brake problem
myslon
04-22-2008, 01:44 AM
when press brake pedal the front wheels skid forword
any heelp
any heelp
shorod
04-22-2008, 05:16 PM
Welcome to the forum!
What car are you referring to here? Does it have Antilock Brakes (ABS)? How aggressively are you braking? More details please! Based on what you've posted so far, this could be completely normal for a car without ABS.
-Rod
What car are you referring to here? Does it have Antilock Brakes (ABS)? How aggressively are you braking? More details please! Based on what you've posted so far, this could be completely normal for a car without ABS.
-Rod
Will Help
04-22-2008, 07:04 PM
Could be the rear wheels are not brakeing and throwing all the load on the front brakes. Might need to check this out. Sometimes the self adjusters just don't do their jobs.
myslon
04-23-2008, 01:13 PM
thanks guys u r the best forum
shorod
04-24-2008, 01:17 PM
Yep, and the forum information would be even better if we knew details about the subject vehicle!
Care to share the make, model, and year of your car, as well as if it has antilock brakes?
-Rod
Care to share the make, model, and year of your car, as well as if it has antilock brakes?
-Rod
bigshot82
05-06-2008, 12:01 AM
same problem here... i own a mazda protege '01, non-ABS brakes... rear break used to make a noise... replaced the shoes... noise remains, and front wheels skid forward on hard brakes (never skidded before servicing rear brakes)
- what could be source of the noise?
- when servicing the brakes, are they supposed to to anything more than replacing the shoes?
- what could be source of the noise?
- when servicing the brakes, are they supposed to to anything more than replacing the shoes?
UncleBob
05-06-2008, 12:30 AM
IMO, when you try to do your own brakes, and they are worse than when you started, you have two choices that would be best
a) find a friend that knows what they are doing, to find teh problem, and learn how to do it properly next time (learn by your mistakes with a mentor)
b) immediately take it to a shop and let them solve it.
Learning curves can be very very steep on brake systems when you don't have someone to help you with it in person. Such as....crashing.
a) find a friend that knows what they are doing, to find teh problem, and learn how to do it properly next time (learn by your mistakes with a mentor)
b) immediately take it to a shop and let them solve it.
Learning curves can be very very steep on brake systems when you don't have someone to help you with it in person. Such as....crashing.
bigshot82
05-06-2008, 01:05 AM
it was done at a shop indeed!
Will Help
05-06-2008, 10:18 AM
Sounds like bigshot 82 is stopping with front brakes only.
There are alot of possibilities here.
If you have rear disc, they may have not adjusted out yet to work properley. If you have drum brakes, they need to be adjusted out when put on.
Could be the brakes need to be bled or you have a damaged brake line to the rear. Just repaired a Taurus that had rubber lines from the frame to the rear calipers. One of the rubber lines had a damaged inner liner that closed of the flow of fluid to the caliper. If you have a dual line master cylinder, the rear line cups could be bypassing.
There are alot of possibilities here.
If you have rear disc, they may have not adjusted out yet to work properley. If you have drum brakes, they need to be adjusted out when put on.
Could be the brakes need to be bled or you have a damaged brake line to the rear. Just repaired a Taurus that had rubber lines from the frame to the rear calipers. One of the rubber lines had a damaged inner liner that closed of the flow of fluid to the caliper. If you have a dual line master cylinder, the rear line cups could be bypassing.
bigshot82
05-06-2008, 10:46 AM
Sounds like bigshot 82 is stopping with front brakes only.
There are alot of possibilities here.
If you have rear disc, they may have not adjusted out yet to work properley. If you have drum brakes, they need to be adjusted out when put on.
Could be the brakes need to be bled or you have a damaged brake line to the rear. Just repaired a Taurus that had rubber lines from the frame to the rear calipers. One of the rubber lines had a damaged inner liner that closed of the flow of fluid to the caliper. If you have a dual line master cylinder, the rear line cups could be bypassing.
I got drums... how would you adjust those? I was expecting them to step down on the pedal or something while doing that but they didn't...
There are alot of possibilities here.
If you have rear disc, they may have not adjusted out yet to work properley. If you have drum brakes, they need to be adjusted out when put on.
Could be the brakes need to be bled or you have a damaged brake line to the rear. Just repaired a Taurus that had rubber lines from the frame to the rear calipers. One of the rubber lines had a damaged inner liner that closed of the flow of fluid to the caliper. If you have a dual line master cylinder, the rear line cups could be bypassing.
I got drums... how would you adjust those? I was expecting them to step down on the pedal or something while doing that but they didn't...
