Hypertech Chip

Hi
I have a '94 Lumina Euro with the 3.1L V-6 in it. I am thinking of installing a Hypertech chip and thermostat to increase performance. Has anyone done this and if so what gain did you notice. Also how difficult was this to install?

What ECM is installed in the vehicle? If it's the old '7730 ECM, the CALPAK can be changed. If it's the newer flash-ROM ECM, you can't do it with a "chip" and even if you could, HyperScrap would be my last choice, right after a stock upgrade (of which there are many). I've burned quite a few PROMs for the older ECMs, and decompiled some of HyperTech's code, and there is not a lot of thought involved in their "upgrade" products.

Visit www.moates.net for a lot more information on the subject.

Thanks for the reply. I am not sure what kind of ECM the car has. How would I locate that information. Also I am loking for quick and simple since I don't have alot of time to learn how to write PROM so if Hypertech is out Ill just live with it the way it is.

I heard Jet Chips is the way to go. 3 things you need before you do so, 1- free flowing exhaust 2- 180 degree thermostat 3- run 91 or higher octane. I suggest you do some research before you make your final decision. Jet Chips claims to give you 23 more hp, and a much better throttle response. I also read somewhere that a few techs did some research and said you only gain between 12 to 15 hp. I tested Superchips piggyback and didnt notice much diff. Ill try jet chips here soon and let you know what I find out. I drive a 92 z34 with a few mods: magnaflow converter, flowmaster 40 muffs, cone intake. with those alone I feel quite a bit more power. Im not one to dyno test, I go by what the car makes me feel. and any tech that is familiar with luminas will tell you, those cars love to breathe. so if you're looking for just a bit more power, do those, then if you're not satisfied, try a performance chip. oh, and dont fall for the hype of the iat bypass, they simply do not work, the car will default the air/fuel ratio so the bypass is pointless. hope this helps...

I heard Jet Chips is the way to go. 3 things you need before you do so, 1- free flowing exhaust 2- 180 degree thermostat 3- run 91 or higher octane. I suggest you do some research before you make your final decision. Jet Chips claims to give you 23 more hp, and a much better throttle response. I also read somewhere that a few techs did some research and said you only gain between 12 to 15 hp. I tested Superchips piggyback and didnt notice much diff. Ill try jet chips here soon and let you know what I find out. I drive a 92 z34 with a few mods: magnaflow converter, flowmaster 40 muffs, cone intake. with those alone I feel quite a bit more power. Im not one to dyno test, I go by what the car makes me feel. and any tech that is familiar with luminas will tell you, those cars love to breathe. so if you're looking for just a bit more power, do those, then if you're not satisfied, try a performance chip. oh, and dont fall for the hype of the iat bypass, they simply do not work, the car will default the air/fuel ratio so the bypass is pointless. hope this helps..



On our 93 Lumina what kind of advantages in gas mileage could I look forward to with free flow exhaust and a modified air intake? What advantage is the 180 thermo over the stock 195 on the 3.1 in the 93 Lumina?

I have no idea what kind of gas mileage changes you would have with your 3.1. Its something you'll have to test yourself. The mods I did were for power only, Im not one for gas mileage, if I was, I'd buy a prius. lol

I have no idea what kind of gas mileage changes you would have with your 3.1. Its something you'll have to test yourself. The mods I did were for power only, Im not one for gas mileage, if I was, I'd buy a prius. lol


Thanks for your response, The reason I asked was I have seen mods like air & exhaust hurt mileage more than help. Our Lumiina runs strong now. I was amazed at after having the A/C fixed how the performance with the A/C ON wasn't effected any noticable amount.
We get 21-27.5 MPG now & I didn't want to lose mileage for a little more performance.
I tell guys that want gas mileage out of 460 Ford engines the same thing you told me. If you want gas mileage buy an economy car.
I was just curious. I may give it a try after we move. I know chevys like air & timing both.
WHAT DO YOU NOTICE WITH THE 180 THERMO? I have read both sides of this idea. Some think they run better others say no to COLD for the computer to function correct, MOST OF THE TIME THAT IS A GAS MILEAGE REDUCER from what I have read on other forums. THANKS

well one thing, i dont really care much about gas mileage, if the car is tuned and working correctly, 25mpg isnt bad for a performance engine. before I took the 195 temp stat out, my car ran at 220 degrees all the time, it made it feel kind of sluggish. with the 180 it definately runs alot cooler and responsive. maybe im crazy "uhhhh yeah", but I feel the difference. not to mention it is a requirement for most performance chips. Ive tested superchips, jet chips is next. free flowing exhaust, 180 temp stat, and use of 91+ octane fuel are the base requirements. as for others opinions, its just that, this is a message board and most people will reply based on experiences they've had themselves, not professional advice. I know alot about my z34 cuz I've done most of the work, so I toss my experiences toward helping others. never take someones word on a message board as gold. find yourself a trusted mechanic and keep with him/her. the more one shop works on your car, the better your chances the repairs are done right, simply cuz they are learning more about your car as you go...

