suspension strut to steering knuckle bolts - 90.
Page 3-54 (rear): rear suspension strut shaft nut - 55; strut mount to body nuts - 33; strut to knuckle nuts - 82.
HTH.