2000 Grand Prix Stalling

Hi there

I really hope someone can help me here!

I am also having problems with my 2000 Grand Prix stalling. It also stalls occasionally while in drive, but it usually cuts out when I am stopped or about to stop. When this happens, I usually can get it going again within a few minutes by turning it completely off, then turning my keys ever so slightly to get the dash lit up, wait a minute or two, then it starts. If it is raining outside though forget it - it won't start up again for a long time after it has stalled.

Is the crank shaft position sensor the first thing I should get replaced? Anything else?

-Pat

Hi there

I really hope someone can help me here!

I am also having problems with my 2000 Grand Prix stalling. It also stalls occasionally while in drive, but it usually cuts out when I am stopped or about to stop. When this happens, I usually can get it going again within a few minutes by turning it completely off, then turning my keys ever so slightly to get the dash lit up, wait a minute or two, then it starts. If it is raining outside though forget it - it won't start up again for a long time after it has stalled.

Is the crank shaft position sensor the first thing I should get replaced? Anything else?

-Pat

Welcome to AF.

Your post has been moved to it's own thread due to the age of the thread resurrected.

Also, it would help to post your mileage and engine size or model.

Hi again

It is a 3800 Series II engine (V6) and has 180000 kms (112000 mi).

-Pat

Based on your description hard to say whether the crank position sensor is your issue. Do you get a SES/CEL light? Any other indications at stall? Does the tach dip, drop to zero or act erratic right before the stall and after stall do you get a TRAC OFF light?

Since moisture may be an issue you can remove the electrical connector to the crank position sensor and check for water intrusion. Also, look for corrosion. You can clean the connector plug and the jack at the sensor with electrical contact cleaner. Let dry then reconnect.

Another possibility is an engine vacuum leak.

Hi there

I really hope someone can help me here!

I am also having problems with my 2000 Grand Prix stalling. It also stalls occasionally while in drive, but it usually cuts out when I am stopped or about to stop. When this happens, I usually can get it going again within a few minutes by turning it completely off, then turning my keys ever so slightly to get the dash lit up, wait a minute or two, then it starts. If it is raining outside though forget it - it won't start up again for a long time after it has stalled.

Is the crank shaft position sensor the first thing I should get replaced? Anything else?

-Pat

What you need to do is get the vehicle scanned, not all codes trip the SES light. I would start there first and foremost and then move to replacing parts.

Right before the stall the tac drops to 0 and the "Trac Off" light/warning does illuminate!

What you need to do is get the vehicle scanned, not all codes trip the SES light. I would start there first and foremost and then move to replacing parts.

True, but not all problems trip the SES light either. Crank position sensor for one.

To the original poster, replace your CPS. those are classic symptoms "tach drops and trac off light" of a flaky Crank Position Sensor. Mine went just like that at about 80,000 miles. Replaced it first stall, and havnt had a problem since.

There is a tech article in the tips and maintenance section that helped me out tremendously. With it, the install only took me 1-1.5 hours, but I was pretty meticulous with everything.

And do yourself a favor so you dont have to do it again, and install only a quality AC Delco CPS sensor. Mine was only 38 bucks from the dealership.

To the original poster, replace your CPS. those are classic symptoms "tach drops and trac off light" of a flaky Crank Position Sensor. Mine went just like that at about 80,000 miles. Replaced it first stall, and havnt had a problem since.

Now we're getting someplace. :iagree:

It has definitely stalled after the tac-dip-to-zero/Trac-off AND NOW I have noticed it stalls in another situation. Maybe they are related?

When driving, and this happens about once a week or even twice a week now, I will feel the lack of power from when I am stepping on the gas pedal, and then I look at my dash and the battery light lights up, and so does the oil light. That I am thinking means that the car has stalled since at the same time my steering wheel siezes up and I am forced to immediately pull over to the side of the road (dangerous!). So what I do is I turn the car off (although it is likely off at this point anyway), wait a few seconds, turn the key over so my dash lights up, but I don't turn the key over the full way to start it. I then wait about a minute, then I start up the car, and it starts! This is all with the engine light on, which has been on for a couple of weeks now since my last major stall. (My mechanic BTW ran the computer scanner through the engine and couldn't understand why the engine light was on!!!!)

What the heck do you think is going on? :banghead:

Guys thanks so much for your help so far.

That is one of the issues when the crank position sensor acts up. Dangerous driving situation when the car stalls. I'd get the crank sensor replaced. The mechanic hopefully shouldn't charge that much. The part runs around $50 and you're looking at around 2.0 hours labor.

Gentlemen

Thanks SO MUCH for the advice about what should get fixed. Before getting the crankshaft sensor replaced i was stalling a few times per week, and since the repairs almost 4 weeks ago, NO STALLING! I am keeping my fingers crossed!

Again, thanks a TONNE!

Pat

My 98 has been doing this for sometime as well, same symptoms, stalling, tach dropping to zero and TCS light comming on, after reading this post im convinced its also the sensor, where is this located on the engine?

i have no clue where it goes (I am not a car techie at all). It was an AC Delco part (as per suggested) and it cost about 75 bucks CDN. Labour was about an hour (about 90 bucks CDN - depends on who you go to). I went to a GM Dealership to get it done just so that this serious problem was looked at by a trained GM Technician.

Hope this helps.

Pat

We have a post at our Tips & Maintenance forum that covers exact location and the replacement procedure of the crank position sensor.

Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=652664)

ah good pics, thanks