If you disassemble the factory binaries, you'd discover why the car "feels" better with a lower temperature thermostat. The factory fuel map adds fuel at temperatures below the design point. Here is an example of some factory parameters related to coolant temperature:

Closed-Loop Operation Parameters
CTS < 14.7ºC (58ºF) for 75 seconds;
CTS >14.7º (58ºF) and < 40.7º (105ºF) for 51.4 seconds;
CTS >40.7ºC (105ºF) for 12.5 seconds;
O2 >0.699V & O2<1.99V for 10 seconds;

Coolant Temperature Sensor Related Parameters
BLM enabled between 50ºC (122ºF) and 140ºC (284ºF)
Cold spark advance disabled above 56ºC (133ºF)
Hot spark retard begins above 116ºC (240ºF)
Highway Mode spark advance > 59.8ºC (140ºF)
Knock sensor disabled below 66.5ºC (152ºF)
Power enrichment at base A/F ratios > 56ºC (133ºF)
Target IAC idle RPM >80ºC (176ºF)
IAC multiplier at 1.0 (base) > 32ºC (90ºF)
Knock Control enabled > 67ºC (153ºF)
EGR Duty-cycle enabled at 56ºC (133ºF)
EGR Duty-cycle at MAX >80ºC (176ºF)
TCC lockup enabled >50ºC (122ºF)
SHIFT light enabled >50ºC (122ºF)
Diagnostic communication enabled at 70ºC (157ºF)
DTC 43 enabled > 90ºC (194ºF)
Cooling fan #1 enabled at 107ºC (226ºF)
Cooling fan #1 off at 104.7ºC (220.5ºF)
Cooling fan #2 enabled at 115.2ºC (239.5ºF)
Cooling fan #2 off at 110ºC (230ºF)
Cooling fan duty cycle at 100% at 80ºC (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment multiplier at 1.00 below 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment multiplier at 0.75 above 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment multiplier at 0.50 above 104ºC (220ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 25% below 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 40% above 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 50% above 104º C (220ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 60% above 128º C (262ºF)
Fuel limiting factor timer at 217 counts below 80º C (176ºF)
Fuel limiting factor timer at 169 counts above 80º C (176ºF)
Code 13 (oxygen sensor fault) enabled above 70ºC (157ºF)
Code 14 (CTS high fault) enabled above 130ºC (266ºF)
Code 32 (EGR fault) enabled above 30.5ºC (87ºF)
EVAP canister purge enabled above 70.3ºC (158.5ºF)
Hot closed-loop timer enabled above 70.3ºC (158.5ºF)
Rich/Lean O2 offset at 16 counts between 20ºC (68ºF) and 92ºC (197.5ºF)
A/C clutch disabled above 150ºC (302ºF)

Miscellaneous
25.3º maximum allowable knock retard when not in WOT


As you can see, many of the operating parameters depend upon the coolant reaching 176ºF. Particularly interesting is the acceleration enrichment, which starts to fall off above 220ºF. That curve alone, along with the injector PW versus CS is why the engine "feels" better at lower coolant temperatures. It also wastes fuel and doesn't burn as cleanly.

If you take a lesson from NASCAR crews, you'd run the coolant around 235-240ºF, just like they do. That gets the peak power (and therefore, mileage) out of every drop of fuel. They are restricted in displacement, valve lift, and often in throttle bore size, so they have to make the most power from what they are given. That's why they run the temps higher. The factory has been doing this for at least 20 years. Thermodynamics don't take a rest and don't cut any breaks for people who don't understand them. They apply no matter if the car is a 120HP grocery getter or 850 HP normally aspirated race engine.

If you want to go further, you can enable the factory Highway Fuel and Spark modes at cruise. This programming has been included in factory binaries since the '80s, but never enabled because it might affect how the car reacts on the emissions treadmill (too lean means too much NOx) and potentially risks warranty coverage. If you car is out of warranty, and you don;t need to meet emissions requirements, you can enable the HFSM and get over 30 MPG with a 1980s V-8. If your cat converter is robust enough and the EGR is working properly, you'll still meet emissions standards. I can point you to several documented examples of where this has been done with success, including my programming and others'.

