Hitching my Trans Am "Truck"

Well, I can't seem to find any information anywhere about putting a hitch on a Trans Am, so I am asking for advice from several forums.

So I'll start off with the basics of what I'm working with. I have a 79 Trans Am. I bought it garaged with the body in mint condition. The frame underneath is reinforced (I believe you would call it a sway bar, each side is reinforced with a welded steel bar.)

The engine is a 455 Oldsmobile Big Block. It has a 400 3 speed automatic transmission. It's a dual exhaust engine but I have to re-build the exhaust anyhow so that COULD in theory change.

The engine is a 68-72 according to the numbers and my local library. The
engine is pushing roughly 380 ft lbs of torque and 250 hp (ISH.) It's a HIGH torque engine and that's why I consider my trans am my "truck". It just happens to look really sweet and handle quite well for a truck.

I'm a mason (among other things) and I NEED transportation that can haul at the very least a moderate load. I COULD very easily part out everything I've got on e-bay and build myself a REAL truck, but I don't want to.

I (sadly) got into a front end collision because of a nasty set of factors, half of which were plainly my fault. I can and WILL restore her to her former glory and actually have gotten a second 79 Trans Am to help out with the whole project.

The ONLY true issue I have at the moment is HOW will I attach a hitch to my Trans Am?? There are hitches sold online, and they vary from clip on THINGS to screw and bolt versions.

Looking at the backside of my Trans Am, I believe I have TWO options.

1. Drill my gorgeous mint trunk, washer-plate and secure a hitch with BOLTS
or
2. Attach a hitch somehow to the rear suspension - which appears to be the ONLY spot securely attached to the frame that could POSSIBLY deal with the stress of a hitch.

I'm trying to get a game plan down because before I do anything else I'd like to secure a hitch and have my frame/body perfect before I tackle the engine/electrical components. I'm going to re-build my dash as well (have doubles of EVERYTHING and a completely mint interior.) I will gladly post pictures on request if it would help explain something I fouled up.

If you have any suggestions as far as how to securely and safely attach a hitch to my 79 Trans Am, PLEASE share the wealth!

You do not have to engineer your own hitch mounting points.

Any new hitch will come with instructions and all attachment hardware. Read them and follow them!
They are designed to attach in a specific way to your car. Any deviation from the instructions is risky. All hitches are bolt - on, regardless of capacity.

Most hitches made for American cars usually use existing holes or slots. so drilling is kept to a minimum. The hitch should use the existing frame rail / torque box that locates the rear spring shackles. Do not drill into the trunk floor to locate the hitch. The structure there is not strong enough.

Get the biggest hitch you can. I would recommend a receiver style, a class 2 or 3 hitch should be available. Your car should be good for towing a trailer up to 2000 lbs.

Avoid the cheapo fixed-tongue type of hitch. They look ugly, are vulnerable to damage and often are only rated for 1000 lbs.

Most places that sell hitches will install it for minimal extra money. This may be the best and safest way if you have never installed one before.

First off, thank you kindly for your straightforward and clearly informative reply :-)

Part of me can't really believe I mananged to look past the frame rail that really does go to the end of my car. It's obvious to me now that it's the ONLY possibility for attaching my hitch.

Now my question is.. would it be possible (being as I'm basically torn down to the bare frame atm) for me to reinforce my frame (possibly adding some weight to my car as a whole) to install a hitch capable of towing 3500 lbs??

I do believe if I had the same engine in a full size truck the towing capacity should be above that, and the idea of reinforcing my mint frame seems like a very real POSSIBILITY. Is this feasible or simply a pipe dream?

If I were building a complete chimney it would take several days and thus several trips hauling materials every day in incriments. That makes a 2,000 lb towing capacity ACCEPTABLE. But being as I am at the stage I am and have so much work to do on the project, I would rather go the extra mile to make a 2,000-2,500 lb load acceptable and not pushing my luck.

Thank you for your time and consideration.

I had considered asking you if you were planning to haul masonry supplies around.
I know from experience it does not take much stone etc to add up to 2000+ lbs.

As you say, engine power is more than adequate for pulling big loads. But the rest of your car likely does not have the structural strength to safely haul 2500 lbs over the long run, for several reasons.

It was designed for modest weight, of 4 people plus a bit of luggage that can fit into the small trunk. It does not have the extra strength to cope with the stress of a 2500 lb load.

Even if you were to reinforce the hitch mount points, the F-bodies had structural issues of their own, and are known for flexing body shells, even without towing. The mount points for the front sub frame are somewhat weak, as is the mid-body structure. Plenty of 2nd generation F-bodies develop metal fatigue cracks on the roof when driven hard, especially the T-roof versions. The extra stress of a heavy load would only make these risks worse.

Even without the structural concerns, towing a 2500 lb load in a car as light and short as a Trans Am would be spooky. Sure the car can easily get a 2500 lb load moving but the car would have limited ability to stop, turn and control such a heavy load. Any emergency situation would put you at greatly increased risk for an accident.
This would certainly place your valuable T/A at risk, and would risk your life and others.
Also, you may face insurance, legal and liability problems if you have an accident with a deliberatly overloaded tow vehicle, even if you did not cause an accident.

If you must tow 2500 lb, go for a double-axle trailer, with brakes. Such a trailer is easier to stop and control than a single axle trailer. Also, get an electric brake controller for the car. These controllers allow you to apply the trailer brakes without applying the car brake This is helpful in emergencies or for times when the trailer may feel like it is shaking the car around too much.

Frankly, the cost for such a trailer plus the cost of setting your T/A up to tow would pay for a basic, used pick-up truck, which IMHO would be a better solution.

Righteous.