Will Help
05-06-2008, 11:07 AM
Drum brakes need to be adjusted when brakes are installed. They have an adjustment wheel that expands the shoes apart. After the shoes are installed, slip the drum on and turn the drum. If it spins freely you need to adjust the adjustment wheel. If you can't get the drum on, you may have to back the adjustment wheel off. This can be done with a brake tool through the backing plate hole which eliminates the need for pulling the drum off and on, or by pulling the drum off and making small adjustments, put drum on, hit brake pedal once or twice to center the shoes and spin the drum. You do this process until you start to here the drum/shoes start to rub a very little bit. The only draw back to this is if there is a ridge worn at the edge of the used drums. That will limit/stop you from adjusting too far as you will have dificulty trying to slip the drum on and off as you get closer to the setting. If this is the case, you should have the drums turned to remove the ridge or purchase new drums. There is also a brake shoe/drum gage that lets you measure across the drum and then adjust the shoes to fit the gage.
The rear brakes then can adjust themselves, typically everytime you brake while backing up.
Front disc never need adjusting. It is automatic with fluid back fill.
The rear brakes then can adjust themselves, typically everytime you brake while backing up.
Front disc never need adjusting. It is automatic with fluid back fill.
bigshot82
05-06-2008, 01:06 PM
thanks... I wish i could find a mechanic as good as you!
J-Ri
05-08-2008, 05:02 PM
There is a "starwheel" adjuster. It has a bunch of teeth on it that are tapered one way with a bar that goes up against the teeth. Depending on the design, it can be on the top or bottom of the assembly. One thing that some "shadetrees" don't do is ensure the lining is clean (eiher by covering it with masking tape prior to assembly, or by cleaning it with brake cleaner afterward). If there is grease on them they won't do much but the pedal will usually feel ok. If the pedal is low, they probably need to be adjusted.
To find a good technician/mechanic, ask around. There are shops with good reputations, and shops with bad reputations; usually neither are a secret. Stop in any top-end parts store in your area and ask one of their delivery people if there is a shop they would reccomend. They go in and out of shops all over town and they see what happens.
To find a good technician/mechanic, ask around. There are shops with good reputations, and shops with bad reputations; usually neither are a secret. Stop in any top-end parts store in your area and ask one of their delivery people if there is a shop they would reccomend. They go in and out of shops all over town and they see what happens.
UncleBob
05-08-2008, 10:10 PM
it was done at a shop indeed!
then why didnt you take it back to them and have them fix their screw up? It would most likely be free
then why didnt you take it back to them and have them fix their screw up? It would most likely be free
Will Help
05-09-2008, 02:43 PM
I guess if you get burned once you don't want to touch that stove again!!!
UncleBob
05-09-2008, 04:17 PM
I guess if you get burned once you don't want to touch that stove again!!!
I won't try to suggest that the shop is the highest in technical skills, nor the highest level of honesty....but you should at least let them look at it. I've never seen a shop that would refuse to even look at a job they messed up. You can judge their explanation after they look at it, and THEN decide if they aren't worth considering
Anyone that has worked in the industry can tell you, mistakes happen. Its just a fact. I have spent many days working for free and thats just how it goes. Even the best tech's make mistakes
I won't try to suggest that the shop is the highest in technical skills, nor the highest level of honesty....but you should at least let them look at it. I've never seen a shop that would refuse to even look at a job they messed up. You can judge their explanation after they look at it, and THEN decide if they aren't worth considering
Anyone that has worked in the industry can tell you, mistakes happen. Its just a fact. I have spent many days working for free and thats just how it goes. Even the best tech's make mistakes
j cAT
05-09-2008, 07:26 PM
thanks guys u r the best forum
i've been waiting for this guy myslon to explain why........my guess is no pad material left........this is when most average vehicle owners have the brakes repaired...
ask any vehicle service center ...
i've been waiting for this guy myslon to explain why........my guess is no pad material left........this is when most average vehicle owners have the brakes repaired...
ask any vehicle service center ...
bigshot82
05-13-2008, 09:08 PM
had it adjusted... still no good... could it be the master cylinder?
Will Help
05-13-2008, 09:32 PM
Back to what I said in # 9 earlier. Could be the master cylinder cups bypassing.
Also ( a long shot ) some cars have a proportioning valve in the line that feeds fluid to the front and rear. If the rear lines were to purge fluid too far ( could happen if rear shoes were not adjusted out after replacement or if you blow a wheel cylinder or line) and this extra flow would drive the proportioning valve past center and shut the fluid flow off to the rear shoes. ( Its kind of like a safety thing to keep you from loosing all your fluid if one side develops a leak. ) These valves can be reset back to center and every thing goes back to normal.
I do not have a manual specific to your vehicle and thus have no way of knowing if this is how your system is set up. Maybe one of our other experts on this vehicle could pipe in some knowledge on this system!!!
Also ( a long shot ) some cars have a proportioning valve in the line that feeds fluid to the front and rear. If the rear lines were to purge fluid too far ( could happen if rear shoes were not adjusted out after replacement or if you blow a wheel cylinder or line) and this extra flow would drive the proportioning valve past center and shut the fluid flow off to the rear shoes. ( Its kind of like a safety thing to keep you from loosing all your fluid if one side develops a leak. ) These valves can be reset back to center and every thing goes back to normal.
I do not have a manual specific to your vehicle and thus have no way of knowing if this is how your system is set up. Maybe one of our other experts on this vehicle could pipe in some knowledge on this system!!!
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