If you disassemble the factory binaries, you'd discover why the car "feels" better with a lower temperature thermostat. The factory fuel map adds fuel at temperatures below the design point. Here is an example of some factory parameters related to coolant temperature:

Closed-Loop Operation Parameters
CTS < 14.7ºC (58ºF) for 75 seconds;
CTS >14.7º (58ºF) and < 40.7º (105ºF) for 51.4 seconds;
CTS >40.7ºC (105ºF) for 12.5 seconds;
O2 >0.699V & O2<1.99V for 10 seconds;

Coolant Temperature Sensor Related Parameters
BLM enabled between 50ºC (122ºF) and 140ºC (284ºF)
Cold spark advance disabled above 56ºC (133ºF)
Hot spark retard begins above 116ºC (240ºF)
Highway Mode spark advance > 59.8ºC (140ºF)
Knock sensor disabled below 66.5ºC (152ºF)
Power enrichment at base A/F ratios > 56ºC (133ºF)
Target IAC idle RPM >80ºC (176ºF)
IAC multiplier at 1.0 (base) > 32ºC (90ºF)
Knock Control enabled > 67ºC (153ºF)
EGR Duty-cycle enabled at 56ºC (133ºF)
EGR Duty-cycle at MAX >80ºC (176ºF)
TCC lockup enabled >50ºC (122ºF)
SHIFT light enabled >50ºC (122ºF)
Diagnostic communication enabled at 70ºC (157ºF)
DTC 43 enabled > 90ºC (194ºF)
Cooling fan #1 enabled at 107ºC (226ºF)
Cooling fan #1 off at 104.7ºC (220.5ºF)
Cooling fan #2 enabled at 115.2ºC (239.5ºF)
Cooling fan #2 off at 110ºC (230ºF)
Cooling fan duty cycle at 100% at 80ºC (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment multiplier at 1.00 below 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment multiplier at 0.75 above 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment multiplier at 0.50 above 104ºC (220ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 25% below 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 40% above 80º C (176ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 50% above 104º C (220ºF)
Acceleration enrichment decay factor at 60% above 128º C (262ºF)
Fuel limiting factor timer at 217 counts below 80º C (176ºF)
Fuel limiting factor timer at 169 counts above 80º C (176ºF)
Code 13 (oxygen sensor fault) enabled above 70ºC (157ºF)
Code 14 (CTS high fault) enabled above 130ºC (266ºF)
Code 32 (EGR fault) enabled above 30.5ºC (87ºF)
EVAP canister purge enabled above 70.3ºC (158.5ºF)
Hot closed-loop timer enabled above 70.3ºC (158.5ºF)
Rich/Lean O2 offset at 16 counts between 20ºC (68ºF) and 92ºC (197.5ºF)
A/C clutch disabled above 150ºC (302ºF)

Miscellaneous
25.3º maximum allowable knock retard when not in WOT


As you can see, many of the operating parameters depend upon the coolant reaching 176ºF. Particularly interesting is the acceleration enrichment, which starts to fall off above 220ºF. That curve alone, along with the injector PW versus CS is why the engine "feels" better at lower coolant temperatures. It also wastes fuel and doesn't burn as cleanly.

If you take a lesson from NASCAR crews, you'd run the coolant around 235-240ºF, just like they do. That gets the peak power (and therefore, mileage) out of every drop of fuel. They are restricted in displacement, valve lift, and often in throttle bore size, so they have to make the most power from what they are given. That's why they run the temps higher. The factory has been doing this for at least 20 years. Thermodynamics don't take a rest and don't cut any breaks for people who don't understand them. They apply no matter if the car is a 120HP grocery getter or 850 HP normally aspirated race engine.

If you want to go further, you can enable the factory Highway Fuel and Spark modes at cruise. This programming has been included in factory binaries since the '80s, but never enabled because it might affect how the car reacts on the emissions treadmill (too lean means too much NOx) and potentially risks warranty coverage. If you car is out of warranty, and you don;t need to meet emissions requirements, you can enable the HFSM and get over 30 MPG with a 1980s V-8. If your cat converter is robust enough and the EGR is working properly, you'll still meet emissions standards. I can point you to several documented examples of where this has been done with success, including my programming and others'.

