97' Maxima woes...

Ok I have a 97' Maxima, about 88,000. Bought it used and after 4 months started having cooling system problems.

1. First had a leak in a hose. Replaced.
2. Then had a hose bust and bad thermostat. Both replaced.
3. Whining start-up. Mechanic said it was starter drive. Starter replaced.
4. Radiator leak. Replaced.

Now after I got my new radiator I noticed that my car would not put out hot air when I turned the heat on UNLESS I accelerated. Seemed odd, but not urgent to me since winter was coming to an end. But now my car seems to start to overheat a lot, especially with the a/c on. Seems that the coolant burns up fast in the radiator, but when I check the reservoir it doesn't appear to have moved. Like it doesn't draw from the reservoir at all. So I just keep refilling the radiator.

The guy who changed my radiator did a test on it and said there were no external leaks so it must be internal. And they don't do that kind of thing.

Anybody have any idea what's going on? Also, I have a whiny start-up again and intermittent rough idle. Thanks in advance :).

HELLO, u did'nt say, so i would ck. & replace rad cap. if cap is bad the system will not work properly.then pressure test system.if u have/had a internal leak from rad it usually shows up in trans.not sure why rad was replaced??also make sure there's no air in system & cooling fans are working.GOOD LUCK!!

... it must be internal. And they don't do that kind of thing....

"That kind of thing" is called shoddy work. I hope you have not yet blown head gaskets ??? That shop is responsible if u have...

Every time cooling liquids have to be swapped, the system has to be bled. FSM or any maintenance book contains the procedure... check this link for reference: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/8

Bleed: Basically jacking car up, using bleed valve until all bubbles are out. In worst cases I do drive for an hour with one hose ajar until bubbles are out - or even install a system to collect all coolant until no micro bubbles.

They bubbles in the coolant do collect in hard locations and form steam locks, This stops flow. This causes hot spots in heads, warping and burning gaskets.

Dont drive until bleeding has been properly thoroughly done...

I've replaced the rad. cap. Just a wait and see if that works.

I'd also like to make sure the system is bled properly, but I can't seem to find the BV. Can anyone help with that? 97 Maxima GLE. Thanks.

I've replaced the rad. cap. Just a wait and see if that works.

I'd also like to make sure the system is bled properly, but I can't seem to find the BV. Can anyone help with that? 97 Maxima GLE. Thanks.

I checked now the -97 FSM, it is silent about Bleed Valve. Then there is none (!?)... check yourself FSM by checkin the mentioned link pages for FSM MA-12, liquid qty is 9 US qt. If theres no BV to bleed, one has to open ajar a hose located on highest point. Overall, the FSM explanation is very poor.

When filling an emptied system with 9 US qt (explained in FSM), all that amount has to go in ... if system becomes filled as described there then no 'room' for air pockets. If some cant be poured in (=is left out), it is an indication of a air pocket. I guess there is no knowledge how fillup was done?

Only way to verify/measure how much liquid is there, is to take all out, measure, pour back like FSM states. I cant believe filler cap has a say in yhis...

Just stick a funnel in the radiator neck, (they make one that is specially designed to lock tight) fill with fluid, raise the front of the vehicle up and run the engine. Run at 2k rpm's, with the face vents blowing air full speed hot position. Run until heater outlet temp is hot. Then switch to cold air. Run until the cooling fans cycle twice