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New Engine!


danf1
04-30-2008, 12:07 PM
For those of you that have commented on my hydrolock problem thanks a bunch. My incompetent mechanic knew less than me about this problem, so in turn I'm in need of a new engine (with labor and all that crap it's easier to just do this). Does anyone know of where i can buy a rebuilt one that's around the Washington DC area? maybe even a few states over..


and with that.. how hard is it to do a motor replacement on an eclipse? i've never done it and would imagine i need more tools than what i have.. any suggestions?

david-b
04-30-2008, 12:12 PM
It's not too bad. If you're not competent about doing it, take it in to a shop. Will cost though. Search ebay for motors. Can get them pretty cheap.

EDIT for more info...

You'll need an engine hoist.
You're working with the tranny then also which can be a pain if you don't know what you're doing. Whether you leave it in or take it out also... it's a pain.
I would recommend a shop doing it if you never have (and have no will to do it a second time) as it can be hard, but you will pay. Probably close to $1g just in labor.

JoeShmoe
04-30-2008, 12:31 PM
ebay would be the cheaper option for rebuilt. Or you could pick one up from a junkyard but you wouldn't know if it were still good.

Thor06
04-30-2008, 01:18 PM
Check out craigslist and the classifieds on dsmtuners and dsmtrader.

Black99GST
04-30-2008, 03:20 PM
did you pull off the oil pan and asses the damage first? i would be 100% SURE before i went off and bought a new engine... thats just me though... :2cents: replacing rings + Rods > replacing engine

gthompson97
04-30-2008, 03:58 PM
Depending on how mechanical you are, it can take 4-5 hours, or a couple days. I can have the motor out and a different one back in in about 4 if I work steady. And I don't have a lift, so you don't NEED one, but it definitely makes things easier when you use one.

If you are sure you can do this, I'd go for it. R&R on an engine is a very big learning experience and my first one helped me learn so much. On the other hand, if you mess something up, it's your fault and it'll cost you to fix the mistake.

danf1
05-01-2008, 11:32 PM
ok so far i'm like half way done.. i have to pull the axle and get the transaxle out of there.. someone please tell me how to get to that friggin bolt for the battery holder.. i got one out.. but the other one, that's right by the back up light sensor/switch is impossible to get to with a ratchet or a standard wrentch.. some one pleeease help

gthompson97
05-02-2008, 12:08 AM
Show me a picture of what bolt you're talking about and i'll tell you exactly how to get it out.

danf1
05-02-2008, 12:43 AM
will do.. and also.. on the engine there is ONE hook to attach the hoist.. by the oil filler cap.. where should i attach the other chain?

danf1
05-02-2008, 12:50 AM
Here's the bolt i'm having a problem with
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/bobed/BOLT2.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/bobed/BOLT.jpg

gthompson97
05-02-2008, 01:04 PM
Can you get on it with a swivel-head ratchet, or a swivel socket? IIRC, last time I pulled my tranny, I didn't pull out that bracket, I just worked around it. As for the motor lift, there should be one on the back by the intake manifold, and then the other one is on the other corner of the motor connected to two exhaust manifold studs. In the pictures, I see you're missing that part, you might just have to fab up something for that.

david-b
05-02-2008, 01:09 PM
Looks like he's missing it because the manifold is off. Just take the 2 bolts that the mount hooks into and tighten it back up there.

Just read the rest... you said it wasn't there to begin with? Goto the hardware store and find a piece of metal with a big hole in it and then drill out smaller ones for the bolts.

danf1
05-02-2008, 02:43 PM
guh now i'm having trouble taking out my drive axles.. any ideas? hanes fails to note that there are 4 bolts behind the hub that need to get out but i can't get to them either.. the disc isnt coming off either.. so i think i'm gonna have to take the control arm off and just work from there i think

SilvrEclipse
05-02-2008, 02:49 PM
Make sure you pull the speed sensor out before you pull the axles out. I think it will break the speed gear if you dont. Also I beleive I unbolted the lower control arm when I pulled my axles out.

What bolts are you trying to get out, the ones that hold the caliper and bracket on? These have to come off before the rotor will, also your rotor may be rusted on the hub.

david-b
05-02-2008, 03:17 PM
What bolts are you trying to get out, the ones that hold the caliper and bracket on? These have to come off before the rotor will, also your rotor may be rusted on the hub.

Easy fix for the rotors... take a mallet and pound away at it. Works everytime for me!

danf1
05-02-2008, 10:17 PM
update on this amateur engine replacement segment....

couldnt get the axles out at all.. idk why.. i ended up taking all the control arms and shit off but still can't seem to get the axle off.. any ideas? also.. there is ONE bold on the transaxle whatever case.. that is under the intake manifold and above the front right axle.. that is IMPOSSIBLE to get to.. from my viewpoint.. but obviously it's not.. any help? i'll post pictures and stuff after i take a shower .. i'm hella filthy.. also.. how to relieve fuel presure when the engine doesnt work?

thanks a bunch

gthompson97
05-03-2008, 05:06 AM
The axles have a "snap-ring" on them if that's what's holding them on. I just take a pry bar and pry them off using the casing of the axle and the casing of the tranny. Sometimes you have to really pry on them to get them off, but don't be worried to use some force, they'll eventually come. But becareful when you take them out, have a rag handy, as all the tranny fluid will drain out of the axle holes until you get them plugged up.
As for the fuel pressure, don't worry about it. I've never relieved it and I've swapped about 6 motors out of my RS alone. I usually just crack the line that I'm removing and let it leak out until the pressure is gone. You'll have some residue afterwards, but it's nothing to worry about.

danf1
05-03-2008, 09:14 AM
what if i drop the tranny with both axles attached? i've cleared the way on both sides and under the tranny.. it was sort of my last resort last night.. but i still haven't dropped it cuz of that one bolt.. will it be bad if i leave the axles on?

SilvrEclipse
05-03-2008, 10:23 AM
You could drop the tranny with the axles but Im sure it would kinda be a pain with them flopping everywhere. I would drain the fluid in the tranny and replace it also.

danf1
05-03-2008, 10:26 AM
fluid is already drained.. i'm taking the intake manifold out to get to that dreaded bolt i was having a problem with =) you guys are a HUGE help you dont know how thankful i am

danf1
05-03-2008, 04:39 PM
thanks to all of you guys.. especially gthompson.....

BAM!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/bobed/woah.jpg

danf1
05-03-2008, 04:40 PM
i will be posting a new thread on how to put the engine back in.. as the problems occur (they always do)

By the way, how do you take the clutch out from the driveplate.. or whatever that round spinny gear is? (technical terms ofcourse)

SilvrEclipse
05-03-2008, 04:57 PM
The clutch is a modular clutch, there should be four bolts on the back of the drive plate that hold it on.

danf1
05-03-2008, 05:00 PM
i know but how would you get it out without the plate turning? i dont have an impact wrentch =\

gthompson97
05-03-2008, 06:39 PM
When I did it with the motor/tranny still in the car, I used a prybar in the starter hole to hold the flywheel from turning. You may bend up the steel "gasket" between the two a bit, but it easily straightens out with a few swings with a deadblow hammer.

danf1
05-03-2008, 06:44 PM
When I did it with the motor/tranny still in the car, I used a prybar in the starter hole to hold the flywheel from turning. You may bend up the steel "gasket" between the two a bit, but it easily straightens out with a few swings with a deadblow hammer.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA omg

love the technical terms and precise instructions

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