Very interesting info. I'm an old school mechanic. But got out in the mid 80s when the computer cars were coming in. But as time goes on I'm forced to learn about them at least the basics, I do some of ,my own work, but when I can find a good reputable shop with good mechanics & guys, I will let them do much of it. Sometimes I find taking it to a good shop the fix ends up cheaper then if I start chasing it. But I find a lot of very good info on these forums. Great ideas, some insight as to problems, & just a good place to learn from. I have benefited from this & other forums, The Lumina section here is the best I have ever found.
Thanks for your input. I seems to clear up to me why TOO COLD effects mileage. I run a 195 degree thermo, as called for. I forgot some of the GMs called for 220 degree.
Thanks again, Craig

not to be argumentive, but my car runs too sluggish when the 195 is in. the temp sits at 220, the throttle is unresponsive and the pickup is like driving a chevette. i love the way it all feels with the 180 in. yes im probably wasting more gas than i should, but i spend 120/week anyway. driving 48 miles one way to work every day. paying 3.76/gallon and looks to jump even higher soon. which is why i said i dont care too much about mileage, it gets about 25mpg. give or take a few. not to mention im not too shy with the throttle...

I believe that completely. Over 200º, the fuel trims are already starting to go lean. Acceleration is also leaner, and that's probably the difference you are feeling. That can be tuned out with a custom program so you can have all the fun you want and still allow up to 17:1 at cruise/light loads.

where/who do i get a custom program from?

I write my own and reflash (some PCMs) or burn PROMs for the application. For your older ECM, you'd need a PROM and adapted MEMCAL to accept it:

http://72.19.213.157/files/Calpak01.jpg

havent posted in a while. installed the jet chip and everything is just too fun. spending time with my baby. wasting gas but worth it cuz its waaaaay too much fun to drive...
oh, still need new injectors. but its ok. i'll live for a bit...

blue, any way possible you could program one for me? and if so, what is the cost? answer private msg please. ive tried superchips and jet chips so far, gonna try hypercrap next and then "if you can", the chip you can do for me. eventually i'll stick with the one that makes me the happiest...
oh, any suggestions on injectors? was thinking the stock replacement would probably be the best move. but what do I know???

Your '92 should have come with a 16149396 ECM. That is a functional equivalent of the 1227727 ECM (weatherproof version of the 1227730) used in Corvettes and several other W bodies. It used a 256K UV EPROM for program ROM with a 2K backed S-RAM extension for electrically controlled transmission functions. The base engine parameters can be changed without even touching the transmission functions.

The label on the ECM outer case should indicate the service part number, as well as the stock broadcast code for the binary file used for that vehicle tune. The code should be in the format of four alphabetical characters, such as "APAB" or something similar. What code was originally installed?

a little delay there. come to find out, my issues were due to the ecm. have to replace the computer. ill get back with you after i sell one of the kids...

Hey All !!
I have a crazy 1992 Lumina it is complete with a 3.4 Twin duel cam engine with a Hypertech performance chip. When it runs it runs well! Well here it goes, The fuel system holds a steady 40 psi. It cold starts good, when I first got the car it was coding the co2 sensor found that the wire was broke and repaired it this cleared all of the corresponding codes that it created except one Idle speed I adjusted the idle and cleared this. But here is the real kicker once the car warms up to operating temp. it dies as if the key was shut off you can even drive a couple of miles before it quits then bleed the pressure from the fuel rail and the car starts right up but if one attempts to accelerate it will die and the process starts all over again I considered the fuel pressure regulator but one would think that if it was bad it would just simply not function at all rather than part of the time. I have changed the temp Sensor I was told that it is controlled by the ECM and would cause the car to over feed with fuel due to the warm up idle controls in the ECM and cause it to consequently vapor lock the engine so with no codes and this intermittent issue I do not know what to do I even checked to see after it dies and restarted that the exhaust was flowing well and it seemed fine thought maybe a converter issue. By the way the car will set in the shop and idle as long as it has gas and runs like a new engine. I am about ready to take it on a suicide run and it has a new fuel filter just to rule this out. I wonder if the chip or ECM is killing the car??

Leighr,

Welcome to AF.

Please refrain from posting in threads more than 90 days old unless you are the original poster and have an update. Posting in old threads merely confuses those of us who can't read the dates without bifocals.

Wish I had investigated a little further when mine had that little "spell" a while back...1997 3.1 LS, it began with the CEL coming on, then I noticed the idle was just a bit more rough than the normal smooth as glass...but when you trounced it, man did it respond! Felt like I gaided 25 hp or something...

There was a dip in fuel economy, but not terrible.

I don't remember the code numbers it set, but they were "Fuel Trim Rich" and "Coolant Temp Outside Expected Parameters" or something like that...

But the problem went away after a couple of days, and I never found out the cause.

Wouldn't have minded having a switch to flip to put it in that mode on demand :grinyes: