Changing Timing Belt, d16y8

Hi all, quick question, trying to change my timing belt on my civic but having probs.

i have the big tool that holds the middle so you can unscrew the middle bolt, the harmonic damper pulley puller. my question is last night i could not bust it loose at all, it is lefty loosey for the middle bolt right? just like all others? what about the pulley puller part? does that go lefty too or turn it right as you twist middle bolt left?

any tips for getting it loose?

most people say that its impossiable w/out an impact wrench...

people tell me just to take it to a mechanic and they can break it and just put it on loose, not really loose but like hand tight

dont forget to take it back to the shop that lossened it to have it retightened with the impact gun after you put it back together.
Hand tight even with a big wrench and a holder will most often leave you on the side of the road needing a new CRANKSHAFT:bloated: :frog:

got it loose myself and replaced it, but now its making a rubbing sound,

plus gotta figure out why my idle is all fucked up

i'll rev the car in park and when i let off the gas it feels like its gonna almost die, plus it vibrates really badly...

its a mini me swap (d16y7 block, d16y8 head and intake manifold)

Sounds like your timing if off did you time the car?

yea we did but not with the new timing belt, so i think its off, or maybe misfiring

i ordered a helms manual(which i shoulda done a while ago), so i'll have that to reference

if all you did was change the timing belt and now it runs bad its only logical to think you got the belt on wrong.
if you ck the timing and it 20' or so off dont turn the distributor to adjust the timing take the front apart again and see what is wrong.
Rubbing noise not good:frog:

adjusted the idle, it was hella bad, alls fixed now, just gotta get rid of this secondary oxygen heater sensor code my engine is throwing

clear the code then drive the car again if the code comes back you probably still have a problem.
adjusting the idle can compensate for a problem to make it less noticable but it dosnt fix the true problem just covers it up. oh by the way did you change the belt before or after it broke? I have seen a few of those engine bend valves even though they are not supposed to.

:frog:

never broke, car was at 89k miles so i decided to change it since when i take it for inspection there just gonna tell me it needs to be changed and try to charge me $400 to do it


i hope my helms book comes today, i have no clue how to clear that code out

its easy to clear the codes just disconect the battery for 1 min and then reconnect it codes are cleared.
driving the car and seeing if the light comes back on thats the next step if it comes back on in the first 0-10 minutes of driving then you have a "hard" fault.
if all you did was change the timing belt you made a mistake somewhere in the re-install process.
if you pull the top front cover to re-ck the belt position make sure the lower pully mark is on the white line not the red as the red is 18' off from TDC (top dead center).
then use a mirror across the front to get a staight line of site look at the cam gear marks they should be even with the cyld head and the arrow pointing up.
you dont have to pull the whole thing apart again just to ck the belt position, just loosen the valve cover enough to clear and take the top half of the cover off.:frog: